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How to use Seafoam?

i personally add it to the gas tank.....some people will break the gas line under the cowl and turn motor over and suck it in and then let it set overnight...then hook everything back up and run the engine....expect a lot of smoke etc til the crud and sea foam is gone if you do that.....its a cleaner and a good one..been around forever....if you use it in that crudded up tank in your other entry then you gonna feed crud into the whole fuel system....i will be able to hear you cussing up here in baton rouge....
 
Run your engine up to temp. Remove the spark plugs and tilt the engine all the way up. Now empty a can across all the cylinders evenly and screw the plugs back in. Let it sit for a day or two, preferably two. After the second day remove the plugs a turn the engine over to remove excess fluid. Install the plugs and fire her up. Lots of smoke will come out. You should do a compression test before and after and take note of any change. After this is all done. Get rid of the cheap two cycle oil and by Johnson two cycle oil. Your engine will run better.
 
Its good for any Mercury engine. You need to use Johnson oil. Don't let anyone convince you of anything different.
ok man thanks. I had some one tell me that quicksilver was a great oil to use in the Johnson. guess not. where can i get the Johnson oil?

which oil should i get? there are a few and not sure.
 
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To be honest, XD-30 is junk oil, the lowest 'quality' sold by BPR!! You might as well use any brand, as long as TCW 3 rated, compared to that. If you want to reduce carbon build-up and the need of frequent use of Seafoam/Engine Tuner, go for the XD-50 oil. If you stay with a standard TCW 3 oil, use from time to time Carbon Guard in the fuel as that will reduce carbon build-up as well.
 
Chris

I have as main work motor, a 1978 Evinrude 35 in well loved condition, always used TCW3 oils from all of the major names. Colour is blue.

I have been using the BRP oil for twelve months now as was really cheap at the time. Colour red.

Apart from the colour, I have had no other indication as to being even slightly an advantage.

Motor just keeps on going on same.

I have never used Sea Foam or anything else like it after rebuild 15 years ago.

I sometimes use this

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/msds/0SYNMARINE OUTBOARD TWO STROKE OIL.pdf

MSDS for BRP?

Just my experience Mate.

B
 
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Well everyone has there own opinions on what oil to use. A good percentage of boat owners look at me like I have two heads when I tell them to run the manufactures oil, because they were told that all TCW-3 oil is the same. By the end of the boating season they all say the same thing "My engine never ran so good" and "The black goo is no longer coming out of my exhaust".
 
Well everyone has there own opinions on what oil to use. A good percentage of boat owners look at me like I have two heads when I tell them to run the manufactures oil, because they were told that all TCW-3 oil is the same. By the end of the boating season they all say the same thing "My engine never ran so good" and "The black goo is no longer coming out of my exhaust".

On my many trips to the old OMC Belgian factory, I noticed barrels of 2-stroke oil. Not marked OMC, but Caltex, BP, Shell and whatever brand you could think of. The answer was simple: They ordered from the cheapest supplier at the moment, just had the color and 'perfume' right. The base oil, just an approved TCW 2/3 rating depending on which bottle they put it in. To make it 'worse', visit any lube oil factory/refinery. You will find the same mix of barrels, but mainly one base oil tank. The identity is by adding perfume and color to the right barrel! This goes for normal TCW2/3 oils and not the formulated like XD-50 and XD-100 that contains different additives and are partly or fully synthetic.
 
This is interesting reading from NMMA with some PDF docs as well. I know that every group, or individual boater, has his or her prefered oil and will defend it to the hilt. The list of surpliers vses the actual refiner is interesting.

http://www.nmma.org/certification/certification/oil/tc-w3.aspx

Found MSDS for SeaFoam (This site has instructions as well)

http://www.seafoamsales.com/msds-downloads.html

This is a good discussion.

If your motor is A1, and the mix is correct, may I say that black runny goo everywhere will never happen? I painted the inside of my prop red. When it is out of the water, if stained, I investigate. So far, always red clean paint with no oil residue to the touch.

B
 
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If you want to see a perfectly good engine get filled with residual crap left over from unburned additives, Use Pennzoil TCW-3 from Wal-mart.
 
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This is interesting reading from NMMA with some PDF docs as well. I know that every group, or individual boater, has his or her prefered oil and will defend it to the hilt. The list of surpliers vses the actual refiner is interesting.

http://www.nmma.org/certification/certification/oil/tc-w3.aspx
http://www.seafoamsales.com/msds-downloads.html

B

It is actually not a list of refiners but a list of brand names and marketing company. Neither BRP or Mercury Marine refines or even mixes their own oil. However they need to have the brand on the label certified, and if would for sure not look good running under Shell, Exon or any other certificate.
Some oils smoke more, some smoke less. Quite often those smoking less contains less amount of 'flamable substance', read kerosine. The smoking ones often gives more carbon deposits in exhaust and combustion chambers than those without smoke, as they simply does not burn any oil, but let it out with the exhaust. These are often oils where customers 'complain' about oil-leakage in propeller center after running on muffs. Did some tests very long time ago by running engines in test tanks with different kind of oils. The non-smokers rather quick left an oil-sludge in the test tank, the smoking ones much less. As oil is mixed in volume units, it is all a question what you want to pollute: The air with smoke or the sea with oil. Most trolling people prefer the non-smokers, however they may leave some oil residue in lakes which may not be too popular.
The above mainly goes about mineral oil types, when you go synthetic it is possible to play with flame point etc to get more or less burning of the oil.
Most additives are about increasing or decreasing combustion temperature and thus burn more or less of the oil. Some manufacturers add it in the oil, some sell it as accessories to add to fuel like the Carbon Guard from OMC/BPR. Running on XD-30 with Carbon Guard in the fuel or XD-50 will give about the same result. The difference is in one case it is in the oil, in the other you have to mix it in the fuel yourself.
 
Bottom line. Buy your oil from any major mfgs. of outboards. BRP, Mercury or Yamaha. They have the proper addatives in them because they don't want any mtr failures. I still like BRP Engine Tuner for carbon removal if the directions on the can are followed. Always had good luck with it.
 
What is the most effective 'cleaner' for carbon build-up?
WATER!!
Some of you have for sure removed heads and found a piston in 'out of the box' condition and the rest more or less gunked up.
In most of these cases it has to do with water ingress into the combustion chamber increasing the temp and burning off whatever carbon left!!
Unfortunately water is not a good lubricant and controlling the temp increase not easy as well.
Back in the late 70's I used to build the racing engines for Archimedes Penta, later Volvo Penta at the factory in Upsala , Sweden. At that time water injection was somewhat 'legal', but the max we could do was about 20 seconds before melt-down! In those 20 sec we managed to pull out about 20-30% more power compared to normal running. As this method is not recommended to use by any Tom -Dxxx and Harry, the de-carbs were introduced.
What they all do is increase the combustion temperature and ADD lubrication. Almost 50% of the contents of Sea Foam and Engine Tuner is 'Pale Oil'. An oil that has increased flame point and does not burn at the high temps created like the normal 2-stroke will do. The rest is additives that are supposed to soak into the carbon build-up and 'explode' off the carbon when temp increases.
In order to get the maximum effect out of the treatment, it is important to follow the instructions to the letter.
-Warm up the engine to max temp. (this gives running on idle in gear, at least an rpm below what makes the by-pass valve open)
-With the carbon deposits at max temp, dry and porous, get as much as possible into the combustion chamber THROUGH the carbs. This will leave the added lubrication where it is needed later, on crank bearings and piston skirts.
- Let the solution soak into the carbon deposits, but not too long as some of the active additives that increases the temp might evaporate and temp-increase is lost.
-Restart the engine and immediately throw in gear and rev to about 50% load (NB:Boat in water, not on muffs!!!)
As soon as the engine clears out and runs smooth, give it full power for some time.

Mixing Sea Foam in the fuel (unless the fuel additive type), will have less/minor effect as it gets no time to soak into the carbon deposits. Fuel additives like Carbon Guard have a similar effect, but they mainly increase the combustion temp. Using this, do NOT overdose as you do not have the extra lubrication for protection.
 
Now that this question original has been done, I would just like to do this if no one minds.

I mentioned that if everything with a motor was A1 and mix with some good oil that there would be no indication inside the prop....................and, as I said, I painted mine red.

I pulled up behind a boat trailer at the local servo and the motor prop was right in front of me....totally black soot (Dry) in the prop exhaust. It was a 25 merc thing tiller steer about 1999 vintage. I asked the guy filling with fuel, what he used as oil. His reply was not really seasons greetings but he said "anything".

Ho Hum, back to the pic below...........I am just about to pull the prop as part of anual service to my motor so it has been on there, untouched for twelve months with fresh water use only.

Yes, I do everything including electrics check every year so do not whinge as australia has no lay up season so it gets used a lot. About 340 litres of fuel anually.

If your prop inside is this clean................you, or, your marine shop techs are doing everything correct.

Sorry about extending the subject.......

28122011487.jpg


Regards

B
 
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