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  1. #31
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    I thought you had 2 318s already in the 27, plus the 2 you just got ,the 31' has 2 already in it and 2 in dry storage

    360s great more power,less they got to work,maybe oughta be in the 31

    yep crazy idea...

  2. #32
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    GreaseMonkey,

    Oops! Sorry mate! I see what you're getting at.

    The 27' should scoot ride along with that pair of 360's.
    Cheers,
    Rev Bob

    "if it's gonna happen, it'll happen out there!"


    My Dad always said; "Everything on your boat is either broken or about to be.......and you just don't know about it yet".

  3. #33
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Quote Originally Posted by greasemonkey View Post
    I thought you had 2 318s already in the 27, plus the 2 you just got ,the 31' has 2 already in it and 2 in dry storage

    360s great more power,less they got to work,maybe oughta be in the 31

    yep crazy idea...

    Cripes....yes..that is 8 motors......too many pairs of twins for me to count...................!

    yeah crazy idea, but fun to think about...HA
    I think one will be enough........

  4. #34
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    cut a hole add a shaft/strut squeeze one in between the two....triple inboards....nothin to it!!!

    I think that 27 be great for outboard power but the price tag not so great for new but used

    bracket 1500
    reinforcment(simple)500
    motors/controls used maybe 20 for 2 yamaha/suzuki four strokes

  5. #35
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Ideally I would like to repower with twin diesels, but thats a major investment in a boat I have not used. OB's would be my next choice and there are some real advantages to a OB, less weight, room for fish hold, less chance of fumes-fire in the hull and probably some fuel savings. But still this is a budget project and will see how that goes. Plus I am looking forward to hearing the sound of twin V-8's when on step.............!

    The 360's showed up today and a lot will depend on how serviceable they turn out to be, complete with Velvet drives that rotate and clean oil in the motors and gears, I am stoked................John
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  6. #36
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    got a jabsco(raw water pump) on that one which, should be a removeable pulley and rebuildable,

    Those manifolds are on the brink...wouldnt put water to it if you plan on firing up

    Cant wait for the numbers...

  7. #37
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    John,

    That was some good spending! I'll bet they'll start and run, there should be some interchangeable donor parts on the old 318's if need be! Even if you don't use them, with a little work you could triple or quadruple your money for the pair.


    I'll let you go....you need to get busy!
    Cheers,
    Rev Bob

    "if it's gonna happen, it'll happen out there!"


    My Dad always said; "Everything on your boat is either broken or about to be.......and you just don't know about it yet".

  8. #38
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    I pulled the plugs and they looked ok, appears to have been running a little rich but they are not oily. Turned both motors over by hand easy enough.
    Throttle shafts are frozen up, I have sprayed them down with PB and will put some marvel in the cylinders and hand prop them a few times.
    It might be the weekend or longer before I can try to start.

    greasemonkey, I have a lot to learn, your comment about the manifolds has be wondering....? sounds like they could be a concern and you wouldnt put water in the system? I had planned to do so, but may just fire them up for a minute just to make sure they do run and aernt making some gawdawful noise from deep within........

    If they run, whats the next step? remove manifolds, heat excahanger......? clean, inspect, rebuild or replace as needed....?
    Pretty savvvy on engines but I have a lot to learn on the cooling and trannie side of marine motors...........
    Last edited by Akjohn; 03-06-2012 at 01:29 AM.

  9. #39
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    John, a few observations if I may, and since you will no doubt be spending some money..... your money, not mine! LOL

    The starter motors are old school by today's standards and are also Bendix drive motors... meaning that they rely on a quick armature action in order to throw the drive into the ring gear. They do not perform well by today's standards.
    I'd not spend a dime over-hauling these, and would pick up a pair of HTGR/PMGR I/B starter motors.
    They'll crank a bit faster and will typically draw less load.

    Exhaust mans... same thing!
    If these are in need of replacement, and if you have the space above them, I'd consider a universal Barr or Osco center-rise style.
    You can block-off the risers and bring the manifolds into the closed cooling system loop.
    The system won't even know that the change has been made..... other than perhaps a bit of power increase and the ease of future replacement sourcing.

    I'm guessing that the belt driven sea water pumps would be Sherwood.... perhaps Jabsco, but would need to see more of them.
    Rick ... aka Ricardo..... AQ series Volvo Penta repair
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

    Please... no PMs! Post your questions on the forum.

  10. #40
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    I appreciate all the input, I wont know about space until I get the boat unless someone with a 27' Uniflite chimes in?
    When you say block off the risers, I take that to mean the exhausts will no longer be "wet" and the raw water outlet will attach to another thru hole fitting?
    It appears the existing manifolds are part of the closed water side and only the elbow is wet?

  11. #41
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Quote Originally Posted by Akjohn View Post
    I appreciate all the input, I wont know about space until I get the boat unless someone with a 27' Uniflite chimes in?
    1.... When you say block off the risers, I take that to mean the exhausts will no longer be "wet" and the raw water outlet will attach to another thru hole fitting?
    2.... It appears the existing manifolds are part of the closed water side and only the elbow is wet?
    1... Not exactly! The exhaust becomes "sea water" wet at/in the riser. The Block off is to separate the manifold coolant (of which will be E/G) and the riser water, of which will be sea water.

    2... Correct! And that's why the riser must be separated via a block off plate for a two pc exhaust manifold/riser.
    With your OEM manifolds, this separation is at the rear elbow or outlet.
    Rick ... aka Ricardo..... AQ series Volvo Penta repair
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

    Please... no PMs! Post your questions on the forum.

  12. #42
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    It appears the elbows are blocked off from the manifold to me?
    Do I need to remove the manifolds to inspect & clean even if fresh water cooled?
    When I look into the fill neck of the heat excahnger, it looks quite clean.
    The two motors are plumbed slightly diffrent and there are some missing hoses that I presume would supply cabin heat?
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  13. #43
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    John, IMO, there is a misnomer in the use of Fresh Water cooled. To some, this means antifreeze coolant...., to others, it can be interpreted as meaning Lake/River water cooled.
    I wish that the industry would have confirmed the term "Closed Cooling System" years ago! There would be much less confusion.
    I know.... my pet peeve!

    Your manifolds are in the loop of your Closed Cooling system.

    There's a less likelihood of manifold deterioration than there is of riser deterioration simply due to E/G protecting the manifolds, whereas sea water has been in the risers their entire life.
    It's still not a bad idea to check the manifolds.
    Rick ... aka Ricardo..... AQ series Volvo Penta repair
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

    Please... no PMs! Post your questions on the forum.

  14. #44
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Yes, closed cooling is a better description, I will have to do a compression test, see if they run and ponder my next step.
    Its still several months before I can get the boat, and it snowed another 8" last night, gottta love winter.......woo............hoo.....

  15. #45
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    What? I dont see where you say the starters dont work....if the starters work pull all those plugs out like you did get your oil can throw the marvel in that... give it 2-3 squirt on the inner most part of the wall as to drain down and around the pistons and rings.....Load em up if your worried even though you already turned em by hand and all the plugs look rich and not rusty...pay attention to which way it spins so you can locate the counterrotator if there is one.or look on the tag IF....its got one ...run that compression test and remember you just loaded up with oil try to blow most of it out to get a better reading,cut it with some sea foam

    The grey expansion tank is fairly new and Expensive those both looke pretty good

    Yep the mannys are in the coolant loop but one looks real bad

    they look so rusty on the outside because they've been on a long time and he just kept bolting new risers to it,but that one looks real badhope fully he did use a plate instead of just a block off gasket

    I posted this mannifold bolt to warn you, if there aint no head on the bolt just cut the head off .....Theres always been just 1 or 2 that wants to try and get me
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  16. #46
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    I squirted some marvel in the spark plug holes and rolled them over by hand, the CW motor was more diffucult to turn and then it broke free, I suspect here was some light surface rust on a cylinder wall. I sprayed the throttle linkage again as well, the chokes and secodaries will roatate, main throttle shaft is stuck. I will not do a compression test until I after I run them, and they may be a while, I just want to pickle them for now and once I get the boat I can spend some time on the motors.

    The CW motor appears to have less hours on it, as there is still paint on the manifolds and around the spark plug holes.
    The heat excahangers, are they "sendure"? I presume I can remove end caps, clean and reseal when the time comes?

    GM, broken bolts can be a pain, at least the motor is not in the boat, I can not decipher what you wrote on the photo? Cripes man, it looks like my own writing.............LOL

  17. #47
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Be wise to find out what you got now...for 600 theres a reason there not in a boat...Like rick says IMO

    Not a bad idea to let em sit with some lube in em though,

    Those are heat exchanger/expansion tank combos these are over a grand a piece maybe and should be procured like an old mammoth husk!!

    The photo says check the compression before something breaks LOL

  18. #48
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    The story on the motors is they came out running, they were removed to make hull repairs, the boat was stored, storage fees were not paid and the storage yard ended up with the boat. The nephew had the mptprs stored in a warehouse that he had to vacate and decided to sell. That where I come in.
    In any case, from what I see I have no reason to not beleive they will run when I get more time to work on them on, especially since I dont even have the boat yet and it has snowed three more feet in Valdez last weekend.

    Believe or not the boat is in my avatar pic...................if you could enlarge it you might see the radar dome.
    And heck maybe the 318's have some life left in them, I bought the 360's based on a gut feeling and I thought they were a good deal.
    I will get them sorted out before I drop them in the boat, I doubt theres very much room to work on them once in the boat.

    Any guess on existing wheels with the Velvet drive gears, is the VDrive a better choice than the Paragon's? Will I most likely need to reprop?
    The ratio is 1.52:1 on the VD's..........The Paragons?

  19. #49
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Ooops....I wondered how people double posted......now I know, watch out for that back button.......!
    I coulndt just delete, so its another oporunity to say thanks for all the input and inof, I have learned a lot........
    Last edited by Akjohn; 03-07-2012 at 07:59 PM.

  20. #50
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    I may get a chance over the weekend to work on these and see if I can get them running.
    I thought I should check the transmission while I am at it......

    I could post this on the Marine transmission forum, but not much activity there...

    Anyone know how to test a BW velvet drive?

    Thanks, John

  21. #51
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    pretty rock solid ,but theres a fitting at the top and basically its how well the shifter moves and how much pressure she builds at what revolution

    make sure you get the right fitting.... it may be impossible to get out

    check out mongo on you tube with his 440 one of my favs

    the pressure chart is online

  22. #52
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Well it was a very good day, we got both motors running, this rather brief vid is of the 2nd motor, which we only ran for a few seconds as the float was sticking in the carb. All the smoke is from the marvel I put in the cylinders when I first got them.

    The first motor we ran for a minute or so after some fits and starts, it took a little while for the fuel pump to start working, once that happened it ran and idled ok. I though I had the camera on but was rather excited...........!
    In any case I am very happy, still plenty to do, but no gawdawful sounds coming from deep within and good oil pressure on both motors.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75-Yi...ature=youtu.be

  23. #53

    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Excellent! That just may have been the best $600 you ever spent.

    Did you have the seawater pumps connected to a water source (like a big bucket)? The impellers in those belt-driven seawater pumps on the front of the engine won't last long running dry.

    I hate to spend your money, but I'd replace the manifolds and risers on both engines. You really don't have any history on them and they are like time bombs on marine engines. There are modern center-riser type manifolds for the M360 as well as risers and gaskets available from Barr. While you're at it, replace all the hoses and hose clamps. You'll have to cut some of the old hoses off anyway.

    The seawater pumps on the front of the engines are Sherwood G7B. You will definitely want to replace the impellers and the pump cams before running the engines. There are impeller kits and cams available for these pumps. Just Google Sherwood G7B.

    Your Sendure heat exchangers each cost more than you paid for both engines and there are parts (gaskets, etc.) readily available for them.

    Your transmission/prop question may have to wait until you physically get the boat in your possession. I'm not clear on what transmissions are in that boat now. Are they V-drives? If so, you may have to use them on your new 360s. If they are straight drives, you can probably use the transmissions that you got with the 360s. In either case, you're stuck with the reduction ratios you have. A good prop shop can probably work out a prop diameter/pitch that will work.

    Bill

  24. #54
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Quote Originally Posted by actthree View Post
    Excellent! That just may have been the best $600 you ever spent.

    Did you have the seawater pumps connected to a water source (like a big bucket)? The impellers in those belt-driven seawater pumps on the front of the engine won't last long running dry.

    I hate to spend your money, but I'd replace the manifolds and risers on both engines. You really don't have any history on them and they are like time bombs on marine engines. There are modern center-riser type manifolds for the M360 as well as risers and gaskets available from Barr. While you're at it, replace all the hoses and hose clamps. You'll have to cut some of the old hoses off anyway.

    The seawater pumps on the front of the engines are Sherwood G7B. You will definitely want to replace the impellers and the pump cams before running the engines. There are impeller kits and cams available for these pumps. Just Google Sherwood G7B.

    Your Sendure heat exchangers each cost more than you paid for both engines and there are parts (gaskets, etc.) readily available for them.

    Your transmission/prop question may have to wait until you physically get the boat in your possession. I'm not clear on what transmissions are in that boat now. Are they V-drives? If so, you may have to use them on your new 360s. If they are straight drives, you can probably use the transmissions that you got with the 360s. In either case, you're stuck with the reduction ratios you have. A good prop shop can probably work out a prop diameter/pitch that will work.

    Bill
    Bill, thanks for the reply, we ran the motors dry, and for a very short time, #1 maybe a minute and #2 for just a few seconds as the float was sticking in the carb.
    We ran them with the belts off, truned them over with the plugs out to get oil pressure before we fired them up.

    I pressure checked the cooling and both of the heat exchangers are leaking, one held pressure and slowly dropped the other would not build pressure as the HE was leaking bad enough. The next step will be to get the motors properly supported via the motor mounts on some dunnage so we can run them for a longer period. Fill the closed cooling, connect a temperature & oil pressure gauge. I will also check the tranny pressure and have a handheld tach for RPM's.

    At that point I will plan to run the motors for 1/2 hour or so, get them up to temp, check the intake for leaks, etc......I think we have one or two sticking valves so the compression test we did on Saturday just tells me we dont have any badly burnt vavles or holes in a piston. Once they have been run I will check again and see how the numbers look, so far everything is between 100-160 and after we have run it for a while I hope all cylinders will come up within 10 percent of each other......

    I will connect a hose to the raw water intake, I may pull the raw water pumps apart and rebuild unless I can just run water thru them? Is that possible or do they need to turn? Or I suppose I could remove the pump and just install a short piece of tubing....? Any advice or suggestions on that?


    Before the motors go in the boat, we will remove everthing except the intake (unless it leaks), seal and clean the oil pan and valve covers, R&R main seals, new closed water pump, fuel pumps..........and so on, its a lot easier to work on the motor out of the boat. The exhaust manifolds are a big question.....? I dont know if we will have room for the center rise style, several folks have recomended that conversion, just wondering what is the advantage?

    If we have to use the log style I hope we can pressure test what we have and reuse....? Maybe thats wishful thinking? Any thoughts on that?

    Any recomendations on where to send the heat exchangers to rebuild? Preferably someone on the west coast, I can probably solder them up myself but I think I would be better off sending them to someone that does those routinely.

    I have a question about the trannies, the current motors are 318's with Paragons (straight drive), whats the likelyhood the BW velvet drives are the same lenght as the Paragon's.......? will I have to modify the prop shaft? What does the coupling look like?

    I am at a real disadvantage with some of this stuff as I dont have the boat here to look at.............but have the time right now to at least make some headway on the motors I have.

    Thanks to all.......... John

  25. #55

    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Hey John,

    Thanks for the interesting post. To answer the question you had: do not remove the seawater pump and force water into the engine using a hose. The best way to do this is to rebuild the pump (if it isn't working) and then stick the water pump intake hose into a five gallon bucket. Put a garden hose into the bucket and fill even to overflowing. Then start the engine and let it warm up drawing its water from the bucket.

    City/well water pressure exceeds what the pump can deliver so you want to let the engine suck up only the water it needs to cool the engine. If you get a lot of water out of the exhausts, then your seawater pump is working,

    Hope this project works out for you. I'll certainly be watching to see what happens.

    Bill

  26. #56
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Rebuilt the carbs this weekend, they needed it, pulled off the raw water pumps, one is serviceable and in good condition, the 2nd pump is in bad shape.
    If all goes well we may try to run the motors again for a half hour or so next weekend. Would like to check the Borg Warners while we are at it. I have downloaded several manuals and read through most of it....but some confusion yet about which port to check the pressure? There are two possibilities. One is directly above the shifter and next to the line to the cooler, the other port is closer to the engine up near top, and the diagrams ahow this as a "reverse clutch pressure tap", however the passage to the forward clutch appears connected to the reverse tap?

    This is a 10-17-005 AS2 71C

    I have the transmission pressure specs, just not sure where to check it at? I would appreciate some help, thanks, John

  27. #57
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Quote Originally Posted by greasemonkey View Post
    pretty rock solid ,but theres a fitting at the top and basically its how well the shifter moves and how much pressure she builds at what revolution

    make sure you get the right fitting.... it may be impossible to get out

    check out mongo on you tube with his 440 one of my favs

    the pressure chart is online
    Watched that vid again, its cool, I like the way he washs the back end of his wifes car.......LOL
    He has the pressure gauge in what is reffered to as the Reverse pressure tap, at least as far as I know........from what I have read.......is this the correct place to check pressure?

  28. #58
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Mystery oil line on the back of the motor? What is this for? about 12' long flexible black hose, connects into the main oil pressure galley just behind the intake. It has a brass fitting on the free end and is barbed, I can see a ball inside and presume its a check valve as it did not spew oil when we ran them a while back.
    So anyone know what these are for? I suspect they are used for changing the oil?

    John

  29. #59
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    I think that area next to the distributor is where you would have the oil pressure switch and sending unit if it was for changing oil I believe it would be attached to the drain plug(oil pan)

    when I read the manual last time there was one place it said wasnt the right spot,not sure which one it was...

  30. #60
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    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    It says to check pressure with a guage installed in the hydraulic line

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