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Stringer????

nicknack2

Regular Contributor
Hello guys I'm very new to this inboard /sterndrive world, me and my buddy are working on his boat he just bought it; 1982 searay Seville w/a 2.5 OMC at this point we have fired the motor it starts and runs good on the "ear muffs " but we are going to rebuild the carb. Like I said we don't know much about inboards what are something to watchout for on this set ups? Is this a stringer? I heard they have bad reputation...one thing for sure the trim and tilt system does not operate the lower unit stays up when you try to lower it the relay on the port side of the motor just clicks.
 
yes, it is a stringer mounted drive system. I can't think of anything specific to the 2.5 to watch for.
The tilt system is what tips the drive.
The trim system is incorporated into the front engine mount.

If the drive is tilted up, you should not be running the engine!
You will destroy the ball gears. Only run the engine when the drive is fully down against the intermediate.
 
Welcome!

I'd start by cleaning all the wire connections on that side of the engine, or all of them. Then, make sure your battery is tops.
 
With the drive up you are not getting water to the motor and as posted the ball gears will go quick.First you need a manual.# 3400 seloc upper right hand corner or a original factory manual.
Here is a link for fixing your drive tilt.

[h=2]How to fix stringer tilt problems![/h]
So you have a stringer out drive that won't tilt up, or it tilts up very slowly, or you need to help it up physically. Maybe it doesn't move at all.

Here is a step bye step guide to fixing it. A manual would be very helpful.

1- A fully charged battery is imperative.

2- Disconnect the battery and clean the battery posts. Are the cables good?

3- With the battery disconnected, clean all the connections on the port side, solenoids. Don't forget the grounds.

4- Clean connections to tilt motor. Two wires.

5- Connect the battery.

6- On the out drive port side, there is a clutch housing. Four screws hold on
cover. Pull that cover. May be full of water. They all leak.

Two things you can do at this time.

A- Clean out the housing with clutch installed.

B- Remove the clutch and rebuild the housing. New seals.

If you chose A, Spray the clutch with brake cleaner. Make sure it's as clean as you can get it. You might have to spray it a few times. Blow it dry. Spray the the clutch with penetrating oil. Pack the housing with grease, and install cover. Don't over tighten the screws, can bind the clutch.

If you chose B, remove all the components of the gear housing. Soak everything in Acetone overnight. Rebuild housing, new seals. Blow dry the parts, soak them all in motor oil for a hour or two. Install parts. Pack the housing with grease. I know it calls for 30 weight motor oil. Trust me pack it with grease. Install cover.

7- Gently pry off the rubber bumpers. Don't mix them up, pump grease in the zerks. Install bumpers.

At this point the drive should move up and down easy. If it doesn't, you need to pull the tilt motor. Test motor and replace or rebuild. Make sure the hammer blow coupler is good or replace. Don't forget the gasket, on the tilt motor. .

Good luck!

Above is copied and pasted here from another website.... Chief Alen is the author
 
Thanks guys, I wont run the motor with the drive in the up positon. Is there a way to manually Lower or raise the drive? Guys I have been doing lots of research on this motor/drive setup and I keep finding bad reports for the most part and I starting to wonder if its a good idea to put money in to this boat...please give me some advice
 
See the half moon gear, support the drive somehow i jam a piece of wood in the large opening, remove the half moon gear and now you can raise and lower the drive manually. 9/16ths flat should fit it.
 
.......... Guys I have been doing lots of research on this motor/drive setup and I keep finding bad reports for the most part and I starting to wonder if its a good idea to put money in to this boat...please give me some advice
There is no way to sugar coat this for you........ The Stringer Drive is a terrible design.

If you love the hull, and are up for a project, the transom could be in-filled for a true stern drive.
Perhaps find a dead donar boat for the parts needed.

Volvo Penta would be my first choice..... Merc second.

.
 
There is no way to sugar coat this for you........ The Stringer Drive is a terrible design.

If you love the hull, and are up for a project, the transom could be in-filled for a true stern drive.
Perhaps find a dead donar boat for the parts needed.

Volvo Penta would be my first choice..... Merc second.

.

I agree. Stop before you get into this boat too far. Either change the engine and drive or get another boat (Without an OMC drive, any OMC drive).
 
Is this boat similar?

0021106_385X290_A_L.jpg


Here is page for this search.

Like said, if you like the hull, it may be worth doing.
The in-fill is nothing more than carpentry work with fiberglass work mixed in with it.
 
the solution to a clicking tilt relay is to fill in the transom and re-power it? lol, must be winter...
 
what I found on mine when the tilt wouldn't work , was a cracked relay,AND the tilt motor was very dirt and gummed up inside. removed and took to my local automotive alternator starter rebuilder, he cleaned it out dressed the brushes and commutator. cost me $12.00, and workes great
 
@RicardoMarine that pic looks exacly like the boat.

@Mikey b. I did some testing and I'm sure the problem is one of the relay, as I was able to put power directly to trim motor and work the trim up and down no problem that way, now what kind of test can I do to find out which one of the four relay is the one that is bad???
 
Got me lost Master Mechanic...I haven’t seen any solenoids, where do they come into play? Now, what I refer to trim/tilt is the parts that makes the lower unit go up and down... that is controlled by the switch on the throttle right? I was under the impression that there are four relays which activate the up or down motion, please enlight me because I might be wrong/lost…
 
relay = solenoid

the two terms are interchangeable for the same device in my experience.

solenoid usually implies heavier current, and more of a cylindrical design
 
Not sure that I agree with all of that!

Solenoid is also associated with an electro-mechanical device... meaning that it may serve as a push/pull device with no contact switching at all.
Operating a valve or a clamping device, for example.

For a non-Bendix type starter motor, a solenoid serves as both contactor and kick-out.

But I do agree that if a cylindrical electro-magnetic unit provides contact, then it would fit into the solenoid switch category.
If it's a magnetic arm style point contactor, with no other function....., it's likely considered a relay.

I suppose that I'm splitting hairs here, aren't I? :)

Come on spring time... I think we need some boating weather!
 
The throttle arm on this boat has actually two toggle switches that appear to control the trim and tilt, as you position your hand on the throttle there is one right where your thumb would rest on the throttle control and one on the other side (right side or starboard side of the controller) would that mean that there two different switches one for tilt and one for trim???
 
You really need to buy a manual if you continue to work on the drive and motor.
Below is a post copied and pasted here; Chief Alen is the author:
[h=2]How to fix stringer tilt problems![/h]
So you have a stringer out drive that won't tilt up, or it tilts up very slowly, or you need to help it up physically. Maybe it doesn't move at all.

Here is a step bye step guide to fixing it. A manual would be very helpful.

1- A fully charged battery is imperative.

2- Disconnect the battery and clean the battery posts. Are the cables good?

3- With the battery disconnected, clean all the connections on the port side, solenoids. Don't forget the grounds.

4- Clean connections to tilt motor. Two wires.

5- Connect the battery.

6- On the out drive port side, there is a clutch housing. Four screws hold on
cover. Pull that cover. May be full of water. They all leak.

Two things you can do at this time.

A- Clean out the housing with clutch installed.

B- Remove the clutch and rebuild the housing. New seals.

If you chose A, Spray the clutch with brake cleaner. Make sure it's as clean as you can get it. You might have to spray it a few times. Blow it dry. Spray the the clutch with penetrating oil. Pack the housing with grease, and install cover. Don't over tighten the screws, can bind the clutch.

If you chose B, remove all the components of the gear housing. Soak everything in Acetone overnight. Rebuild housing, new seals. Blow dry the parts, soak them all in motor oil for a hour or two. Install parts. Pack the housing with grease. I know it calls for 30 weight motor oil. Trust me pack it with grease. Install cover.

7- Gently pry off the rubber bumpers. Don't mix them up, pump grease in the zerks. Install bumpers.

At this point the drive should move up and down easy. If it doesn't, you need to pull the tilt motor. Test motor and replace or rebuild. Make sure the hammer blow coupler is good or replace. Don't forget the gasket, on the tilt motor. .

Good luck!
 
......... One system for trimming the motor up and down !
Ah, the ole stringer drive analogy with regard to "Trim the Engine UP".
How many times have you heard an actual "stern drive" owner say: "Trim the Engine up?"
This is where that comes from! :D

Back to the clutch unit;
Of the ones that offer an adjustable clutch pack, be very careful when loosening the cross rod tension screw.
Many times these will also be rusted and will be very easy to snap off or round out the hex head.
Not many will mention the risks here when these are severely corroded or rusted.
Heat this up a bit before you attempt to loosen this adjusting screw.
Although not mentioned here, See this video.

I like Chief's grease idea, but note that grease will adhere to and bond much better to dry parts, than it will on oily parts.
I'd suggest blowing these parts dry before applying any grease.
If the clutch plates perform better with oil, then you may want to treat these separately.

.
 
Thanks for all the above guys. I just got my seal kit in the mail, and will start on my tilt issues soon. This is perfect timing. I also have a manual, but it's always good to see the comments by the experts out there.
 
So what switch is to the trim and which one for the tilt? Which set of selenoids activate the tilt and which one the trim?
 
So the motor actually tilts up and down??? And the trim moves the lower unit up and down???

no, the opposite of that

tilt lifts the drive for trailering
trimming is done with engine front mount for bow angle while operating the boat

trim switch is on the shift/throttle control
tilt is on the dash usually - wherever the boat builder thought it would look nice

here's a schematic with all the wire colours for tilt :
http://hhscott.com/evinrude/images/wiring/73_OMC_V8_all_big.jpg

trim system wiring has white strinpe on the wire and smaller gauge - just follow the wires
 
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Put power right to the motor, motor makes lower unit go up and down, when i use the switch the solenoid just clicks any one knows how to test the solenoid??? or do i should just buy new solenoids???
 
This makes no sense.... if I jump or joint the red wire (12v) to either of the wires that go to the tilt motor nothing happens, however if I come straight from the battery (+) post the motor will activate and the lower unit will go up or down, howcome the red wire (12v) will not activate the motor, Im pulling my hair, it does not makes any sense.
 
check it with a meter or a test light.

probably a blown 50A power fuse, or a bad connection somewhere in the harness.

if your solenoids click, don't replace them. click is what they are supposed to do.
 
What is a power fuse?, now with a bad connection I would not be getting 12v, which I do, but if I just don't get how come the motor wont activate by jumping from the 12v to the blue or green, but if I get a hot wire straight from the battery the motor will activated.
 
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