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bf130 flush kit, what is this thing made of? any alternatives?

swade

Contributing Member
My salt water had one that was never removed by the previous owner, it was literally welded to that piece it plugs into...i had to angle grind it off
and replace that piece on the other side. I couldn't tell what it was brass? copper? it seems like it's a dissemiliar metal.

I can't seem to find something like a plastic one, i'll probably rig one up but wondering if anyone has come up with something so i don't have to think about it, that flush port it goes into seems small.
 
Not sure what metal it is made of....looks kind of like brass. Same material most hose nozzels are made of.

http://marine.honda.com/products/accessories/flush-kits

You can probably make one up with some parts from the local hardware store. Unfortunately, I do not know the thread size of the motor side. I think it is pretty standard....I have heard of several customers making their own.


Mike
 
Thanks, yeah i'll rig something up not metal, crazy for what they ask and most of these type things are plastic quick connects. I found a plastic barb fitting that
i think will work, it's tough as the threaded portion of that piece is so far recessed. i dremeled it a bit but got it to thread in, i can probably go from there to a hose quick connect or something.
 
chawk,

Yeah that's exactly what I want to do. Is the flush port in back on the 225 or did you just replumb it? This 130 has the outlet on the front but I guess instead of running
it around the front i could just replumb that internally and run the line out the back instead of the the flush port fitting behind the cowling.
 
That is where the flush port normally is located on the 200 and 225. That stupid design requires you to unscrew a plastic fitting and attach the hose by screwing it on the end of a hose. I just T'ed it, and ran an extension to the transom with a quick connect fitting from a hardware store. Make sure the extension is well secured. On my first try, it came lose from the transom clip, and fell into the running prop, which promptly cut off the quick connect end.

You could probably re-plump it to about anywhere it is convenient. Just make sure the internal hose can't get crimped and doesn't interfer with removing and replacing the engine cover.
 
I made mine out of a bunch of pvc that I picked up at home depot.

What's your guys opinions about using the flush attachment vs. using the ear muffs? I talked with one mechanic and he recommended the ear muffs because he thought you got a more complete flush that way.
 
I've wondered that myself with every motor i've had. I'd think the main thing off of the flush adaptor is that it's done while the engine is still warm. On the 130 that flush port is right at the thermostat so i can't see how there would be much of a difference. I worry about starting up on a hose and water pressure but have never had a problem...but still i wonder if there's a period of impeller wear there. Mine just sits on a lift and it's a pain to flush muff, i'm going to run one internally out the back somehow like chawk.
 
Don't know about the 130, but on the 200 and 225, the flush port pushes the water in the opposite direction of the normal flow from the water pump. So, DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE WITH THE FLUSH PORT HOOKED UP. Also, on the 200 and 225, the muffs do not pump in enough water to properly cool the engine. After a while running on the muffs, you will get an overheat alarm. Best to flush using a test trough or big trash can filled with water.
 
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