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1959 Johnson 10hp seahorse help please! Spark plugs and rebuild question.

jpcurran413

New member
Hello, I have a 1959 johnson seahorse 10 hp outboard. Here is what I have replaced: New impeller kit, 2 new coils, 2 new condensors, working on rebuilding the carburetor, 2 spark plugs, 2 spark plug wires, and new gear lube. I set my points as best I could. I have no knowledge with motors but have read a ton about this motor but speak simple terms please. When I turn the magneto wheel to see if I can get a spark from the plugs there is no spark. The magneto wheel is difficult to turn, prior to the rebuild it was easier to turn. Not sure what I have done wrong. I know when I replaced the spark plug cords they were a little difficult to get the wire into the coil so maybe there isn't enough connection there? Not really sure, but I will greatly appreciate any and all advice. Once again speak in simple terms. Thanks!
 
Did you put the coils in the right position --------------You can not just put them in and tighten the screws.--------You can use the timing marks on the magneto plate and the flywheel to set the points.
 
I did just put the coils in and tighten the screws. Not sure how to set the coils in regards to the timing plate. Would you be able to break that down like you are talking to a 5th grader. Thanks for the help!! Any pics that might be helpful to me would be appreciated too!
 
Sorry, just look at where the coils mount , They must not stick out past the " bosses " where they mount.-----Factory had a special tool for that , so it is important to get this correct !!------No pictures for you.-------Go to the --------aomci -----------site lots of past questions and info on this subject there.
 
The mounting area should have an offset area. It may look like an angled area or be sharply defined. bosses.jpg This is a sharply defined offset. The angled area would be just a notch at the top of the boss. If you don't have the tool (most of us don't) keep the edge of the coil at the inside edge of the offset. Turning the flywheel by hand may not spin it fast enough to get a spark. And yes that coil in the picture is badly cracked and needs to be replaced.
 
Sorry, just look at where the coils mount , They must not stick out past the " bosses " where they mount.-----Factory had a special tool for that , so it is important to get this correct !!------No pictures for you.-------Go to the --------aomci -----------site lots of past questions and info on this subject there.

These BOSSES that everyone is talking about are the little square block under each ARM of the coil. There is a small ledge on the little block, rest a square edge on that and make sure the coil arm is FLUSH with that face of the block, make sure it is flush with the surface closest t the coil arm.
 
The picture shown of one of the coils..... That coil looks very bad!

Recommended spark plugs = Champion J4C or J6C (None Other) set at .030 . Due to the engine's age, the J6C would be the best choice in my opinion.

(Magneto & Driver Coil Alignment)
(J. Reeves)

To align the coils properly, have the metal vertical portion of the coil yokes aligned with the inside edge of the bevel that exists on the top portion of the aluminum seat upon which the coils sit. This creates the proper distance between the coils and the flywheel magnets. Faulty alignment creates friction and the yokes of the coils heat up, turn blue and expand.
********************
(Point Setting Of Magneto Models)
(J. Reeves)

Note that there are other ways to set points such as using a ohm meter or timing light... however, the following will result in a setting so close to being exact that one could not tell the difference.


Make sure that your feeler gauge is absolutely clean so as NOT to transfer oil/grease to the points.

Set the points as follows. Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubbing portion of the ignition points. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not. Should there be any question of the points being dirty (touching the contact with your finger would cause them to be dirty), clean them with a small brush and acetone or lacquer thinner.

NOTE 1: Should the operating cam have a small portion on it with the word "SET" imprinted, align this portion with the fiber rubbing portion instead of the flywheel key.

NOTE 2: Should the cam have the word TOP embossed on the top of it, that is a cam that could be installed upside down and this is simply telling you which side is up. It is not a position where one would set the points.
 
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