1961 60hp starter solenoid??

I'm new to this forum but have read a few posts and it seems like everyone is helpful, as a small block guy the boating world is foreign to me. I recently purchased a 1961 sea king Sixty that has fire but no fuel. I replaced the fuel pump and fuel lines. It would then turn over and fire a few revolutions but not level out to idle. I pulled the carburetor off, rebuilt it, reinstalled it, and tried to turn the key. I got the infamous click with a continuing groan. I gave the battery a solid trickle charge hoping it was low amperage but the same is happening. The only electrical connection removed to rebuild the carb was the choke wire, which still functions. I'm looking for any advice or replacement sources. All help is greatly appreciated.

Clean all the connections from the battery to the solenoid to the motor. Clean the connection at the starter motor. If the motor itself is starting to stick a bit it may not turn over via the starter motor. Try pulling it over with the recoil and then using the starter motor. Check the voltage of the battery. Good battery should be in the 13-14 volt range with 12 volt being low. Check voltage at the solenoid battery side connection. Should match the battery. With the key engaged check the other side of the solenoid for same voltage. Try rolling some fine sand paper to clean the connectors from the solenoid box to the motor and the pins on the motor side of the connection. The starter motor may be needing new brushes. As long as the starter motor is trying to go the solenoid is good. Replacement starters are available new for around $100. Not quite a match but still functional. One other spot to clean is the motor side ground lead. May also help to run a wire from that connection to a mounting bolt at the starter.

Thanks, where would I get a starter or solenoid? Any 50 HP omc from the appropriate year?

You might try taking the starter into an alternator repair shop. Most of the starters from that period are either Autolite or Prestolite. There should be a number starting with MDW or such that they can match up for replacement if they can't repair it. Brushes are still available. Don't replace the solenoid with an automotive one. Even though they look alike they are wired different inside. Most of the OMC units will work as long as you match up the Autolite numbers.

I did test the voltage and connections, leaving me with a bad solenoid. The only markings on the solenoid housing is the 50 year old sticker reading "for 12 volt system". I'm guessing this is the point where I need to research current and amperage specs to ensure I get the proper one? Or should I bite the bullet and visit a local dealer to start opening dusty boxes and compare physically? I do appreciate all the help.

Check out this site: http://www.aomci.org/ Post an add on their web-vertize and see if someone has one for you. There is also a way to use an automotive with the four posts (2 large and 2 small). If you find you must use the auto type DO NOT CONNECT ALL FOUR POSTS. Find the small post that will energize the solenoid on both sides of the big posts. Connect that post to the starter switch and leave the other post unconnected. As I understand the issue is that on the marine unit one small post is hot to the switch and the other is grounded to the mercury switch that prevents you from starting the motor at high throttle while the auto unit is hot at both small posts and will burn out the mercury switch. You can run the motor without the safety switch if you need to, but then if something should happen because you started the motor at full throttle in gear? Well, hope you have a good lawyer.