Logo
FULL SITE MENU

1993 evinrude 150 intruder: start and die, start and die. finally will start and run! HELP

K

Kenneth Winningham

New member
I have a 1993 150 intruder. When i take it to the lake and start it, it may start and run for 5 seconds and die. This may happen 6 to 10 times and then it may start or it may flood and then it takes 30 minutes or so and then it may start after the 2nd or 3rd try and run just fine. When it dies it is just like you turn the switch off. I have had the powerpack, ignition, plugs and stator checked but everything check o.k. At that time. It is an intermittent problem so maybe this stuff checked good at that time, because when i had it check out it started and ran just fine. The problem has been going on for 2 years and still haven't found the problem. Does anyone have any suggestions?
 
It could be your kill switch, the black and yellow wire that goes into your power pack, go to Ebay and get a OEM Manual.
 
I will crank and choke until it fires, it may run for about 5 seconds and it is just like you shut the key off. It will do this for 4 -8 times and then it may fire and run or it will flood out. I am not choking it after it fires the first time. Sometimes it may fire up and run the next 2 or 3 time with no problem then the next couple of times it may do as I stated at first, start and die. I did put a new key switch in it because when I check the ignition continuity it was dropping out as you worked the switch from on to start.
 
Do you advance throttle ( in nuetral ) when cold starting the motor ??---------------After it starts you need to operate the electric primer ( choke ) untill it smooths out.
 
Took it back to the lake today and yes I do advance the throttle in neutral and is running smooth for about 5-10 seconds and then it still dies as if you turned the keyswitch off even if it is turning 4000 RPM. On the third try this evening it decided it would keep running for me and ran it for about 5 miles and loaded it on the trailer without it failing.
 
Took my boat back to the lake again today and is still doin the same thing, start and die. Does anyone else have any ideas, could it be the the powerpack comming and going causing it to act up like this? like to have never got it started to come home this evening, thought I was going to have to use the trolling motor for about 5 miles!
 
i would put a inductive timing light in the boat and see if it had fire when failing....the decision is whether its no fire or a fuel problem.....if its no fire then look under the flywheel and see if you see any indication of the stator having been hot and melting the insulation....you also didnt say whether you disconnected the kill switch....that is the black and yellow wire coming off the power pack....its a slide in connector under the cowl placed there for that purpose......another electrical check is to make sure that you have fire that will jump 7/16 of an inch....if that is weak then fix that and you may solve your intermittent...
 
I have put a used power pack on it and it seemed to have cured the starting problem, but it has caused the idle to go to 1,600 and stay there like the cold start never shuts down. I am going to try a new power pack and see if this cures both problems and go from there.
 
well i gues i spoke too soon, the motor will start and idle just fine after replacing the powerpack. Now after you start it and put in gear around 1500 rpm it starts missing like it drops half power. After it runs for 15 minutes or so it will smooth out and start running fine unless you touch the trim button and it starts missing again, but after just a few moore minutes it will not affect it at all and will run the rest of the day. Took it back to the lake the next day and it was the same thing all over again. ANY IDEAS?
 
Yes the tach is working fine, the guage reads 14 volts on the altenator and I had the stator and even the old powerpack checked out before I replaced it and it showed everthing checked out good. Back to the original problem, I changed out the powerpack with a used one that fit my motor and the starting problem went away but it never would drop out of the high rpm cold start with that pack. Therefore I decided to buy a new powerpack and go that route. now it takes approximately 15-20 minutes total of run time and it will run like a champ. I did have to replace the regulator about 2-3 years ago.
 
If you're sure it's getting spark:
1. Check the compression of your motor.
2. Check the key ignition switch
Once you have the motor run 3-5 minutes or at the time it dies out, quickly remove the spark plugs and look at them to see if there's moisture/water on them. If so, time to replace all those gaskets, rings that keep the water out of the combustion chambers/cylinders.
 
with the new powerpack the engine starts fine and idles fine, it only starts cutting out when you start to throttle up. It gets up to about 1,500 rpm's and it starts missing, if you idle it around for about 15 minutes it will smooth out and run fine the rest of the day. It never dies completely out. With the old powerpack it would not start and run right off. It way start 7-10 times and die, then it would start and run.
 
Remove the pulse limiter line to the vro pump and see if any fuel comes out. If it does, time for a new VRO. Even if your VRO oil side is not being used any longer you still need to check this. The fuel side is still functioning. If the pump is leaking internally it will cause performance problems and eventually damage your engine.
 
Back
Top