AQ130 No Spark

hello
This is my first posting. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
My problem:
My coil is good
I have 12 volts to coil
replaced condenser, cap, points, wires.
If i put a test light in the coil wire it lights up, However if i put a plug in the wire i get no spark. It is if i'm not getting the high voltage to cause a spark. I believe that is the job of the condenser? Could a bad coil ground cause this. Also i believe my voltage is regulated through the alternator, could the alternator be an issue?
This is my first boat. I have had many older points type ignition trucks before and have always been able to figure a problem like this out. Is there some application boat specific?
The boat is a "76 apollo
Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the info. Any way you could post the schematic you have

socalflofan, the lead that attaches to the alternator is a "field circuit" if the OEM style alternator is still in place.
This little short lead contains a diode, but Volvo calls it a resistor.
It will not control any voltage to the ignition coil other than if it was excessively resisting since it shares the ignition circuit.
(doubt this is the case)
When these fail, they generally prevent engine shut down by continuing to excite this circuit.

While many of us do not recommend throwing parts at a problem, ignition parts are never a bad idea to replace.
If staying with contact points, the condensor must be in perfect condition as well as the coil.
No condensor.... no spark!
You can by-pass the contacts, or manipulate them manually to create one spark event.
You're on the right track by placing one spark plug lead into the high tension side of the coil.
The spark plug body must make good negative contact.
A whitish/bluish spark is what you're after.

If you go with the Pertronix kit, follow their instructions to the letter.... and re-set ignition timing including checking the TA.

.

Thanks a lot guys, I'm in san diego. believe it or not it actually rained last night but its all clear now going to the boat to see if i can't figger this thing out. I'll keep you posted. Also, i have going to my alt. 3 wires a red(bat.) a green(attached to the alt housing) and a black (not attached to anything). Where does the black go?

There should be no green in the engine harness-to-alternator that I am aware of. It does show green at the alternator, however.
The #10 black should be your system negative common... meaning that it connects the alternator case to the engine block.

I've tried everything i can think of. What about a ballast resistor gone bad. Is that a possibility? If so what happens and or doesn't happen at the coil?
Thanks, John

socalflofam said:

I've tried everything i can think of. What about a ballast resistor gone bad. Is that a possibility? If so what happens and or doesn't happen at the coil?

Click to expand...

John, the coil must be powered by the correct voltage. The voltage is determined by the coil type. It may be internally resisted, or it may require external resistance! You'll want to know this before you can test accurately.
If a ballast is required, test the voltage at both sides of the ballast resistor.


The coil acts like a one cycle A/C transformer per spark event. D
ifference is, we're doing this with D/C current by switching it on/off and allowing the condensor to play a role in this.
When the points are closed (and with the condensor in the loop) this allows the primary field to become saturated with electrical energy.
When the points break (again, with the condensor in the loop) the primary field collapses.
The collapse of the primary coil creates a secondary coil high energy voltage..... I.E., your ignition spark.
So if the primary side is not being charged, you won't receive good secondary voltage.

It's got to be something very simple.

.

Basic coil showing primary and secondary windings.


Basic mechanical contact ignition triggering.

socalflofam said:

If i put a test light in the coil wire it lights up, However if i put a plug in the wire i get no spark. It is if i'm not getting the high voltage to cause a spark. I believe that is the job of the condenser? Could a bad coil ground cause this.

Click to expand...

RicardoMarine said:

socalflofan, ...........................
You're on the right track by placing one spark plug lead into the high tension side of the coil.
The spark plug body must make good negative contact.
A whitish/bluish spark is what you're after.

Click to expand...

kimcrwbr1 said:

My money is on the coil you can test it with an ohm meter
1.... but another thing you can try is put a spark plug in the coil wire and set it on a good ground on the engine.
2..... disconnect the neg wire on the coil and then turn on the ignition. confirm you have 12 volts at the pos on the coil then with a small jumper wire quickly touch the neg on the coil to engine ground it should fire the plug every time you touch it quick touches that makes you the trigger. If you get spark it is in the dizzy or the wire from it if you dont get spark it is the coil.

Click to expand...

Good call on on both points. However, itsounds like he's tried this!

socalflofan, can you tell us exactly how you went about testing for spark?
Perhaps one little detail has been forgotten!

Also:
Have you taken an ohm reading?





And don't forget the condensor's role in this.
The condensor body must also make good Negative contact.



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