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1989 200 looper can't get it to idle

JMH

New member
i have a 1989 evinrude 200hp looper i can not get to idle,, does any body know the trick to solve this problem?????
has a new power pack, rebuilt the carbs , i have done all of the wire connecting/disconnecting i can do.
runs great off idle, ANY HELP, GUESSES, VODO, LATE NITE DREAMS WILL BE TRIED , THANKS
 
What are the compression readings of each individual cylinder?

With the spark plugs removed, do you have spark from each coil that will jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue spark?

Are you using Champion QL77JC4 spark plugs, gapped at either .030 or .040?
 
95 on each cyl,no off idle, or top end problems, correct plugs runs at aprox 6200 revs w/a 21 pitch 4 blade cupped prop on a 19' tunnel hull boat, acts like a timing issue, it is set at 7 btdc i have gone thru all the basics, from a-z and z-a still has me pulling my hair out-- thought some one out there has run into the same problem. new carb rebuilds
new power pack ' gas tank pressure washed and rinsed and dried , new racor water separator, new3/8 Yamaha fuel hose checked the wiring harness on both ends. i have run it at nite to see if there was a spark leakage, with out trying to sound rude this is not my first time with a two stroke, but this one is starting to get to me. thanks for any replys
 
Okay, not your first time with a two stroke, mine neither believe me. That tells me that you understand the two stroke principle so there's no need to explain that.

The compression is good and normal for a 89 200 looper. Now, at cranking speed, with the spark plugs removed, if you have spark that will jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame.... a real SNAP, that leaves the problem to be fuel related. You didn't reply to this question in my previous reply so I have no idea if this spark exists or not.

Also, are you using Champion QL77JC4 plugs? If not, what are you using?

Even if the compression and spark are as they should be, there is always the possibility that a magnet or two of the flywheel has come loose and shifted which will affect the ignition.

The two black coils at the extreme rear of the stator provide approximately 300 AC volts to the powerpack capacitor which is required for proper sustained ignition. Should those coils start to melt down, dripping a sticky looking substance down on the timer base and powerhead, that would result in a voltage drop to the powerpack. If this is the case, replace the stator.

A common operator error is installing the idle jet in the wrong location. And since the idle air jet and the intermediate air jet look the same but are different sizes, this mistake is easy to do. Worth double checking.

Determining if a lean running carburetor is at fault...... With the face plate removed and engine running at an idle, one carb at a time... stick two fingers in the carburetor throat acting as a manual choke. If the engine picks up and smooths out somewhat at any particular carburetor, you've found an offending carburetor.

Let us know what you find.
 
Get a heat gun and check engine temp on both banks. To low (below 145F) on idle and un-even, and you will not get it idle smoothly. A fresh impeller and good thermostat system a must on those engines.
 
if this engine has reticulation valves (can not remember)these can contribute to a poor idle.Not an engine that won't idle.just some thing to check after you get it running.I use power tune to finish the job..Great information on this site,I repaired Johnsons/evenrudes of 20 years and learn from the site.Good job folks.
 
Leadpipe... Yes (good mention), the engine has six (6) brass recirculating valves, three (3) on each side, screwed in horizontally just in back of the intake manifold(s). If even one is fouled or stuck open, that causes one cylinder to run lean, the other cylinder rich. The flow must be only from the inside screened portion of the valve to the outside prong portion.
 
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