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chrysler inboard engine

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vice

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hello everybody i`m new here and a have a couple questions about my boat engine. I'm from croatia so please don't judge me about spelling..:eek:

i have inboard chrysler engine v8 5.7 l (350 ci) 260 hp (i thing it is from 1978) for my boat and i want to increase power.Is there any camshaft which increase power (rpm). could you be so kind and tell me also is there any cilinder heads with which i can increase power. what do you suggest to do? can i find a intake manifold for 2 carbs 4 bbl...

 

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It's hard to tell from pics but the engine looks like a chevy. If it is a 350 its not a chrysler.What kind of boat ? lets see a pic of the intake and starter.
Bob
 
here is it...22122011634.jpg22122011637.jpg22122011639.jpg22122011640.jpg22122011641.jpg
i dont have time to put picture of boat now but i will put it as soon as possible. that boat was made by my father. this here is of course all old parts.
 
First of all, welcome to America! Secondly, your English is better than some of the morons who were born here.

That's a Chrysler all right--the intake is a dead giveawy--but I can't tell from the photos if it's a 318 or a 360. If it's a 360, great! Lots of hop up parts are out there. Even mild automobile heads and stock camshaft would be an improvement (assuming what you have is a normal marine engine).

On-line speed shops such as Jeggs and Summit Racing have everything yo need, but ffirst you need to determine wether it is a 318 or a 360.

If you can remove and measure the size of the bolt holding the front damper pulley on, that will tell us. I need the socket size to get the bolt off, not the bolt thread size.

Jeff
 
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i am little confused now because you are asking me is this a 318 or 360 engine that means 5.2 l or 5.9 l am i right? but i have measured and i calculate that this engine have 5.7 l. so could you be so kind and explain me where i am wrong.
 
5.7L would be 350 cu in or close... and would likely be a GM SBC 5.7L.
I'll trust Jeff when he confirmed that it's a Chrysler.
The Chrysler 318/360 are wedge type design combustion chambers, so be careful if you change chamber volumes/piston configurations.
Use Marine specs... not HP Automotive specs.

There is also another potential issue that has not been brought up, and that's the OMC Stringer Drive.
You may want to give this some real careful thought before moving forward.

Yes... ditto, your English is just fine, although I'd like to hear your accent along with it. :)
 
Correct....318 5.2 / 360 5.9 and if you were really lucky you would have
5.6 which is the 340 or 5.57 to be exact. Your just off a few thousanths
here and there.


Jack
 
I measured again and I realized that I have 318 engine 5.2 l. I don´t know why I was thinking that is 5.7 l :confused:. Anyway there is some pictures of boat wich is made in 1986 by my father. Now we decided to reconstruct it and we are working everything alone. first and second picture are old pictures before reconstruction...

DSC00775.jpgDSC00334.jpg03082011422.jpg21072011381.jpg22072011398.jpg25072011409.jpg
 
I can see that there is some sentimental value in this boat to you guys. So I can understand rebuilding it.
If so, please give the Stringer Drive some consideration. This is an obsolete and a problematic drive.

I'd suggest in-filling the transom and making it structural, and install a true stern drive system.

I do not believe that the Chrysler engine was ever mated to a Mercruiser system, so you may be limited to the AQ series Volvo Penta stern drives.... of which is what I'd recommend anyway.
The Chrysler boat company did this (Chrysler 318/360 w/ Volvo Penta drive).... so parts, such as the engine flywheel cover (aka bell housing in the auto world), will mate this engine to the AQ series V/P V-8 drive.
Also the Borg Warner flywheel cover and Volvo Penta PDS adapter housing will get you there.
Either way...... this engine can be made to work with the AQ series V/P drive.

Exhaust manifolds should be easy to find. It may involve a tad bit of engineering, but you can do it.

.
 
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When you say power what you want is low end torque not necessarily horse power.
Here is a link to one of the few cams available for Chrysler marine applications however it is basically what we would call a RV cam used for large recreational vehicles that are heavy and tow things..........like boats for instance. Regardless of whether you have a 318 or 360, any small block
Chrysler cam will perform similarly with either engine using the stock heads. There you'll probably
just want to stick with what you have because any Hi-Po head will be designed for increasing HP but
at the top end were it won't do you much good.

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1543

Jack
 
He'll also want to maintain the correct compression ratio for Marine use.

This is why arbitrarily replacing internal components (in the hands of an inexperience mechanic), can and will cause issues in the Marine applications.
Chevy, Ford, Chrysler..... it applies to most all.
 
It might be time to go with a complete Mercruiser Alpha One/ 250 Chevy package here. You'd be happier in the long run, and not have to worry about getting Stinger parts.

Here's an idea to think on: There's LOTS of boats out there with the above package, boats that are crap otherwise (rotted out interiors from being left out in the weather without being covered). With this economy, and so many boats for sale, you might be able to purchase the entire boat for damn little money, then remove all you need and swap it over.

Jeff
 
I think that you still have a decision to make regarding the Stringer Drive.
Meaning that one way or another, you're likely going to be importing parts..... either for Stringer Drive repairs, or for a complete drive conversion.
I'll cross my fingers that the stringer will get you by for a while.

And yes, Merry Christmas in spite of this!
 
vice said:
no that is not possible here...
Click to expand...

Well then at least save yourself the aggravation and expense of tearing the motor down.
It's natural to want more power and all that but in a boat performance gains are not as easily apparent as you might think and everything is ultimately limited by your prop. If the motor runs it's probably more than sufficient.
 
Mystique mostly.... It's like saying what would would you rather have a Hemi or a 440. The 440 is almost as fast and easier to live with but so what....! 360 is the best bang for the buck and more cubic inches in stock form. 340 and 360 have 4" bores while the 318 has a smaller bore. The 340 stroke is the same as the 318 so if one was to stroke a 340 and 360 with the same crank it would be the same cubes. 340's were higher revving motors designed for sportier models like the original Barracuda's and Dart's. The did throw them in boats for a few years but when the 360's replaced them they turned out to be better suited for marine use because of their increase in torque
 
To Jeff's point in specifying an automotive 340 vs. marine 340.....here's one of the big differences. This is an automotive 340 "X" casting cylinder head (excuse the plastic wrap). Note the monster intake valve (2.02). These were larger than the intake valves on the 360 heads....which are what came on marine 340's. The chamber itself is also smaller than the 360 heads.....meaning higher compression. As 300hb said....they were built to rev.

1969_340_X_Head.jpg
 
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