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Putting 1410's on my 440's-PCV Question

captain_ed

Regular Contributor
Okay,
I am putting Edelbroch 1410 carbs on my Chrysler 440's this weekend. I read about drilling out the carbs and threading them for a hose barb to hook up the pcv valve. I am nervouse about drilling them. My Chryslers have 8* wedges(plastic). I was thinking about drilling and taping them intead. The hole would be on the fat side of the wedge off to one side (to catch a venturi hole).

Do you guys think that there is a downside to doing it this way???? Any risk of fouling up the carb with this method??? Opinions???

Advice appreciated.:confused:
 
Perfectly good idea except that the smallest practical pipe thread is 1/8 ". That requires a 5/16 drilled hole, so there's not a lot of 'meat' to play with there.

Don't blame you for being nervous about drilling and tapping those $$$$ brand new carbs, but it's not a difficult job--really. Here's some photos to help you. Note that the hole drilled UP from the bottom needs only be an 1/8 " or so, just enough to allow airflow.

Here's the entire procedure:

1. Drill a 5/16 inch hole from the front in the depression Edelbrock made in their casting. (The dopes should have drilled and tapped it, but we've been through this before.)

2. Tap it out to 1/8 inch NPT.

3. Drill UP from the bottom to connect the two holes.

4. Thread in a 1/8 NPT by 5/16 (or 3/8 depending on your hose size) barbed fitting.

5. Hose clamp the hose to the fitting.

6. Warm the engine, adjust the idle mixtures, and go boating!

Jeff
 

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Perfectly good idea except that the smallest practical pipe thread is 1/8 ". That requires a 5/16 drilled hole, so there's not a lot of 'meat' to play with there.

Don't blame you for being nervous about drilling and tapping those $$$$ brand new carbs, but it's not a difficult job--really. Here's some photos to help you. Note that the hole drilled UP from the bottom needs only be an 1/8 " or so, just enough to all

Here's the entire procedure:

1. Drill a 5/16 inch hole from the front in the depression Edelbrock made in their casting. (The dopes should have drilled and tapped it, but we've been through this before.)

2. Tap it out to 1/8 inch NPT.

3. Drill UP from the bottom to connect the two holes.

4. Thread in a 1/8 NPT by 5/16 (or 3/8 depending on your hose size) barbed fitting.

5. Hose clamp the hose to the fitting.

6. Warm the engine, adjust the idle mixtures, and go boating!

Jeff

Thanks for the pics! I guess that I will hold my breath and pick up the drill. I plan on installing the carb wedges with plain gaskets unless you recommend some type of gasket sealer?
 
Thanks fastjeff,

I tapped the carbs and put in the 3/8" barbs. I wasn't bad at all.

I replaced all metal fuel lines with A-1 fuel hose. Finding the correct fittings was a bugger!

1. My Framm fuel water seperator filters needed a male 1/4" pipe thread 90* to female 1/4" pipe thread. I used a 1/4" pipe thread 3/8" barb into elbow.
2. That runs to the intake side of the fuel pump. This is a 1/8" pipe thread 3/8"barb fitting.
3. The fuel pump output is male inverted flare 5/16" elbow to 3/8" barb fitting.(Flowline hydrolics has them).
4. Generic mr. gasket metal fuel filter with 3/8" barbs inline, before carb.
5. Edelbrock 3/8" barb fitting into carb ( had to order).

*****Now I need to find a keyed 12 volt source for the electric choke***** Edelbrock says no to coil,alternator and ballast resistor. I will try to figure this out.

I will try to test fire it today, wish me luck!
 
..."Edelbrock says no to coil,alternator and ballast resistor."

Right! Never easy to do, but you need a reliable, switched ON source. I used the power to my voltage regulators (that were removed for one-wire alternators).

Jeff
 
I checked the edelbrock paperwork again and they did not say "no ballast resistor",so I tapped into the incoming side. I seems to have worked fine. The engines ran beautifully. I will probably take her out for a test run today, but she sure did run smooth at the dock.

My timing was 32* all in on both motors. The starboard 440 was 11* base with 32 all in and the port was 5* base with 32* all in. my friend that helped me said that the 32* was most important. He said the 11* motor was a bit advanced, but the extra advance would make it idle smoothly. We decided not to set the starboard timing to 5* because we would lose the top of 32*. I don't know how to fiddle with distributors, so that is fine with me. I do have one new Mallory distributor for a standard left hand motor that gives 26* of advance and of course that is the motor that is already within spec. They both run very smoothly and get full 4000 rpm (with the old carbs). I will run her today and see how it does.
 
Captain Ed and FastJeff: Thanks for all your expertise. I've about had it with my Carter AFBs on my 440's so I am contemplating replacing with Edelbrock 1410's. I rebuilt one and just cant get it right. Hard starting, but runs way too rich on heat activated choke. Thought about putting a manual choke pull like an auto so I can adjust myself, but now just thinking I need to upgrade. I have read up on the PCV threading, but I am wondering if a remanufactured marine 1410 would already have this done. Couldn't get a straight answer from the seller on eBay. Does this look like it to you? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Edelbrock-M...ar&hash=item3a713a4a21&vxp=mtr#ht_2860wt_1165. It looks like it has the PCV post between the idle mixture screws.
 
I'd go with the 1409. You don't need te larger carb, and it fits the sameon your manifold.

Jeff

PS: Nothing wrong with using the ballast resistor 12 volts IN feed for the choke. I discourage people from doing it this way to avoid their chosing the wrong end of the resistor: THAT will not work!
 
Captain Ed and FastJeff: Thanks for all your expertise. I've about had it with my Carter AFBs on my 440's so I am contemplating replacing with Edelbrock 1410's. I rebuilt one and just cant get it right. Hard starting, but runs way too rich on heat activated choke. Thought about putting a manual choke pull like an auto so I can adjust myself, but now just thinking I need to upgrade. I have read up on the PCV threading, but I am wondering if a remanufactured marine 1410 would already have this done. Couldn't get a straight answer from the seller on eBay. Does this look like it to you? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Edelbrock-M...ar&hash=item3a713a4a21&vxp=mtr#ht_2860wt_1165. It looks like it has the PCV post between the idle mixture screws.

I got reconditioned carbs from the same company off ebay several months ago and they were already drilled. Just used barbed fitting off old carbs...all is well :D...They have good customer service/tech support..had to send one carb back to get cleaned out because trash got in it after I cleaned out my perko water seperators...never figured out how anything got past the fuel filter before the carb. Cheap filter (Auto Zone brand) I guess. They charged me $70 to clean out and rebuild.
 
..."had to send one carb back to get cleaned out because trash got in it after I cleaned out my perko water seperators...never figured out how anything got past the fuel filter "

Me neither! Crud has gotten into two of my outboards carbs this season--and I had a quality filter just before the carb.

Apparently, "Evil-Nol" still has a way to mess them up.

Jeff
 
I put 1410s on my 400s last year and they run great but recently had some wiring problems caused by hooking up the chokes to the ignition. As you know the instructions specifically state to not use the ignition wiring for the choke but I used it anyway as there was no other switched source on my boat. The ignition wires get power from the solonoid and run it all the way to the key and back to the coil, adding the choke to this is way to much draw and melted my harness, there is no fuse or load protection on the ignition so it is a fire hazard.

The way to hook this up correctly would be to add a relay controlled by the ignition circuit. I wish I could use the original mechanical choke setup but as of now I have just disconnected and opened the chokes, it is just a little harder to keep running when first started. I called Edelbrock for suggestions and they didn't have any but did remind me that it can't be hooked up to an ignition circuit.

Dan
 
I checked the edelbrock paperwork again and they did not say "no ballast resistor",so I tapped into the incoming side. I seems to have worked fine. The engines ran beautifully. I will probably take her out for a test run today, but she sure did run smooth at the dock.

My timing was 32* all in on both motors. The starboard 440 was 11* base with 32 all in and the port was 5* base with 32* all in. my friend that helped me said that the 32* was most important. He said the 11* motor was a bit advanced, but the extra advance would make it idle smoothly. We decided not to set the starboard timing to 5* because we would lose the top of 32*. I don't know how to fiddle with distributors, so that is fine with me. I do have one new Mallory distributor for a standard left hand motor that gives 26* of advance and of course that is the motor that is already within spec. They both run very smoothly and get full 4000 rpm (with the old carbs). I will run her today and see how it does.

From what I understand, you shouldn't have to adjust timing with a new carb. If so, then you have the wrong carb for the application. Is my understanding correct?
 
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