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Swapping Powerhead 1988 Force 125

Thats what I thought. Which makes it even harder to believe that they sent me the wrong impeller, and now want me to measure my shaft. Which by the way, is .88 inches, FYI.

I had no problem getting the first impeller.
 
Hey, guess what......my gear case is a newer one, 90's. That's why the impeller was wrong. I guess the 80's water pump housing is aluminum, 90's are brown plastic, like mine. The shafts on the 90's motors are a little bigger than the 80's. That's what I've been told.....
 
I had no problem getting the first impeller.[/QUOTE]

That's because I brought my water pump to the guy that sold me the impeller....he didn't bother to tell me that it wasn't from a 1988...
 
What is the torque for the lower unit to leg housing bolts? 6 of them 1/2"?
What is the torque for head bolts? Want to re-torque the head.....
What is the torque for the powerhead mounting nuts and bolts?
 
Installed the new thermostat with new gasket and seal. Cleaned up the water tube and re-installed with new water seal and lower grommet. Installed the powerhead onto the motor housing, it was freakin heavy. And yes, I remembered to install the shaft! Also hooked up the shift / throttle linkage before calling it a night at 1:30am.

Still have carbs, wiring to do.

Pictures are destroyed lower grommet, installed water tube with new seal, installed lower grommet, and destroyed water seal with shiny cleaned up brass water tube.
 

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Go to iboats.com Force Repair section. http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=431021 The first post it has a post by FrankA Called a linc and sinc.
DO THIS!!!!!! It will help keep the motor running right.
When you set the carbs??? The air screw is out 1 and 1/16th turn until your ready for final adjustment.
Most piston damage is from having the carbs set wrong.Wrong oil/fuel ratio.The fuel recirc system clogged.
Overheat too.J
 
Carbs are back on. Adjusted float levels, new gaskets, linked. Printed the "link n sync" post to do when I get it on the water and running. Getting new fuel lines. Do I need some special "boat" fuel line or is fuel line from the auto store just fine?
 

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Do the linc and sinc before you start. And yes any new hose is ok.
Some hoses have been setting on the shelf for a while.Make sure it's made in this or last year.
Anything older might be no good with ethenol.J
 
I linked and synced, but there are some more things to adjust, idle, final air mix, that I cannot do until the motor is running. I have it in the garage on the boat for all this work I'm doing......I'll wait until I get it outside again, which I will do once I get the trim situation fixed. I'm working on it now with rritts online help.
 
Started replacing the fuel delivery lines. Got some nice Gates 1/4" fuel line. However I couldn't finish tonight because there is a difference in hose size at the quick connect fitting. Out of the boat the hose is 5/16". It goes into the squeeze bulb at 5/16". It leaves the squeeze bulb at 5/16". It then goes into a quick connect fittng at 5/16". On the other side of the quick connect it changes to 1/4", as are the rest of the motors fittings. That is all fine, I happen to have some 5/16" here at home. But the quick connect on the 1/4" side is pressed on to the old hose, can't use it, need a new quick connect with 5/16" in and 1/4" out. Does any of this sound familiar? Is this a normal set up?
And check out those carb covers, real beauts right? Need a couple replacements.
Also in the cover pic is the quick connect that was removed.
 

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I might have a set of covers.Let me look(if I can remember)after fishing this AM.
I got rid of the quick connects completly.I had to buy fittings for the tank and the water sep but it's a NO problem setup.
The quick connects are a weak spot eventually leaking and not really needed.
You might want to rebuild the starter.I see it still has the manufacture date on the side.
 
I did take the starter apart and cleaned it all up. Seems to be fine for now. You have a water separator?
 
Yes,a water sep is a MUST on boats these days with the Ethanol were burning.
If you let it set any length of time it forms condensation and a filter really helps.
Wally world has a good one.They can be emptied and re-used.They generally last 2-3 years and then replace the whole thing as the paint and alum.get pitted.JJ
 
Installed the fuel separater and remaining fuel lines. All went in real easy, cost about $95 total with new clamps. All I need now is to get the valve body for the tilt figured out.
 

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Sent my trim valve body to Rritt for a rebuild. Hopefully should have it back in a couple weeks. Then it's make sure it starts in the driveway, and off to the boat launch for a first test run on this beast. Now things are starting to get exciting....
 
I got the valve body back today from rritt. Looks brand spankin new. I Need to get a new inner "do-nut spring" type seal for the motor shaft. I think 3/4 outside and 5/16th inside? Anyone know what I'm talking about and where to get one?
 
OK, so I installed the rebuilt valve body and got everything hooked back up. It did indeed completely stop the leak down. Nice. However, now I think the tilt cylinder needs help. If I leave the motor at about half tilt, it will lift itself the rest of the way at the push of the button. But if the motor is completely down, it will not lift it. The tilt motor just keeps running, which I think means the oil is leaking past the o-rings in the tilt cylinder. Yes, I filled and thoroughly bled the system.
Anybody replaced the o-rings on the inside of the tilt cylinder, and can they be replaced without removing the tilt cylinder from the boat?
 
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Leak down test for the cylinder.
Will need to buy.3/16in. inverted flare(female) and a 1/8 plug.
Tilt and block motor up.

Remove the first line on the side(first of 3)(not the single on the bottom).

Install the fittings.

Remove the block.

The motor should stay up if the tilt ram is good.
If it leaks down then, the seals are bad.

If it's been in salt water it's gonna be tough to rebuild.
Ask RRitt if he does them.

It's gonna be a B**&^% to take off you will have to just about take the motor off the boat.
Usually every nut and fitting and bolt is corroded.
Good luck.J
To test the pump,install the 1/8in plug in the bottom/front hole while it's tilted.Same procedure.J
 
Turns out I had a couple lines reversed. The tilt / trim works like new. Rritt is THE man.


I installed a new gas cap on the boat, tested the overheat warning buzzer, and got the battery installed.

Next thing to do is set the timing on the motor. Remove and ground the plugs/wires, timing light, WOT, 3rd mark to the right on the flywheel, correct?
 
It's been awhile since my last post, so here is an update......

Bought a tow bar and accesories for the truck. Fixed all the lights on the trailer.
Timed the motor with the plugs out and grounded, crank spun like banshee.
Went for the "virgin" first start with the plugs in, rr rr rr rr rr rr, SLOW.
Battery is new and checks out fine in all ways.
Cable ends are newly replaced and everything is tight.
"jumped" solenoid, no change rr rr rr rr rr SLOW.
I figure it must be the starter.

It occurred to me, that during the "waiting" for the head replacement, I took the starter apart and cleaned it out good, not replacing anything. Maybe I "cleaned" it too much and finished it off. It is the original (see previous pictures). Anyway, my freind has a brand new one, getting it from him tonight. I want to see this thing start after all the work and time I have spent on this. We will see if starts tommorrow morning. Until then.......
 
If it turns over good when the plugs are out do a compression test just for fun!!!!
Rebuild/clean the starter(again)Maybe the brushes aren't in right???
Make sure the leads(weak spots) are good and the connections are good.
 
OK. Got the new starter. Instantly fired up, glorious. Launched it, ran like new, idle, cruise, WOT, all perfect. Was out for about 1 hour, flawless, really made my day. That was Saturday. Took it out on Sunday, ran great at idle, cruise, WOT. After about 1/2 hour, was doing WOT for about 3 minutes and started hearing a weird knocking. Reduced speed to idle, weird knocking, but engine seemed to be running just fine. Headed back to the launch at a good speed, no sounds. Slowed down at launch and the knocking was there again, whether in gear or neutral. Then it died. Couldn't start it again unless I engaged the throttle a ways. (Before, it started in nuetral, no throttle, no choke, even cold. ) So I adjusted the idle UP. Started it, and the idle was way fast. Put the idle back where it was, runs great again with no knocking. Has me worried. What the heck is going on? By the way, powerhead is VERY low hours and 150lbs psi across the board. Maybe the gear case???? But that wouldn't explain the weird IDLE episode......
 
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You do the link and sink? Adjust the air screws?
Gotta make sure the carbs are right,that can cause a knock.
So can having the timing off.J
 
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