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check engine alarm (mil)sounds and flashes @2300 rpms?

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My check engine light lights up and alarms sounds when i reach 2300rpms. So far i have replaced all fuel filters even the high pressure fuel filter by the fuel pump,thermostats,water hoses and now even the water pump.Found the water necks corroded 1st thought that was my problem now I have no idea whats going on . Jumpered the scan wires(lime green and black wire) counted flashes on the mil dash light coming up with 58 which i think is the cam position sensor? and I believe 24 which is high temp. Checked ohms on sensors seemed to be within range, HELP PLEASE!
 
The check engine light is telling you there is something wrong with the sensors. They are either bad, running out of range, or the wiring or the connections are bad. Always check to see if you busted the connector or pulled a wire if you slipped while putting the engine cover on and it hit one of the connectors.

Your #24 indicates an issue with the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 2. It is located at the top of the port exhaust just below the lifting ring. With the ignition switch off. Disconnect it and inspect the connection. May have corrosion. If you do not see anything out of line, reseat it several times to help clean the contacts of the connectors. If you have an ohm meter, disconnect the connector again and measure its resistancel. There is a chart that shows what it should be depending on temperature. A sample is at 60 deg F approx 4k ohm; at 80 deg F approx 2 -3 kohm; at 100 deg F approx 1 -2 kohm. If you interpolate, you can figure out the points inbetween depending on the temperature where you are. This is assuming that you have not run the motor. Then it should be at ambient temperature.
If the sensor does not measure at least close to those ranges, it is faulty and should be replaced.

The same kind of situation with the #58 code. It is the cam position sensor 2. CMP2. Do the same thing with the connector. The sensors are located under the left cam pulley cover. I do not think you will be able to get to them easily. You might be able to get to the connector. I am not sure. Both cam sensors are connected to the same connector. Its resistance should be between 1.5 and 2.5 k ohm. Without a manual, this is about all you can do at this point. If the resistance checks out and the connections are good, it is possible that the ECM has a problem. That is where it probably should be taken to a dealer unless you have a manual and know what you are doing.

Once you get the resistances and connections checked then you should clear the codes and see if they come back.


If you do not know how, it will vary depending on the safety landyard button that you have. If you have the kind, that if you push it in, the motor stops, then the following will clear the codes. If you do not have that kind, you will have to vary the routine to have the same effect.

All of this should be done within 20 seconds of turning on the key...

-Jumper scan leads.
-Turn the key switch to on (20 seconds starts now)
-With the landyard clip still in the stop switch, press the emergency stop switch for approx. 1/2 second, then release for approx 1 -2 seconds.
-Do this for 5 times 5 on and off.
-After the last one, you should hear the warning buzzer sound with two beeps.
-Turn the key switch off right away.

If you did it all within 20 seconds and got the beeps, you cleared the codes.

Take your jumper off the scan leads.

Start the motor and run it for a while. If you are one the water, take it out and give it a try.
If you run it on a hose it might be hard to duplicate the problem.

Hopefully, no alarm comes back and you are good to go. That means you found some connection problem. If you get the alarm again. Check the codes again. You may have fixed one of them.

I highly recommend a manual from Helm Inc if you are trying to get into this kind of repair. It might turn out to be simple but Murphy's Law says it will be more complex.

Mike
 
Thanks Mike, I pretty much did all that and still getting same alarm even after clearing codes. I think Im going to have to break down and take it to a dealer.Anybody know of anyone who works on Honda outboards that doesnt want an arm and leg to repair Ilive in Delaware.
 
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