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Mercury 50 hp, 4 cyl, 1984 Model, Switchbox Question

... it would not even fire.
Back to square one...does it have good spark? Is it bright blue and able to jump 7/16" gap? I found out recently that my 115 hp starts faster w/93 octane Shell pure gas.
 
have you disconnected the kill switch under the cowl as fastjeff recommended early in the discussion?note:you will have no kill switch when you do this...
 
And throwing out that tilt switch attached to that same black/ yellow tracer wire.

Jeff
I am going to disconnect the upstream side of the tilt switch right now. I disconnected the ground side of the tilt switch previously. Should I take the entire wire to the control box out as well? This motor is absolutely mechanically sound, however there is an intermittent electrical issue. I wish I could solve it. I know this is a long thread to read though. However, I keep the dialogue going because I know there is an answer out there somewhere. HELP!!!! I want to go fishing.

Dave
 
have you disconnected the black yellow wire under the cowl yet?i dont see where you said you did.....3 people have recommended it in this dialogue......
 
have you disconnected the black yellow wire under the cowl yet?i dont see where you said you did.....3 people have recommended it in this dialogue......

I disconnected the Black-Yellow wire from the Switch box tonight. Before I did that I checked the internal harness for any defects or anomalies. I cleaned the harness and redressed it. After getting it back together the motor fired right up and ran like it should. However, I could not shut it off with the turn key. I had to choke it to stall it out. With that said, is my electrical problem with the internal harness or the control harness? I am close to a solution here. At least I got it running. Any suggestions on where to go from here. I am close. Thanks for all your help out there.

Dave
 
Dave:

You need to be more aggressive when these things happen. Two things are needed for that motor to start: gas and spark. You need to check for BOTH when this hapens so you'll know where to begin.

It's entirely possible that the safety tilt switch crapped out on you--I toss them all out! But you need to check for spark to see if that's what the problem is; gas or spark.

Jeff
 
we need to stop and regroup here....before we proceed i have a question:has there been any wiring changes or additions been made in the controls for this boat?....assuming a no answer and assuming the motor runs and will run with the kill switch wire disconnected then i would say the problem is either a ground or short on that wire or a problem in the controls...the first check is to make sure you have no voltage on that wire that is disconnected under the cowl that goes to the kill switch...no voltage....start at the 20v scale and if it read nothing then turn it down to the lowest scale...any voltage here will cost you a switchbox sooner or later..... the way the kill switch work is to ground this wire to kill the engine when the normally open kill switch is activated...this is the problem that we can see and should be fixed first...dont jump to other issues at this point....
 
we need to stop and regroup here....before we proceed i have a question:has there been any wiring changes or additions been made in the controls for this boat?....assuming a no answer and assuming the motor runs and will run with the kill switch wire disconnected then i would say the problem is either a ground or short on that wire or a problem in the controls...the first check is to make sure you have no voltage on that wire that is disconnected under the cowl that goes to the kill switch...no voltage....start at the 20v scale and if it read nothing then turn it down to the lowest scale...any voltage here will cost you a switchbox sooner or later..... the way the kill switch work is to ground this wire to kill the engine when the normally open kill switch is activated...this is the problem that we can see and should be fixed first...don't jump to other issues at this point....

you are absolutely correct papyson. I am on the right track here and very close to a solution. I am going to look at the harness around where the control cable enters the cowling. This is a very high stress point with all the flexing from the motor turning. I believe that somewhere in the control harness a wire is damaged causing an intermittent failure. The motor sometimes shuts off at speed and sometimes it will not start. I look forward to more feedback.

One more question for you papyson. When the key is in the on position and the motor running, what does the control do to this when the key is turned off? It must short it to ground, right?
 
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when the key is in the run position no two terminals are connected....when you turn it off then the two terminals are connected and grounds out you ignition....i dont have the specs or diagram for your engine but the two terminals that are shorted are either two ''m'' terminal or one ''m'' and one ''i''......... lets trouble shoot this problem instead of jumping around and doing two or three things at once...there is a good chance on a problem such as this that you will run the problem off and call it fixed....and it will not be fixed...it will only come back and bite your butt later...now a question...where did you disconnect the kill wire?..under the cowl or disconnect what you think is it on the switch....you said the motor run but as i understand it the problem was intermittent before...so did you do the voltage check as requested?..... connect a meter to this wire at the motor end and check for voltage as described in prior entry... then with everything connected in your controls check this wire for ground with the kill switch lanyard in place..i suspect you have a intermittent short in your control box....when i say control box i am talking about where you key and shift lever is at...you also didnt answer the question about any wiring changes or additions in this area...
 
Sorry I have been disconnected with this thread for awhile.

I did do the voltage check to the control and it was zero(no voltage). I went though the under cowl wiring with a fine tooth comb. Took the throttle control mechanism apart and looked for any obvious issues. I found none. There have been been no wiring changes to this motor that I know of, at least I have not done them. I looks like techs have been there but no obvious retrofits. I took the boat out today for a few hours and the motor ran flawlessly. Cold started with a single choke and never sputtered or skipped a beat during the outing. I stress tested it with starting and stopping. If it runs like that I'll love it. Crabbing on the Chesapeake next week. I hope. Any responses?
 
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