Tohatsu 25 Conversian to Remote

Hi all,
I have a 2006 4 stroke long 25hp injected tiller engine on my skiff. I want to convert it to remote with steering. I am mechanical and do lots of work my self. Is this with in the realm of a mechanical person? Has anyone done this and can tell me cost?
Thanks
Josh in Mass

Possible to do with average skills, but costly. You need a Factory service manual for the MFS25B, the control box (decide whether flush, side, or binnacle mount... prices will depend on your choice of style, but figure about $450 for the controls)), control cables of proper length for your boat (about $50 or so each), and SRC kit (3AC838801M REMOTE CONTROL FITTING PARTS $42.60), plus WHEN CONVERTING F25/30B FROM TILLER TO REMOTE, THE ECU CORD WILL NEED TO BE CHANGED, PART# 3AD102050M. You will also need a steering cable to connect the wheel. If using a modern Teleflex type cable, you will need the appropriate drag link as well.

Hi Paul,
Its been a year, but I am hoping to get the conversion done before I put her away this year. I have a few questions to clarify.

I found par 3AC 83880-0 as the RC Kit, what does the 1M mean, I did not see it in the parts book?

Is the steering link called Drag Link 3EO 84905-0?

What is the ECU Cord?

To keep costs down, can I use a Morse (universal) control? The Tohatsu controls look very expensive, I have electric and tilt start but don't care if they stay on the engine. I will run a kill switch to the helm.

Out of curiosity, I see lots of controls on Ebay for Tohatsu, what in general are the differences, I assume that not all controls work with all engines.

For what it is worth to anyone reading this, my 25 4 stroke is 6 years old now with about 400 hours and runs great.

Josh,

Verify whether you have the 25A (with 3 carbs) or the 25B (with ECU) so you get the right parts. Also get the Factory service manual, so you understand how everything fits together.

The last numeric digit on a Tohatsu part is usually a revision to the part since it was first manufactured; so the -1 part is a superceded part. The M designation isn't significant to the consumer, just the factory.

You will want drag link H, which has the 1 at the end of the part number. Yes, this is the link that connects the engine to the teleflex-style steering cable.

The ECU is the "computer" (electronic control unit) for the motor. The RC configuration requires a different cable to connect the ECU. Again, verify your model/serial to determine which bits you will need.

Yes, any Morse-style control will operate the shift and throttle (only - not ignition, start, etc.); Just be sure you don't get F and R reversed (pull for F vs pull for R). The Tohatsu controls are priced similarly to other OE manufacturers (in fact below many), and you will want the correct RC box for your motor, so that you have the correct power/signal wiring connectors for the motor. That way, you get the key start, kill, etc, and proper wiring for T/T, etc. As an alternative, you can connect a "divorced" key switch (separate from the RC box), and if you select the correct key switch (Tohatsu has them), it will include the ignition kill function. Ditto for the tilt and trim.

There are several different Tohatsu RC boxes. Some part number differences are just for paint color, but as I noted, you will want the one that has the correct wiring connectors, unless you will be hacking into the wiring to get the functions you want.

Paul,
Thanks for the help. I have an MFS25B 3AD. So how does a RC interact with the ECU? Does the Tohatsu version interact beside start, tilt, and shutoff? If I choose a non tohatsu like a morse MT3 it would not interact at all. Is that ok.
Thanks, getting ready to order. Can you suggest any dealers with good pricing?
Josh

The RC box connects to the wiring harness of the motor; that's at the ECU.
Our dealership matches any advertised pricing on any available Tohatsu parts from any dealer.

Josh41 said:

Paul,
Thanks for the help. I have an MFS25B 3AD. So how does a RC interact with the ECU? Does the Tohatsu version interact beside start, tilt, and shutoff? If I choose a non tohatsu like a morse MT3 it would not interact at all. Is that ok.
Thanks, getting ready to order. Can you suggest any dealers with good pricing?
Josh

Click to expand...

The 3AC102050M ECU cord is for the tiller models. The 3AD102050M cord is for the Remote models.
A generic control will provide only shift and throttle; no alarm buzzer, no electric start, no tilt, no stop button.
The Tohatsu control is less expensive than the Evinrude, Yamaha, Mercury, Honda, etc. controls.

Paul,
Thanks for all the info, it has been invaluable. Just a few more questions. Is there such a think as a top mount RC from Tohatsu? I am finding the control at $370, is that about right, high? The Drag link at about $135 and the SRC kit at about $65. I have the Seloc manual, will the Tohatsu manual actually show how to install or just show an exploded view of the parts?
Thanks (again)
Josh

Yes, Tohatsu handles binnacle-mount controls.
The Factory service manual will detail the placement of parts, but is not a substitute for experience (which you will be getting by doing the installation)
Dump the aftermarket manual; they tend to be far too general and cover many many motors. The manual for the 25/30B covers only those specific motors, in incredible detail, including colored wiring diagrams. There is also an interface kit and software CD that we use at the dealership to access the ECU memories and diagnose those motors.
Actual installation of the RC is covered in the owner's manuals for both the control and the motor itself. Installing the SRC kit will not be covered as such, but will be self-explanatory in the service manual.

Update:
All went smoothly, figured out that I had to remove the steering friction as well. The lever hits the drag link arm.
I ended up using a Morse MT3 control, and moved the kill switch up to the helm.

Paul: is there a second harness for tilt/trim or just the side mount one?

Looks like you have a great crew helping!

To extend the TT switch to the console, just use a 3-wire [marine grade] cable, and feed the remote TT switch with that. You can use "assist cords" to tap into the motor harness.

Paul,
Thanks for all your help, it has made this job much easier.
So, I have an up/down switch on the lower cowling that is connected to a pink, red, and sky blue wire. So it works fine, I disconnected the connector and tried to jump the red to the pink or brown, nothing happens. Am I missing something?
Additionally, I have a connector in the front of the engine that is not used that has the same three colored wires. I tested the red and it was live. I tried the same procedure and nothing happened. I was hoping that this would be a second T/T.
It is all back together right now and working fine.
When I buy a switch will any marine mom/off/mom work?
Thanks again.
Josh

Of course, had you used the Tohatsu RC box, the TT would be available right on the lever. That aside, yes, applying 12v (from the red wire) to either pink or sky blue will give either up or down TT operation. Not sure what you did/didn't do, but that is indeed how it works. Of course, you only activate ONE direction at a time.

The TT switch on the lower cowl is "live" whenever the battery is connected; in the case of a Tohatsu control, the control-mounted TT switch is only active when the key is on. If the cowl switch works, yet you are not able to get the solenoids to fire when you jumper the wires, there's something wrong with how you are jumpering.

Yes, that extra set of wires is available for connecting a remote TT switch. Yes, any SPDT-momentary (single-pole, double-throw, momentary) switch will work. I like the waterproof switches from Blue Sea Systems.