Logo
FULL SITE MENU

1988 force 125 info

jerold

jerold

Regular Contributor
I just got this motor/boat. The previous owner said that a week ago, he started out and a few minutes into the ride the motor slowly lost rpm and died. He said he thought he might have smelled something. He did not try to start the motor and was towed in. He bought a new boat the next day and gave the one that shut down on him to me. Nice. I am good with engines, car, motorcycles. I have rebuilt several. I have not worked on a boat motor before, but it seems easy enough to me.
My problem...I started checking the obvious things and found that number 3 and 4 have no spark. I followed wires, etc, to help me understand this engine. The wires from the 3 and 4 coils go to one of the cd modules. Can I say that the cd module is fried, or is there a way to test it?? Anybody?? Thanks..
 
Outboardignition.com has test procedures for the outboards.
Could be the stator or pack.
Do a compression test too.
I sent you a PM.
 
Also I should say....I had been driving this boat the day before it stopped. It was running very strong and smooth. 3 and 4 shutting down was sudden. 1 and 2 have strong spark. It is sounding to me like the stator is "usually" the culprit... ??? What is the life expectancy of a stator?
 
They can last the life of the motor.Or go as soon as you put it on.
Mine are original.
Loosing spark on 2 plugs could be a loose connection.Or a wire rubbed wrong and it's grounding out.J
 
I tightened all connections, visually inspected wires. I want to test the stator. After buying a flywheel holding tool, and shedding blood and swear words, I finally got the flywheel NUT off. Then, with a puller attached to the three holes near the middle of the flywheel, tried to get the flywheel off. Pulled the threads right out of the holes. How do I get the flywheel OFF??
 
Picture 006.jpgPicture 005.jpgPicture 007.jpgA 3 jaw puller is the next way.A BIG 3 jaw.See pic.You can test the stator while it's still on.
SAFETY GLASSES!!!GLOVES!!!Use an impact wrench,loosen the top nut,don't take it all the way off.
Install the puller.There are 3 indents on the wheel.Tighten it down.Then with the impact tighten it till you think it's gonna break something.Use a 2-3# hammer and hit the screw.It should pop the wheel off.
If not then tighten with the impact some more.Try again.Harbor Freight has pullers.
Just remember a cheapo will give cheapo results.J
 
The glorious POP of the flywheel echoed thru the hood tonight! That's exactly the puller I just rented. It finally went when I tapped the driver bolt on the puller. Now I need to test the stator.
 
The stator is out. Looks pretty beat up to me, but I haven't seen one of these before. One wire has a bare spot where in goes into the unit. Flat ares (magnets?) are 2 tone color and seem rubbed on....
 
OK. So I tested blue to yellow, and blue to yellow. One set reads 750...I believe that is perfect..? The other set has no reading.. Stator shot, right? Green to green has continuity.
 
Motor runs great. Now I can't get the water to spit out the exhaust holes. Is the water pump fried? I started it a few times dry for no more than 10 seconds.......Now with water connected, I can't get it to spit out. Any suggestions??
 
The water pump is fried, cracked, broken...Got a new one. Noticed, however, there is a rubber boot where the shift rod enters the lower unit that has a big tear in it. Is that letting water into the unit to mix with the oil?
 
Lower unit was filled with black seawater.
At this point, what do I do with this lower unit?...??
FYI, half of the bottom fin, below the propeller, is broke off too....Is this unit worth rebuilding? It seemed to be working fine a few weeks ago, even with seawater for oil.
 
You say the motor runs good now.After you put in a new stator?Or what???

If you have salt water in it you probably need a rebuild.
Easier to buy a lower on e-bay or Craigslist.
 
Motor wouldn't start. Got a new stator, motor runs. Didn't see water peeing out the back. Dropped lower unit. Discovered the water pump looking really bad from the outside. Removed water pump, impeller was dead. Got new water pump. B4 I installed the pump, noticed the shift linkage rubber boot had a big hole. Lower unit filled with 100% water. Getting a new "plate" that goes under the water pump and has a new type of seal for the shift rod, picking it up today.

I can't afford a new lower, so I am going to refill the lower with oil, run it for awhile on the water, then drain and refill again, and hope for the best. It was performing just fine before the stator went out, even with the "water lubricant".

Jer
 
The linkage seal kit I got is the wrong one. In fact, I can't seem to find a correct schematic of my lower linkage online at all. On other units, I am seeing that the linkage rod screws in down deep in the gear case. My unit has a short linkage rod that screws in to another link just ABOVE the top of the case. What's the deal?
 
Problem with the linkage solved. The EXTENSION does screw in down deep as normal. It also screws OUT and can be removed and REPLACED with the long stainless rod that comes with the kit. The kit replaces the old style "plate" that is beneath the water pump that had the obsolete failing seal that allowed all the water into the case. I am putting it all back together now after I filled it with oil. The new oil seemed to be pushing all the old gunk up to the top where the drive shaft goes in. So I kept syringing it off and adding more oil until the oil I was removing was clear. The case seems to be quite smooth now that it has oil, we will see what happens when I try it on the motor.
 
Back
Top