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  1. #61
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Fairbanks Alaska
    Posts
    88

    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Quote Originally Posted by greasemonkey View Post
    I think that area next to the distributor is where you would have the oil pressure switch and sending unit if it was for changing oil I believe it would be attached to the drain plug(oil pan)

    when I read the manual last time there was one place it said wasnt the right spot,not sure which one it was...
    I will have to take a photo, the 1/8 fitting in the top of block has a brass T, out of the top of the T is a short hose that attaches to a cast aluminum bracket that supports the electonics and also is a feed for two oil sensors, one I am sure goes to a dash mounted guage, the other sensor must go to a light or low oil alarm? This black hose that I am referring too comes out side of T, it not connected to anything and doesnt appear as if ever was......
    I can see a check valve in the end, but is definetly odd to me, I have perused the manual I downloaded and no answers there, so far.

    Was also wondering about oil changes, today we got the motor sitting on the motor mounts and the motor sits at a substainsal angle. The drain plug is on the front of the pain and I suspect that is not very accesiable once the motor is in the boat. Now,Ii know its common to draw the oil out the dipstick tube, which is very small. But the dipstick tube is not at the back of the motor. So, is drawing the oil out the tube the normal method?

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Fairbanks Alaska
    Posts
    88

    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Quote Originally Posted by actthree View Post
    Hey John,

    Thanks for the interesting post. To answer the question you had: do not remove the seawater pump and force water into the engine using a hose. The best way to do this is to rebuild the pump (if it isn't working) and then stick the water pump intake hose into a five gallon bucket. Put a garden hose into the bucket and fill even to overflowing. Then start the engine and let it warm up drawing its water from the bucket.

    City/well water pressure exceeds what the pump can deliver so you want to let the engine suck up only the water it needs to cool the engine. If you get a lot of water out of the exhausts, then your seawater pump is working,

    Hope this project works out for you. I'll certainly be watching to see what happens.

    Bill
    Thanks for this bit of advice, we pulled both pumps off an seperated the housing, the one pump is servicable, at least for now. The impeller is soft, the shaft turns easy, the bearings are good. I plan to use it when we run them hopefully this weekend. The second pump is shot, its similar but a different design, 1/2 is brass or bronze and the other 1/2 is cast iron, the shaft will turn but I dont think it worth foolin with, the pulley is held on with a set screw, whereas the other pulley is pressed on and appears to be a more current design?

    Also it appears that have to be oriented diffrently depending on the motor rotation? Is this correct?

  3. #63

    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    The Sherwood seawater pump (the one with the pulley pressed on) can be rebuilt. When you reassemble it, insert the impeller and rotate it so that vanes are set for the intended rotation. Smear some dish washing liquid around inside the pump and the impeller will slide in a little easier.

    A photo would help identify that 1/8-inch fitting with the "T" that you asked about.

    As for the changing the oil through the dip stick, yes that's a common way to do it and it certainly isn't ideal. But since you haven't installed the engines yet, why not just remove the drain plugs on the oil pans and replace them with fittings so you can run a hose or a length of tubing up behind the engine? That makes changing the oil very easy and you'll be getting all the oil and the sludge out. Lots of people do this when they re-power.

    Bill

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Fairbanks Alaska
    Posts
    88

    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Here is a photo of the end of the hose, and you can barely see the brass T at the block, its right at the end of the intake manifold.
    Good idea on adding a hose, however the plug is at the front....hmmmm, I will have to look and see if there is a drain plug on the back as well. Just draining from the front would leave several quarts of oil in the pan due to the angle.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #65
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Mt.Pleasant, South Carolina, US
    Posts
    445

    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Go back with a jabsco pump,the pressed on pulley is outdated,you'll tear up the the three hole pulley getting it off to rebuild,They offer kits major and minor for the sherwood but the pulley will get you,

    Played that game...and shoulda just bought the jabsco

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Mt.Pleasant, South Carolina, US
    Posts
    445

    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    The hose....I dont know,,,but those rigs are customized pretty good with the closed cooled mannys,maybe some kind of manual gauge or possible oil change apparatus???

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Fairbanks Alaska
    Posts
    88

    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Quote Originally Posted by greasemonkey View Post
    Go back with a jabsco pump,the pressed on pulley is outdated,you'll tear up the the three hole pulley getting it off to rebuild,They offer kits major and minor for the sherwood but the pulley will get you,

    Played that game...and shoulda just bought the jabsco
    Geez, I used my power steering pulley puller & it came right off like no bodies buisness.....? Pressed right back on also. That one had a sherwood tag on it. The other one was unmarked......just thought it was a older design.
    So your saying I have two different pumps? Internally the housing & impeller look the same, but from what you are saying the pump with cast iron bearing housing and the set screw in the pulley is a Jabsco? Internally they are nearly identical? I was gonna scrap the jabsco........

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Fairbanks Alaska
    Posts
    88

    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Quote Originally Posted by greasemonkey View Post
    The hose....I dont know,,,but those rigs are customized pretty good with the closed cooled mannys,maybe some kind of manual gauge or possible oil change apparatus???
    Peculiar all right.....? I sure was hoping somone would chime in say, oh yeah, thats for yada yada.......
    the brass fitting is somewhat barbed, so a hose would not slide off easy, but when I ran the motor no oil came out the end, and there was a mechanical oil guage on a 2 foot whip screwed into another fitting, all are connected to the same main oil galley......Next time I remove the electrics I will take a photo of the whole shooting match......

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Mt.Pleasant, South Carolina, US
    Posts
    445

    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Sherwoods are fine and your just still getting familar with the two engines,I like the solid pulley,better chance it wont get bent upon removal and install...two differrent pulley sizes two different impellers like to kept it all the same on the twins but I still have 1 jabsco and 1 sherwood!!I had it pulled by a auto repair place they bent the **** out of came back and said "we got it off" and I said"the whole reason I brought it to you was to get it off and on right" .they bought another pulley and I pressed it on...thats why I do all the work myself

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Fairbanks Alaska
    Posts
    88

    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    We had a good day yesterday, got both motors running and up to temp, did a compression test when we were done.
    Checked the tranny pressure and apperently the fitting closest to the bell housing is for reverse.....
    Still plenty to do but will probably mothball the motors until I can get the boat home........

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVFlX4OWYjE

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Mt.Pleasant, South Carolina, US
    Posts
    445

    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Good Show!! Compression looked good on those cylinders

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Fairbanks Alaska
    Posts
    88

    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Quote Originally Posted by greasemonkey View Post
    Good Show!! Compression looked good on those cylinders
    Yeah I am very happy with the results, the R motor had one low cylinder (126 psi) & the rest were near 150, that same cylinder was low last time we checked them. So running for a 1/2 hour helped. It may come up more with time. The L motor was in the 125-130 with one low cylinder at 100 or so......and the L motor just looks like it has more time, more rust, less paint........

    But am pleased with both motors, as it stands I would run them w/o getting into the internals. New mannys, elbows, rebuild the exchangers, certainly reseal the vavle covers and probably pull the pan and reseal that as well. Not sure about the main seals......? no leaks after a 1/2 hour.......But...? What would you guys do.....? Leave em be or new seals front & back?

  13. #73
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Mt.Pleasant, South Carolina, US
    Posts
    445

    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Rule out a valve/valve seat on those two....25 IS the max difference,,,have that look when the exhaust comes off(exhaust valve)
    Def the rear main....she may have hung dry on a straight drive,but just got lubed up and spun...pulling of the front ends is a BEAR(BLACK BEAR) not GRIZZLEY
    IF you open the bottom better fix that cylinder if its rings/wall/piston

  14. #74

    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Hi, also a new member with a 27' Uniflite Express w/ twin 318's.
    I am leaking water from the rear of my port engine, Somewhere behind the bell housing. I have already had to replace most of the freeze plugs on the engine, so I'm assuming that is my problem.
    Question is , with the hard top extending past the engine and the manifold touching the deck. does anybody have any experience getting to those freeze plugs. I understand there are two behind the bell housing.

  15. #75

    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    There are two freeze plugs that, if I remember, can only be accessed with the bell housing/transmission removed. The part of your question..."with the hard top extending past the engine and the manifold touching the deck" I assume you included to indicate how little room you have to work with. That is an issue that most of us just have to work with.

    I'd begin by making absolutely sure that the water leak is coming from behind the bell housing. If it is, the only solution I see is separating the engine from the bell housing and then replacing the freeze plugs with new brass ones. This is certainly not a trivial job but one that will make that engine usable again.

  16. #76
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Portland, Oregon,
    Posts
    9,090

    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Skipper John..... this thread was started back in January of 2012.
    It would be best if you were to start your own NEW thread for your specific topic!


    .
    Rick ... aka Ricardo..... AQ series Volvo Penta repair
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

    Please... no PMs! Post your questions on the forum.

  17. #77

    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Yup , I'm sure that's where the water is coming from. You are absolutely correct about the" room to work with". Any suggestions on a procedure to separate the bell housing from the engine?

  18. #78

    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Would love to start a new thread but I have not figured out how to do that. You see I'm new to this forum stuff and almost all computer stuff. But I guess I must figure it out if I want help, witch I really do!!! How do I start a new thread?

  19. #79
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Chi West, IL, USA
    Posts
    757

    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Quote Originally Posted by skipper john View Post
    Would love to start a new thread but I have not figured out how to do that. You see I'm new to this forum stuff and almost all computer stuff. But I guess I must figure it out if I want help, witch I really do!!! How do I start a new thread?
    Reference picture below. From this post go to the top of the page. Click on the words in the red circle. Then click the box in the green circle. Rock and roll!
    Click image for larger version. 

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  20. #80

    Default Re: 27' Uniflite w/ twin 318's.......questions

    Thanks a bunch. Got it now hopefully someone will be able to help me!!!

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