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2002 Honda BF225 - Honda Service Bulletin #56

just check plugs semi annually regrease threads, If you haven't had o2 problems as of yet you proably our fine.... Clearance looks acceptable from what I see.. There are plenty of info on clearnace on here just do a search....
 
any other tale tell signs to look for to see if I'm sucking up saltwater through the exhuast?

What about the water splashing over the exhuast when coming off plane?

Will it go down the exhuast when coming off plane or is that not typical in this senerio?
 
From the pictures, it looks like your motor might be mounted almost too high. SB#56 and the shop manual says the minimum height for the exhaust ports above the water line is 5.9 inches. The best way to check that you have the right engine height is to observe the anticavitation plate at full throttle. It should be riding just at the top of the water line, skimming the water surface.

I fish a lot in heavy seas, so my exhaust ports regularly get sumerged, especially in following seas, and I haven't had a problem. My theory on that is that as long as the engine is running above idle, the exhaust pressure keeps water from intruding too far up the exhaust tubes.
 
Ok that makes me feel better.

I come off plane rather slow to minimize this effect of the water rolling up over or onto the engine.

Thank you for your insight. I was concerned.
 
The risk of water ingestion is mainly when the engine is being started or when you switch it off at rest. If the engine was sitting too low then when the engine stops if the pistons stop then fall back a bit from TDC then this is the point at which water can be sucked up the exhaust through the exhaust valve and into no.6 . This is not going to happen when the engine is running. However if for example you were going at full throttle and accidentally pulled the killcord then I guess this is perhaps when you may have issues however I still think you would have to be very unlucky for this to happen if you engine is set high enough (which yours certainly is)
 
I understand what you mean. Makes sense....

What about when coming off plane when the water rolls up to the engine, like in these pictures?

Here is when the motor is idling up or at rest.






Then when coming off plane or slowing down the water rolls up to and around where the exhaust is, like in this pic. It would appear that the exhaust ports are completely covered by the rolling water.
I wonder if it could go down the exhaust like in a scenario like this..? This is fairly common with my motor and I wonder every time I take it out will today be the day I have problems. :(


 
That's typical. As Chris said, as long as the engine is running, there is little chance water can get up into the intakes. Don't come off plane too fast and don't stop the engine until you are in calm waters. When I'm fishing off of Hatteras or in the Chesapeake, the motor is not turned off from the time I leave the dock until I return unless I'm in a harbor or it's really a calm day - which is not very often. One other recommendation for keeping water out of the intakes - when you are starting the engine, keep it cranking until it fires up.

BTW - I keep a jar of Vaseline handy on the boat. Every time I remove the cover, I put a new, thin coat of it around the rubber seal. I seems to help in keeping water out of the lower part of the engine, and keeps the rust down. You should also periodically adjust your locking studs on the cover to get a tight seal. My personal rule of thumb is that I adjust them until they only lock when I lean over the engine from the top and have a significant amount of my body weight on the cover.
 
Update one season after SB-56........

I originally decided to take on SB-56 after having problems where my BF225 would not go over 4200rpms. That problem turned out to be a clogged VST and not related to SB-56. Here are my observations 1 season after doing SB-56:
1.) No problems with O2 sensor (was not expecting any). Engine ran fine all season (80 hours).
2.) Previously, the lower 2 plugs had more carbon fowling than the other 4. This year all plugs looked about the same, with some “fowling”.
3.) The lower port plug (#6) was still difficult to get out. Lower starboard (#5) was no problem. I'm thinking that the problem with #6 was due to previous corrosion from 8 seasons without SB-56.

It’s hard to definitively say that it made a significant difference, but I'm glad it was done.

Brian__c
 
Brian,

Roger that - it all sounds good. I make it a habit to remove the plugs and grease the threads at every 100 hour maintenance.
 
Yes, I remove the plugs at the end of every season (replace them every other season) and put anti-seize on the threads.

I also spray a little fogging oil in the Cylinder to try combat any salt water that may have gotten in there. Any opinion on the use of fogging oil? I know its SOP on 2-strokes, but couldn't find much info on if its necessary on 4-strokes?
 
Having a 2002 BF 225 I am currently having the valves replaced due to the idler bearing coming apart seems like now may be a good time to do SB 56. Anyone able to send it to me?
also anyone else have the idler come apart and have the same issue? Engine had less than 400 hours when it happened. Also noticed the forums on the mid shaft bearing. Any advice on how to change that as well?

thanks for any help / advice,
Jmc
 
Having a 2002 BF 225 I am currently having the valves replaced due to the idler bearing coming apart seems like now may be a good time to do SB 56. Anyone able to send it to me?
also anyone else have the idler come apart and have the same issue? Engine had less than 400 hours when it happened. Also noticed the forums on the mid shaft bearing. Any advice on how

to change that as well?

thanks for any help / advice,
Jmc


Do a search good info pn procedure, I have had the pleasure of doing both engines can get puller frpm discount auto for temp use i beleive
I will post link tommoorow. To exact link

Jamie
 
Don't you need an adapter to put the new, smaller, o2 sensor in? I thought you had to change the ecm as well.
 
I'm not sure I'm following this thread correctly, but I think SB#56 was published well before Honda went to the new HO2 sensors (and different ECM.) SB #56 generally applies to the 200/225's manufactured before the spring of 2007, thus they would not address the new HO2 sensors. SB #70 address change outs to the new HO2 sensors for certain serial numbers.

SB# 70 affects these engines:

A2 ~ A5
MODEL FRAME SERIAL NUMBER RANGE
BF200
BAEJ-1000001 ~ 1309999
BAFJ-1000001 ~ 1309999
BF225
BAGJ-1000001 ~ 1309999
BAHJ-1000001 ~ 1309999

Install a new HO2S on any unit with the described
symptom following the procedure starting on page 3.
The H02S Kit cannot be used on A2~A5 units due to
changes in emission standards. Claims submitted for
installation of the HO2S kit on A2~A5 units will be
denied.

A6 and AK0 units:

MODEL FRAME SERIAL NUMBER RANGE
A6 and AK0
BF200
BAEJ-1400001 ~ 1509999
BAFJ-1400001 ~ 1509999
BF225
BAGJ-1400001 ~ 1509999
BAHJ-1400001 ~ 1509999

A new HO2S is available with a higher
heat resistance. The ECM (Engine
Control Module) must also be replaced
because it has been reprogrammed to
accept the new HO2S.
Install a new HO2S kit (A6 ~ AK0 units)
on any unit with the described symptom
following the procedure starting on
page 4.

So, there are two different fixes addressed - one for A2 - A5, the other for A6 - AKO. The latter requires the new HO2 sensor and new ECM. Anyone needing a copy of SB#70 send an e-mail to [email protected].
 
Thanks for clarifying this..I think sb56 is my next project..chawk I will be sending you an email for sb56..thanks for this great forum!
 
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