Mercruiser 470 stator question

If you have installed the Delco 10si kit, the charge lead should make a direct connection to the starter motor "common" cable terminal.
There's no need to use any of the OEM regulator connections, IMO.

The alternator should also have a short Negative wire connecting the chassis to the engine block.

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Great info, thanks everyone. I did not use a delco kit, just a marine alternator I fabbed up a mount for however I did notice something odd. When I connected both engines to it it got hot so I just went to the engine it was mounted on.(port side) Also the regulator that melted was on the starboard side so I am beginning to suspect my electrical problems are one the starboard side which happens to be the side the bilge blower is on. I have not cleaned up my starters yet, something I will do once I pull the engines if I ever get to that. How can I check the wiring for corroded strands without destroying them?

Yeah I really need to just go ferret out the problem it is just so tight in that bilge for a big guy like me to do anything. I need to just bite the bullet and get after it.

Thanks

How can I check the wiring for corroded strands without destroying them?

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I have cut off the connectors and stripped the insulation back until I find clean copper wire. If it is now too short splice the correct color /ga. wire to the end. solder/tin the wire end a 1/4" and crimp a new connector. I then also solder the wire end sticking out of the connector to it. If you use shrink tubing on the connection when done it weather proofs it.

My 470 turns over real slow but starts up after a second or two.

Mine doesn't turn ridiculously slow but it seems laborious. Starts ok though.

turns slower than most other engine I have dealt with. I wouldn't hit the starter for real long if it does not start up... just a feeling, but seems like something might get burned up in a short amount of time.

I mean it starts fine, I just feel like these starters have to work a little more to turn them over. I'm not trying to complain or pose a problem just agreeing that these engines take more to turn over.

Funny thing I have what looks like a factory installed amp meter (single unit) as well as the factory volt meters in the gauge clusters. There is no wiring to it and it looks like there never was. I am going to hunt these problems down 1 at a time this season. My first purchase is going to be 2 new starting batteries to compliment my deep cycles. The factory set up was 4 batteries so I am going to start there. It would be typical for me to solve every electrical problem I am having with this first step I should have done. Instead I try to solve the resultant issues. I will post results but be patient, my time is limited. As always, thanks for all the advice.

Bob

I made battery cables using welding cable...it is fine stranded copper and has greater current carrying capacity than standard automotive heavy strand cable.

bobsquatch said:

Great info, thanks everyone. I did not use a delco kit, just a marine alternator I fabbed up a mount for however I did notice something odd. When I connected both engines to it it got hot so I just went to the engine it was mounted on.(port side) Also the regulator that melted was on the starboard side so I am beginning to suspect my electrical problems are one the starboard side which happens to be the side the bilge blower is on. I have not cleaned up my starters yet, something I will do once I pull the engines if I ever get to that. How can I check the wiring for corroded strands without destroying them?

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Typically, the Stbd side is also your House Load side.

Pull your engine harness/helm harness pin connectors apart. Look at the condition of the contact pins.
Your charge lead to the ammter and back..... plus the helm power negative, will be carried within this harness.
Any resistance will play hell with your system.

bobsquatch said:

Funny thing I have what looks like a factory installed amp meter (single unit) as well as the factory volt meters in the gauge clusters. There is no wiring to it and it looks like there never was. I am going to hunt these problems down 1 at a time this season. My first purchase is going to be 2 new starting batteries to compliment my deep cycles. The factory set up was 4 batteries so I am going to start there. It would be typical for me to solve every electrical problem I am having with this first step I should have done. Instead I try to solve the resultant issues. I will post results but be patient, my time is limited. As always, thanks for all the advice.

Bob

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A helm located Ammeter requires that the charge lead run forward to the helm and back.
I'd be getting rid of that, take the charge leads out of the loop (helm and back) and make a direct connection to the terminal that I suggested earlier.
The helm Ammeter can be replaced with a volt meter.

Reason that I suggest this, is that there's no need to add the resistance of this long run to/from......., and that an Ammeter is not all that valuabe to begin with.
If you'll notice, after the 70's, ammeters are rarely seen being used.

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I've lost track of whos who regarding whos having slow cranking issues.
Of you who are having slow cranking...... how many of these starter motors are the bendix style?????
Just curious!



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How can you tell which is the Bendix style??? I will let you know.

There won't be a solenoid attached to the side of it.

Sorry, been off the computer a while. The starters are very large diameter with no external solenoid. I am going to drain the last bit of fuel this weekend and ad some fresh for testing purposes and see where I am at. Boat runs good with some electrical issues I will ferret out. Well it did last year, we will see next week. Have any of you ever added anti foul paint over an existing coat or is stripping bare mandatory?