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Best place to get a rebuilt marine engine?

Colbya1

New member
Im looking for 83 crusader 5.7 270hp. Preferably long block. Not exactly sure whats wrong with this engine but we were told it has a blown rod. I was thinking we should get new heads. Is this a good idea or should I put the old heads back on the rebuilt engine?
 
There's more to this than simply swapping cylinder heads. The piston selection must be known, in order to know which cylinder head to use..... or IOW, the cylinder head choice should influence the piston selection.

Also, there are several SBC cylinder head casting numbers to steer clear of.
Do a Google search for SBC cylinder head casting numbers....... some of the light castings are listed.

Typically any with five scallops along the lower area should be avoided.... such as this one.
(example only)

images



This heavy casting shows only two scalloped areas.
(example only)
images


We'll commonly see the 64cc chambers being used in the mid 80's, and we'll see the 76cc chambers being used on the earlier engines.
The two pistons that we'll see will be either the full dished, and/or the Flat Top.
Each requires a different combustion chamber volume in order to remain within a C/R that best suits Marine cruiser use.

Many rebuilders simply grab a full dished piston without giving this much thought!
Not good!
I'd recommend that if you are custom building one, that you steer clear of the full dished pistons.
Dished Piston.jpg



Contact a piston supplier, and tell them what you are building, and ask for their recommendation for a Quench Effect piston.
Either cylinder head volume can be used...... just tailor the piston style/volume to the cylinder head volume and desired C/R.
It's that simple.... and no other mods need to be made.
With a Q/E, the C/R can be increased some without added risk of detonation.
If your rebuilder does not understand the Q/E and Detonation potential (for a Marine build), he may not be your best option, IMO.



If nothing else, get your hands on a copy of Dennis Moore's "Small Block Chevy Marine Performance".
A local library can bring this book in for you.
717SXM8WJ3L._BO2,204,203,200_PIsitb-sticker-arrow-click,TopRight,35,-76_AA300_SH20_OU01_.gif
 
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This is such a common issue here on this board...dead engines and how to remedy them. It rarely makes sense or saves any money to take the offending engine to a machine shop for rebuilding. Get one from a known vendor. A rebuilt 5.7GM engine will cost you about 2 grand by the time it reaches your doorstep. You may possibly get away with bolting on all your old stuff to the replacement, but more likely than not you'll want at least new manifolds and risers. Add another $700. Gaskets and hoses will be another couple hundred.
Assuming you are using your own labor you're looking at about 3 large all in all.
I always recommend that people buy locally when re powering. Buying from a re builder that is out of state comes with all kinds of risk, so much so that it isn't work messing with.
If this is a boat that you plan on keeping for at least another ten years, then maybe a complete repower with a nice Volvo DPX and 5.7 EFI or even a diesel would be worth the expense (notice I didn't say investment)
 
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Thanks for all the good advice. If their are no cracks would it be nessary to replace the manifolds and risers? Im leaning heavily toward the long block option. I have found a few companies that sell these motors with all the OEM specks for the crusader 270. Im looking at about 1500. 200 for delivery and a 3 or 4hun for the core. The other problem is getting the old motor out and the new in. Its going into a 32 Carver with an aft cabin. Im thinking maybe it would be wise to let one of the marines perform this maneuver. I have thought about turning the boat around in the slip and hauling it out the back. I would have to take railing off and set sum 2x10s across. Then roll it off with some sort of dolly. Their is also the problem of raising the motor. Thinking maybe a tripod of some sort would work. We would be relying on the floor supports to hold everything. Not very reassuring to say the least.
 
I have just repowered with a long block I bought from Rapido Marine which is located in Holloywood Florida. The long block cost me $1450- plus $150- for shipping. I have been very pleased so for with it, though I will tell you that the only running I have done has been on the trailer. I will be putting her over Friday and then the real test starts.
 
Thanks for all the good advice. If their are no cracks would it be nessary to replace the manifolds and risers? Im leaning heavily toward the long block option. I have found a few companies that sell these motors with all the OEM specks for the crusader 270. Im looking at about 1500. 200 for delivery and a 3 or 4hun for the core. The other problem is getting the old motor out and the new in. Its going into a 32 Carver with an aft cabin. Im thinking maybe it would be wise to let one of the marines perform this maneuver. I have thought about turning the boat around in the slip and hauling it out the back. I would have to take railing off and set sum 2x10s across. Then roll it off with some sort of dolly. Their is also the problem of raising the motor. Thinking maybe a tripod of some sort would work. We would be relying on the floor supports to hold everything. Not very reassuring to say the least.

Oh gosh those Carvers! They tend to bury a lot of stuff you need to get to behind cabinetry and bulkheads, requiring sometimes a lot of disassembly. Hope you don't have too tough of a time.
I would certainly pay Mr Marina to pull out and install the engines. Unless you are handy with a crane/cherry picker, it's the best option.
 
I have gone the long block route and suggest you go with a new complete motor. The long block I got from Recon was fine, but the cost for other parts decided/needed to replace and labor time didn't save me that much in the end and. You will have more faith in it in the long run and probably get a warranty also.
 
You may also consider a "factory rebuilt engine" which, like their "new" cousins, come with the full range of options. You get a warranty, like new, but with a decent discount.

As far as what to replace vs reinstall - your existing stuff is nearly 30 years old. I'd only consider reinstalling none rotating parts and after they were integrity tested. Also have to consider the accumulated corrosion in that time frame...not much opportunity for savings.
 
You mention hauling it out, this is the set up I used to do mine, When I put it back in I built an a frame out of 2X10's to hold the end in the cockpit. $50- for the I beam bought as scrap from work, $100- for the trolly and 1 ton chain fall from harbor frieght. $20- for lumber. Took my son and I 1 1/2 hrs to set things up same to take it down. 15 minutes to pull it out of the box and 10 minutes to put back in the boat. That was with manifolds, reverse gear and everything put together. For me it is simple economics, I try to do everything myself as I simply can't afford to pay what marinas charge and besides I get the bragging rights for the job I did. Not to say that it won't back fire but what in life does not have that risk?
DSCF0079.jpgDSCF0076.jpg afram and I beam.jpg

The other option is a truck with a winch and a boom. Both ways will require you to have the boat out of the water. Best of luck!
 
These are all great Ideas. Im thinkn il probly hav 2 dry dockr for the project. Let the marina pull the motor. Everything is fairly easy to access with this boat so i think we lucked out their. Its really a matter of saftely removing the blown motor. Most of the components are removed. Just trying to do a little homework on finding the replacement motor. ? does R.H. stamped on the back of the motor = standard rotation.?
 
? does R.H. stamped on the back of the motor = standard rotation.?
Not sure who stamped RH on the engine, but typically RH would mean Right Hand Rotation, of which would mean a "Reverse Rotation" engine.
LH (left hand) is Standard Rotation.
Either is to be viewed from the flywheel end, if we want to speak industry standard language.

This is a Standard LH Rotation Marine Engine... aka CCW rotation.... same as car/truck.
faq-ro5.jpg


This is a Non-Standard RH Rotation Marine Engine..... aka Counter Rotation.... aka CW rotation... opposite car/truck.
faq-ro6.jpg




This is intended to be somewhat humorous and informative at the same time.
Humorous due to the level of convincing that it required.
See post #9 for Engine Rotation determination.
http://www.marineengine.com/boat-fo...2-Engine-rotation-for-CC-1982-350-QL-amp-350Q

With the same humor in mind, this thread should explain how to determine where #1 cylinder is.
While it mainly pertains to the 318/360 Chrysler.... it does touch on a few other engines.
http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?390821-number-one-on-chrysler-marine-318



Have fun reading!
 
This is all good info. Ive been going through it and will continue to reference this materal as I go through the process. I was hoping for a point and click option:cool: but looks like its going to be a little more involved. I will continue the pursuit for a rebuilt or remanufactured crusader 270. Thanks to all that replied with advise and links.
 
Colbya1, you mention "Its going into a 32 Carver".
After I gave this some more thought, I have a question that the answer to may influence your engine purchase!

If space is very limited, some of these engines are installed as Short Block only, and then fitted with the cylinder heads, etc. after the main components have been installed.
If this is the case, you may want to purchase the engine minus the cylinder head installation.
Point being..... on some installations, it's just too difficult to R&R a completely assembled engine.


One more thought..... I'd encourage you to at least read Dennis Moore's info re; a quench effect build before pulling the trigger on an engine purchase.
A Q/E build makes for a better Marine version of the SBC...... actually, it makes for a better build on any gasoline Marine engine that incorporates a wedge area within the combustion chamber.
The cost to do so is peanuts if you know which pistons to purchase.

Any shop can build one....... all they need to do is contact their piston supplier, and order the correct pistons for the build criteria.
Nothing else needs to be changed.

.

 
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Good point. Ill remeasure everything but if it clears the door I should be home free. All floor boards can easily be removed. Hopefully I can use a hoist. The guy that owns the place we store the boat has 1 and has offered to let local boat repair mechanics use this equipment when were ready to make the switch.
 
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