Stringer????

nicknack2 said:

now with a bad connection I would not be getting 12v, which I do,

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depends how bad the connection is

showing voltage on a meter is one thing- 1 half rotted strand of wire barely hanging on can accomplish that
Or, A 9V battery and two AA batteries in series will show 12V on your meter.... won't make your tilt motor turn

carrying the 40 Amperes of current needed to turn the tilt motor requires a nice clean, healthy, meaty run of copper from the battery, to the shiny corrosion free lugs of the relay, and down to the motor.

There are two black plastic barrel shaped fuse holders on your engine somewhere that distribute power to the tilt relays. The fuse in there likes to rust. Cleaning with steel wool or replacing and cleaning the holder is regular annual service on stringer OMC's.
The 50A fuse can be bought at a car stereo shop or any Evinrude dealer (e.g. marineengine.com).

It is also possible that the relays are bad, but 2 don't generally fail simultaneously... and if they're clicking, the control side is all good.

Found the problem for the tilt... there is a wire that comes from the sarter that supplys the 12 V to the solenoids main supply so the wire has some kind of fuse that the previous owner had blown an instead of replacing it he had it rigged, well there was a short there so the tilt tilts up and down now, now I'm going to start on the trim. Any one knows where I can buy the fuse and also the part #?

Any ideas or tricks of the the trade for replacing the transom seal on the same boat I'm working on?

@Haystat, you are right on the money it was exactly what you described above. Now the trim and the transoms seal...LOL

transom seal is easy
remove outdrive
remove old seal
install new seal

make sure you get the clamp around the intermediate nice and straight and not twisted or crooked about the only tip I have.

and use some 5 minute epoxy or marinetex on any retaining ring screws that are not nice and snug when removed from the transom

some use RTV on the seal against the transom ( I like permatex copper) , but OMC used none - clean and dry.

Haysat when you say the outdrive you mean the whole lower unit???

nicknack2 said:

Haysat when you say the outdrive you mean the whole lower unit???

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I mean the whole outdrive:


Lower Unit is this:

Nice, thanks you are really taking me to school!!! Thanks

Stringer outdrives are well thought out well engineered well built units. So what's the problem with the tilt? Very very very simple! Aftermarket clutch cover gaskets were made TO THIN - so you must use 2 or three to get the proper amount of pressure on the tilt clutch assembly. Is this YOUR problem? - very easy way to check - loosen (or tighten - if clutch slipping) the cover screws 1/4 to 1/2 turn - sometimes more. Then try your tilt. If it solves the problem add or subtract gaskets to get the proper pressure on the clutch. If this fails make sure the internal clutch shims aren't missing or worn or doubled up. The advantages of this system are drive protection in the event of a collision with a log. Been there - done that - no damage at 30 MPH. You can raise your drive completely for in water prop replacement. The out drive will stay up for towing without the use of a prop up bar. A great setup for a stainless steel prop. - protects outdrives from log strikes better than other systems. Downside - you have put your drives all the way down before starting and running your motor. You have to read and follow the operations manual.

Stringer outdrives are well thought out well engineered well built units. So what's the problem with the tilt? Very very very simple! Aftermarket clutch cover gaskets were made TO THIN - so you must use 2 or three to get the proper amount of pressure on the tilt clutch assembly. Is this YOUR problem? - very easy way to check - loosen (or tighten - if clutch slipping) the cover screws 1/4 to 1/2 turn - sometimes more. Then try your tilt. If it solves the problem add or subtract gaskets to get the proper pressure on the clutch. If this fails make sure the internal clutch shims aren't missing or worn or doubled up. The advantages of this system are drive protection in the event of a collision with a log. Been there - done that - no damage at 30 MPH. You can raise your drive completely for in water prop replacement. The out drive will stay up for towing without the use of a prop up bar. A great setup for a stainless steel prop. - protects outdrives from log strikes better than other systems. Downside - you have put your drives all the way down before starting and running your motor. You have to read and follow the operations manual.

Stumps------You are replyoing / trying to help on a post that is 6 years old.----These folks have moved along !

racerone said:

Stumps------You are replying / trying to help on a post that is 6 years old.----These folks have moved along !

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Not only is this thread from back in December of 2011, the OMC Stringer Drive is partially responsible for the failure and eventual bankruptcy of OMC.
In my opinion, it was a terrible design from the get-go!



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