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131A Raw Water Pump Inlet tube

I think that you have the wrong type of suction hose. The hose that you show would appear to be soft wall, and not good against suction collapse.
This hose must be collapse proof when used on the suction side.

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In reading back through your thread here, I noticed a few things:

I'd get rid of those standard band clamps on your drive shaft bellows. Use the Euro style band clamps in place of those cut worm screw bands. The fully cut bands have a tendency to grab and pull on the bellows material while being tightened up.
If this style clamp pulls on the material, it may not seal as well.
The OEM Volvo Penta are always the Euro style, and are smooth on the interior of the band.


Also, and just an FYI.... I see red RTV oozing from the water neck fitting.
This is a special beaded gasket with the bead to be facing downward against the pivot tube.
The upper side can be sealed against the water neck fitting, and technically you could also seal the underside of the gasket surface.... but the flat surface ONLY!
The actual beaded area must be lubricated since it actually rotates against the top of the pivot tube.

The lower pivot tube O-ring rotates 1:1 with the pivot tube..... so nothing needs to be used here.


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Ricardo, when i ordered the hose through iboats it described to to replace Volvo Penta Part: Volvo 838513, its described here as a replacement http://www.teleflexsierra.com/18-70704-Molded-Hose/dm/store_id.373--view_id.489747 i will order the beaded gasket as described. I bought the the boat and that orange gasket sealer was already there. I havent ventured into that part of the boat yet. My first goal is to get the timing cover, pump and tubes all back on to oem spec like you suggested earlier in my post. baby steps, but i am in a hurry now that spring has sprung in the northeast...
 
Here's an OEM image showing this hose connected.

83600.jpg


Now... another FYI;
Not all of these Volvo Penta suction hoses are wire re-enforced. Being soft wall doesn't neccessarily mean that it will collapse on you.
I suppose you could install it, and keep an eye on it.


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That hose looks too short if you are using the OEM copper and chrome.
If you engine does not have a front motor mount, the hose will need some play in it to flex when the motor raises up under load.

If you are frugal, like me..
you will go to an auto parts store and buy a Dayco 71788 hose.
Line it up with your tubes and cut the hose to length.
If I remember correctly, the short 90 degree bend is what I cut off leaving a hose around 12" long with on 90 degree bend.

It is 1" diameter inside, the tubes are 1& 1/8, so use soap when slipping it on.
 
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dennis461 said:
That hose looks too short if you are using the OEM copper and chrome.
If you engine does not have a front motor mount, the hose will need some play in it to flex when the motor raises up under load.

If you are frugal, like me..
you will go to an auto parts store and buy a Dayco 71788 hose.
Line it up with your tubes and cut the hose to length.
If I remember correctly, the short 90 degree bend is what I cut off leaving a hose around 12" long with on 90 degree bend.

It is 1" diameter inside, the tubes are 1& 1/8, so use soap when slipping it on.
Click to expand...


I am, great point.... I will go downtown auto parts store in the morning and get one, mail the other hose back to I boats ..... You have been great
 
scortoncreekfisher said:
I am, great point.... I will go downtown auto parts store in the morning and get one, mail the other hose back to I boats ..... You have been great
Click to expand...
The automotive hoses that you'll find will most likely be for pressurized cooling systems. I've used them several times for sea water supply once out of the pump. The preformed bends make it real easy to get the correct fit. I've just never used them for suction.

Just make sure that it will not collapse, and you'll be OK.

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photo (3).jpg

new screws, rubber seals, new used timing belt cover/bracket new used cooling tubes and new used pump... Ricardo.. took your advice and purchased the hose and cut it down... the other one i bought was way too small... everything worked out perfect. thanks a bunch.. next step is to buy the electronic ignition set up... then install and fire up... i am looking at a accu-spark coil and conversion set up on flea bay for $67 plus shipping from englang... cheap... any thoughts?

:)
 
No thoughts other than to remind you that you check the distributor for wear that may affect the advancing mechanism.
As usual, my advice is to set BASE advance, and to then follow that by checking the progressive advance as per the OEM specs.
I don't recall what this is for your engine, but it will give you the total advance and the total advance RPM.
Just make sure that it's not throwing out too much advance too early and/or visa-versa.

Good deal on the suction hose... glad it worked out for you. :D

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extra parts available.... i have 2 extra aq125 aq145 timing belt cover/ brackets for sale or trade and a set of aq145 tubes available for sale or trade... tex or email 508-648-5284
 
Ricardo , is the beaded seal you were referring to on the water neck that is a routine replaced part... the seal that pivots and needs to be greased not sealed. The orange gasket sealer scares me under the neck, makes me wonder if that seal was leaking and if the dude sealed it with gasket sealer. I would like to order the beaded gsket before i pull it apart.... maybe order a new neck and hose.

http://www.iboats.com/Rubber-Seal-for-Volvo-Penta-814356-2-GLM-23020-Sierra/dm/view_id.173438
 
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