trouble shooting M70 B

Gonna try to make this as short as possible.I have a M70B that was sunk back in March.Did the usual such as flush out cylinders.etc. etc. It ran fine up until recently.Lost all fire and took to dealer.He said my stator went out.Think he replaced with used stator unit to help keep costs down.Got boat back home but was still not 100%. It had weak response and had to trim down to plane and then trim back up to get 25MPH at 4000 RPM.Usually runs about 38MPH at 5400 Rpm. I found bad coil and replaced.Ordered repair manual and test meter.Found timing off,according to manual,about 5 degrees.cleaned carbs,and performed ignition tests.Took boat out and response was good but could only get about 32MPH at 4900 RPM.Would blow out if I tried to gain more RPM's.Better, but still not 100%.My manual is a Clymer which came with a supplemental for the peak voltage and ohms tests.Want get deep into the reasons why, but it appears some of supplemental is right and some is wrong.Book appears to be same way.Wish I had found Tohatsu book first!Compression test is good,at 118PSI to121PSI.Foot seems okay and is not believed to be putting strain on engine. My book (supplemental) says pulser coils should be 162V to 405V and I'm getting 104V on all three.A few volts(5-10) lower might not worry me but this seems like a large gap if indeed my book is right.Now for my questions. (1)Should I look further at pulser coils?(2)Even if my CDI is showing correct peak voltage, could it be firing out of time and/or intermittenly and is there a way to test for this?(3)Can someone send me the ohms and peak voltage specs for ignition tests?(4)Anyone have any ideas for further troubleshooting.I don't believe engine speed limiter is problem because it is running well over half speed and RPM's, but thinking about pulling limiter connection for test run.
Sorry for such a long post but about to pull hair out !Thank everyone in advance for any advice/ideas or information.
KR308

That motor does not have a stator; It uses exciters and pulsers to charge and trigger the CD. The ohm checks are part of a fairly large/complex table; best to get the Factory service manual for the 3- and 4-cylinder 2-stroke Tohatsu motors from a dealer. I've never seen a pulser triggering at 405 volts, BTW, so your manual seems incorrect. I would run through the link and sync one more time. What do you mean by "it would blow out if you tried to give it more RPM's?" That sounds like you may still be a little off time, so re-checking the link and sync is in order. The only way to actually see the output waveform from the CD would be with an ignition analyzer, such as an old merc-o-tronic, or one of the modern, multi-cylinder oscilloscope-type units, which few home mechanics will have access to. The ESG is built-in to the CD, so nothing to disconnect to check the RPM limiter. Recommended max RPM at WOT is 4900-5600, so you are close. That 5400 you used to get would be better if you can get it. Is the prop perfect? A small issue there could sap those few hundred RPM's.

Paul
Thank you for your quick reply.Man did I mess up on some information tho.It was 104 OHMS (not volts)on my pulser coils and manual says 125-275 ohms is specs.Read my notes wrong.Peak voltage on pulsers was okay.What I meant by "it would blow out if I tried to get more RPM's"was,if I tried to get more RPM's than 4900 by TRIMMING UP I would eventually blow prop out of water.Also,I didn't think it was actually a stator but thats what shop owner called it.Recleaned carbs since last run.Had cleaned them BEFORE last run but they sat without any gas for a few days and even tho I had sprayed them with cleaner and ports with air some of the carb dunk had pooled and set up like tar in carbs!Suspected this because chokes had gummed and would not work with solenoid alone.I have been thru the linc and sync again before I wrote first post but haven't been to test it yet.The prop is same prop I have always ran.You said there was nothing to disconnect to check the RPM limiter.Don't take me wrong for what I'm about to say because I definitely respect your knowledge and experience and love reading your replies to others.Anyway, my CDI has two black/yellow wires that come out of CDI box and connect only to each other with the Tohatsu style male to female connectors.My manual claims this will take out the RPM limiter if disconnected.The motor will run if they are disconnected as I have tried it while on water ear muffs.As I talked about in first post I'm not sure how well I can trust my manual.If these wires are not breaking the RPM limiter circuit could you tell me what they do?I will trust your answer more than my manual,and yes,I'm definitely gonna find me a Tohatsu manual!!!One more question I have is what should peak voltage be for my CDI to ignition coil test.All three are reading 200 volts and manual says 130 volts is specs.One coil is brand new.
Thank you again Paul for your help.It is great that you and others will take time out of their day to help others who don't have the knowledge and /or experience you all have.
KR308

KR,

I suspect that once you have the carbs running right, you will be back up to speed. In our shop, once the carbs come out of the bath, we immediately wash them with generic aerosol carb spray, so residue isn't an issue.

Yes, you can disengage the ESG by opening those 2 wires. OK to try it, but I doubt that's your issue. The ESG is extremely reliable, and when it engages, you feel the staggered-ignition rev limiting -- the motor gets rough. Plus, it should never engage below 5700. Ideally, it engages at 5950.

Be careful when taking ohm readings. Analyze what you see, and take the numbers with a grain of salt You must use a good analog meter. Not a digital unit, and never one with a battery voltage of more than 3vdc. The analog meters have more milliamps of drive to the circuit under test, so give more of a real-life test. Test voltages over 3 can damage the expensive CD module. Inductor coils (such as the exciters and triggers) have notoriously wide ohm tolerances. Sometimes more than +/- 25%. 104 ohms sounds fine. Likewise, the meter should have a DVA capability, to capture the short peak pulse that triggers the ignition coils. 200v is OK there as well; actually quite nice and strong.

Paul
Haven't had a chance to run boat since recleaning carbs and others tasks may keep me busy for awhile.Did crank and run on water ears to help flush carb dunk.Used different brand this time too.Used sta-bil and also drained carbs after running.Will let you know how it goes when I finally get chance to run.Once again thank you for your help and input.
Kevin

Paul
Haven't had a chance to run boat since recleaning carbs and others tasks may keep me busy for awhile.Did crank and run on water ears to help flush carb dunk.Used different brand this time too.Used sta-bil and also drained carbs after running.Will let you know how it goes when I finally get chance to run.Once again thank you for your help and input.
Kevin