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No RPM working

A

Andy G

New member
HI All,

Recent purchase of Evinrude 60hp vro. 1996 model 3 cylinder

After wiring up all fuel/oil battery and RPM unit audible sounder e.t.c....I asked my son to connect battery terminals and every thing worked as it should, got all 4 lights on rpm unit worked and audible sounder worked, tested engine and runs like a watch, disconnect battery to titivate boat and engine. later asked my son to reconnect battery which he did and regrettably wired the battery up wrong around for about 10/15 seconds,:mad: i didn't start engine as i noticed what he had done wrong, we then swapped battery leads around to how they suppose to be and engines starts fine but no RPM and no audible sound and no lights on unit...I have checked the only fuse i could find which is a 20 amp on top of engine and that's ok....can anybody please help as don't no where to look for any more fuses OR is their something more that can be damaged

Many Thanks

Andy G
 
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Andy G said:
Rectifier works all good, any other suggestions?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Andy... You are in error. I assume that you have a combination Water Cooled Voltage Regulator/Rectifier assembly. The tachometer functions off of the engines charging system. Having a battery connected backwards destroys the rectifier, doesn't matter if it is connected backwards for 15 seconds, a hour, or a fraction of a second.

Having the tachometer fail to function should have gave you a clue... whether you have a water cooled reg/rec assy or a plain rectifier, trust me.... it's shot! Prove this statement with the following test:

(Testing Tachometer With Water Cooled Regulator/Rectifier)
(J. Reeves)
A quick check is to simply plug in a another new tachometer as a piece of test equipment. If the new tach works properly and the old tach didn't, obviously the old tach is faulty.... but usually boaters don't carry around a spare tach (see below).

A faulty rectifier wouldn't damage the tachometer, the tachometer simply wouldn't work. This is due to the fact that the tachometer operates off of the charging system and the rectifier converts AC voltage to DC voltage, enabling the charging system. A faulty rectifier disables the charging system, and the tachometer simply doesn't register.

However.... those water cooled regulator/rectifiers that are used on the 35 ampere charging systems (and some others) bring into play a different type problem, and as you've probably found out, they are really a pain to troubleshoot via the proper procedure. There's an easier way.

The tachometer sending/receiving setup operates off of the gray wire at the tachometer. That same gray wire exists at the engine wiring harness which is connected to the engine electrical terminal strip. You'll see that there is a gray wire leading from the regulator/rectifier to that terminal strip, and that there is another gray wire attached to it. That other gray wire is the wire leading to the tachometer which is the one you're looking for.
NOTE: For the later models that DO NOT incorporate a wiring terminal strip, splicing into the "Yellow Wire" mentioned will be necessary.

Remove that gray wire that leads to the tachometer. Now, find the two (2) yellow wires leading from the stator to that terminal strip. Hopefully one of them is either yellow/gray or is connected to a yellow/gray wire at the terminal strip. If so, connect the gray wire you removed previously to that yellow/gray terminal. Start the engine and check the tachometers operation, and if the tachometer operates as it should, then the regulator/rectifier is faulty and will require replacing. If the tachometer is still faulty, replace the tachometer.

If neither of the yellow wires from the stator is yellow/gray, and neither is attached to a yellow/gray wire, then attach that gray tachometer wire to either yellow stator wire, then the other yellow wire, checking the tachometer operation on both connections.

I've found this method to be a quick and efficient way of finding out which component is faulty.... the tachometer or the regulator/rectifier. It sounds drawn out but really only takes a very short time to run through. If the water cooled regulator/rectifier proves to be faulty, don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disastrous consequences.


You may have other problems but then again.... hopefully you'll be one of the lucky ones.
 
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then you say no audible lights on unit and no sound are you talking about the lights on console and a buzzer when you turn on key?is the voltmeter working?....if so what is the reading when the motor is running?.....the tac works off the rectifier as racer is saying...the buzzer and lights should work when the key is turned on....i would suspect 12v missing from the battery to the console ....look closely at your wiring coming off the battery and see if there is an inline fuse in a smaller wire coming off the positive post....is the buzzer in the console or in your controls?.....if no blown fuse then you need to get a meter and see if you have 12v at a failing point..the lights may be the easiest approach....make sure you have the key on.....you may have another fuse under the console but i doubt it unless someone added some wiring since manufacture....fuses should be closer to the 12v source than that as a fire protection preventive....but you never know.....you have 12 volts at the start key or the motor would not start....may be an open between the controls and the console...and if the buzzer is located in the controls then the problem will be in the control assy...one thing to keep in mind when metering 12v circuits....if you have a resistance and are measuring voltage you may read 12v on the load side of the 12v when you are not drawing current...when the load is applied then the voltage is dropped at the resistance point...normally it will burn this point up but not always....if you are lucky then the wire is burned through and you have an open...good luck and get back to us...
 
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sorry Joe....i was typing as you answered problem and i a one finger typer...didnt mean to come in on top of you....
 
HI all

Many thanks for the suggestions,

The engine starts as it should on the key, Bt as previous post I tested rectifier today with every thing connected and no buzzer sound and no lights on rpm unit, however i did plug im my Garmin fish finder, as this does show battery state, and when engine was reved up it clearly showed that the battery was on charge and went up to around 14.8 volts but around 13.2 volts on idle, so does this verify the rectifier is working?
Thanks
Andy
 
Papyson.... That creates no problems on my end my friend, the more, the merrier. (Joe)

Strange then, that the tachometer won't function.
 
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Maybe just the Tacho is blown, I do have a another 1 on its way should arrive Thursday...I will up date you all when I have tried it.

Many thanks for your help to date

Andy
 
you need 12v on the 12v stud on the tach for it to work.....also for the lights and the alarm.....i would check that before i opened the box for the tach...you may just have a spare tach if you dont....good luck....
 
HI All, many thanks for all your feed back and yes a another tach unit did the job and works a treat, I guess it actually blew a diode or something inside the old 1 but all good now and working well

Many Thanks
Andy G;)
 
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