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131A Raw Water Pump Inlet tube

scortoncreekfisher

Contributing Member
I purchased a 1988 Citation boat that has a Volvo Penta AQ131a motor with the 275 outdrive in it.It seems that the raw water inlet tube corroded and snapped off at the pump and the previous owner tried to "Micky Mouse" it back together without success. I am not sure if the set up that is going on is original or not and was looking for advice. First and formost, these tubes really cost $300 plus for copper tubing (rip off)? It looks like he had the water inlet tube coming in through the bottom of the hull which doesn't look original. When i look up the part it shows the tube (part 7) running towards the back, however he had it set up different. I dont want to spend $300 on a tube, only to cut it down to have it custom fit. The old flange screw is rotted off in the raw water pump and that will be a project on it own. Any advice as to where i can find cheaper tubes, how to get bolt out of the pump and if the set up is original or not. I recently replaced the distibutor with a new used one due to a corroded snapped screw, i am going to replace the impeller in the raw pump and i am thinking about going to a electronic ignition in the future. I have also fixed the tilt motor this year, so i not being cheap , but frugal! I bought this boat last year and have sunk lots of monet into it and it hasn't been in the water. Its an obsession now!!! please go to youtube.com and see Debzfault videos and you can see her runjuly 070.jpgjuly 072.jpgjuly 080.jpgjuly2011 080.jpgjuly2011 080.jpg
 
Look on line for marine salvage yards. The boat ran in salt water(sure looks like that)?
Your gonna find you bought a money pit.The lift assy is expensive.
The pump was hooked to a pick up in the floor cause the drive pickup assy went south and started leaking air.
The flange that holds the copper tubes is cut in half and can be bought.
You might want to replace the copper tube and try to make it work with flange tools.
The outdrive probably needs to be disasembled to repair the water pickup.
The Volvos if taken care of are almost bullet proof.The drive is the best there is.
The 270 came with the drive lift not the trim newer motors have.So if you fix it don't try to use it for anything other than lifting the drive up for trailering.
Your gonna find the parts are WAY expensive.Starter$400 Manifold $400 water pump $300 and so on etc.

The pump:start spraying the screw/bolts with PB blaster.Or your probably gonna need heat and will have to rebuild the pump.
Good luck with this.Like I said the motors run great just very expensive.J
 
I believe that I may have a tube, will check whenI get home on Monday. Regarding the water pump, use heat to try and remove the bolt. I had the same problem and ended drilling and tapping.

Those prices above are innaccurate. Starter have it rebuilt, alternator replace it with a single wire marine Delco $125, water pump go automotive since the engine has closed cooling, and exhaust manifold $300

Good luck
 
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Don't Jerry Rig it...... Repair this correctly with OEM parts. It will go another 20 years if you do.

Don't waist a dime on a direct drive OEM or OEM over-hauled starter motor.
These are now available in a HTGR/PMGR motor that will outperform the OEM 2 to 1.

The 131 and 151 can use the auto version circ pump according to Eduardo.

The Delco 10si is a decent replacement. The 10si can be a 1 wire, or 3 wire.
Do a search..... often these are under $100.
 
altinator is fine, starter is fine and i have a new after market one I picked up for $50 just in case. Rob, that would be great if you had a tube . Tilt work fine after being fixed. there was a broken wire inside the insulation that you couldn't see. Now it tilts up and down fine. I must admit, worm gear is a lot slower than a typical tilt! Jerry what is "drive pickup assy " and how do i tell if it has gone south? And "The outdrive probably needs to be disasembled to repair the water pickup" how can you tell? I plan on (or thought about) replacing the ponts with electronic ignition down the road, any thoughts? PLease go to youtube and see her run Aq131 "Debzfault"
 
Unless you are having issues with the Reverse Latch bearing sleeve and/or upper pivot tube bushing, there is usually no need to remove the entire AQ series drive for any work.
Remove the transmission and lower unit ONLY.
In fact.... if you do need to remove the Intermediate housing, I'd still recommend removing the Transmission first.... install Last!
Much easier this way, and I've been servicing these for over 20 years or so.

The Water Neck fitting would be on my list. These are to be considered a wear item.... and must be routinely replaced.
While off, check the condition of the upper pivot tube bushing.
If this bushing offers excessive play, it will affect the water neck beaded gasket seal in short order.
A replacement does involve transmission and lower unit removal from the Intermediate housing.




It's JURY rig not jerry.
Jerry, I guess that it depends on which part of the country we are from.

Jerry or Gerry rigging in my neck of the woods, has pertained to shoddy workmanship or shoddy parts being used.
Jury rigging..... as in a court case Jury...., has pertained to tampering with and/or twisting the truth, etcetera.

I can't explain what a man named Jerry or Gerry would have to do with shoddy workmanship.
But I will suggest that a court Jury typically has little to do with mechanical work... unless one of the Jurors just happens to be a mechanic! :D

Make sense?
 
Jerry what is "drive pickup assy " and how do i tell if it has gone south? And "The outdrive probably needs to be disasembled to repair the water pickup" how can you tell?
 
#24 is the hose connection to the drive.
Cant see it well but the bottom of the pic is a tube.That can go bad and leak #24 is the first place to look.
It has a replacement that has a thicker washer(seals better)
I sent you a PM9596.jpg
 
AUGUST2011 132.jpgAUGUST2011 139.jpgAUGUST2011 137.jpgAUGUST2011 082.jpgAfter examing the motor and parts, all that everybody said makes more sense to me.There was a chrome type tube/pipe that is capped off that leads to the outdrive. This is where the raw water pipe goes and connects to the raw pump? What jerry said is true? the drive went south so the dude went through to the hull, he put a flush hose fitting in with a ball valve shut off. This was to start the boat out of the water, hook a hose up, shut valve and let her run? what would go south in the drive to make someone go through all this trouble drilling in the the hull and Micky Mouse ing thing back together.This is my fall/winter list

1) Drill/tap out raw Pump replace Inlet tube
2)Fix Drive Pick Up?Should I?or keep in Hull?
3) Impeller kit
4)Electronic Ignition Install
5)Replace Bellows
6)Replace Water Neck or inspect at least

any more suggestions? Review photos please
There are far worse Hobbies out there.....a little at a time will get'her done!!!
 
Above the alt. there is a water resivoire/strainer. Put a shield of some sort to shield the alt. from water.
Water neck,it looks like they tried to seal it and it didn't work so the whole assy.might need to be redone,dismantle the drive to replace the tube and seals.
The pick up is in the floor might as well use it.
Marinepartseurope.com and compare part #s to see if the tubes match.
By the yellow tag at the back.There is a grease fitting(maybe)on the bellhousing.Might be a screw there.Lube that spot.
 
Question, if i replace the inlet tube to raw pump, recoonect to the drive.... would it work? what is inside the drive pick up that would prevent water being pumped into the raw water circulator? Would it be safe to assume the water flow is created through vacuum created by the impeller in the raw water pump? As long as it is a air tight sealed system it should work? My main question which has yet to be answered, " what inside the drive assembly that could fail to make the original system work"? Why would one go through all the work and go through the hull for pick up? I could alway use the hull pick up and install a small livewell.
 
12656.jpgTHe tube in the drive that connects to the pickup could be sucking air.That's whay the other guy replaced it with a through hull.
You can fix ANYTHING if you want to take it all apart and replace with new.
Or you can put a T on the pickup and run the motor and a live well.#19/17 goes bad.
 
scortoncreekfisher,

FYI..... the first image posted is of a 290 style drive, and the second image is of a "C" and later drive.
Your engine/drive is the AQ 131A w/ the 275 drive, of which your lower "pivot" tube configuration is considerably different from that of the "C" drive.
You will want to be looking at the 275 drive schematics for any parts that you need for the drive!
See the AQ 131A for any engine components.



  1. Question, if i replace the inlet tube to raw pump, recoonect to the drive.... would it work?
  2. what is inside the drive pick up that would prevent water being pumped into the raw water circulator?
  3. Would it be safe to assume the water flow is created through vacuum created by the impeller in the raw water pump? As long as it is a air tight sealed system it should work?
  4. My main question which has yet to be answered, " what inside the drive assembly that could fail to make the original system work"?
  5. Why would one go through all the work and go through the hull for pick up? I could alway use the hull pick up and install a small livewell.
scortoncreekfisher,

1..... If you were to replace all other parts, and/or at least inspect them, yes! This is why I suggested earlier to bring this all back to OEM. Do this, and you will not have any issues!

2..... Nothing within the actual drive, other than crustaceans if you have been in sea water. But there is more to this.

3..... Absolutely..... this is why any small suction breach will KILL a sea water pump system.... such as the AQ series drive offers.

4.... See #2 above.... and understand that the lower "Pivot Tube" O-ring must be good, and that the water neck and special beaded gasket must also be good. I see that red sealant has been used on yours.

5.... Laziness and perhaps no understanding of how the OEM system works. Many attempt this work without an OEM service manual, or without visiting a forum such as this one.


Also, there is an upper pivot tube bushing within the Main Suspension Fork.
The water neck fitting "beaded gasket" seals against this tube.
If the bushing offers pivot tube slop, the beaded gasket will eventually loose contact with the top of the pivot tube.... eventually causing a suction breach...... just what you're trying to avoid!


In order to replace this bushing, the Transmission and Lower Unit must be separated from the Intermediate housing. The pivot tube is somewhat soft..... so treat this with extreme care when removing it. We do not want to damage either end of this tube!
A tad bit of heat on the Intermediate housing will slightly expand it, allowing the tube to release more easily.


I'll guarantee you that if you bring this all back to OEM, and in good working order, it will work as expected.


.
 
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Ricardo, you rule! Great info. I am waiting on some parts before I start working on the system. I also need to get the busted screw out of the raw pump, which I am not sure I can do w/o screwing the threads up(lol). I will post photos when I begin work. Many thanks to you and Jerry who seem to be huge contributors to this forum!
 
I took the at raw water pump off to see if i or someone can get the busted bolt out of the housing and i was a little surprised(not really) at the corrosion that was inside. Please let me know what you think, which parts are good/junk. If i cant get the scrfew out of the pump I am going to pick one up for $50 on flea bay.The aluminum housing under the pump, what is it? is the damage that important? I beleive the timing belt is under there , but I haven't looked at the manual yet.
 
photo (31).JPGphoto (30).JPGphoto (28).JPGboat pump 078.jpgboat pump 022.jpgboat pump 075.jpg
Do you see the busted screw? what is the rubber thing that i am holding? Does the corrosion on the timing belt cover matter? could i leave it be or buy a new one?
 
Ricardo,

It has been a long and slow process but I am taking my time to bring it back to OEM and to do it right. I have been finding used parts here and there and saving a boat load of $$$ doing so. I received a new used raw pump to replaced the one that i had with the busted screw in it (failed miserable trying to drill it out). I purchased new gaskets and screws to put back together. I purchased a set of tubes/pipes for the raw water inlet and ETC. I also bought a timing cover to replaced the corroded one (as u see in the picture). My question is, the timing cover is from a 125 or 145 (not sure) and was wondering if it would fit before i attempt to remove/replace.I notice the timing marks are different. The cover i ave goes to 40 and the new one goes to 30.. what kind of issues will i have will it fit? i ended up spending $125 for a used set of tubes, raw water pump and timing belt cover... great deal considering that the inlet tube itself is selling for $380ish alone. what are your thoughts. I also need the rubber hose that connects the water pick up to the inlet pipthat goes to the raw pump.... do you know the number or an idea of which auto hose i could rig?
 
RE: the thru hull water pickup vs the thru the drive one...

I've INTENTIONALLY changed all three Volvo I/O boats I've owned from thru the drive to thru the hull....BEFORE the "elbow failed"
Why you may ask....
To a large extent this is due to where I boat which is on Barnegat Bay in NJ which is infamous for shallow water and shifting sand bars. Running aground (or "polishing the prop tips") is a very common thing.

I've always felt that having the water pickup low on the drive would result in sand/mud laden water being sucked up in the cooling system and damaging the pump impeller on the way... That and an incident one year when I opened the petcocks to drain the block ( my first boat was RWC all the others FWC) and no water came out. After some digging with a coat hanger compacted mud started to come out of the drain... followed eventually by water... It took quite awhile to get the engine to drain clean water. Next spring, I went thru hull.

Having the intake on the drive also make it prone to incidents of overheating due to picking up floating debris ( some types of weed and plastic bags)

Having the pickup thru hull avoids both of these problems PLUS gives one the opportunity to plumb in a "T" fitting and valve to make flushing of the engine a possibility as well a making it a snap to winterize the engine. Tools for this... 3 to 4 ft garden hose and a 5gal pail!

Two of my boats had internal filters. This one has an external one. Will never go back to internal filter. I'm going to replace the current external strainer with one with a removable screen this spring.

See pix below


Thru_Hull_WaterInlet_2257.jpgThruHull_rawwaterinlet_internal_2266.jpg
 
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Capt. Bob,

I definately see your point of view and understand the pros and cons of the different set-ups. I am going to attempt to go back to the original inlet set up and if that fails I may convert back to the thru hull set up since it is already there as you can see. The most important thing is the engine cools efficiently and properly. I enjoy working on the motor as it i not that complicated and easy to access. I am sure that once it is completed I feel that much more satisfied when I get on the water.
 
I too understand Bob's need for the thru hull under his conditions.... and would probably do the same myself.
Your water surface temperature should not be an issue in Sandwich, Ma., so the deeper pick-up source will also be a non-issue.
However, unless you also have a need similar to Bob's....., I'd still recommend that you keep it OEM.

The chance of floating debris issues are potentially greater with the Thru Hull intake, with exception to that rare, illusive and occasional plastic bag being picked up by an I/O intake.

.
 
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So, how big a deal is taking the lower unit off?
I did the top but didn't know about the part UNDER the gooseneck.
The manual does not seem to describe removing the lower unit while it is still on the transom.
How many pieces fall on to the ground during the evolution?

That pump is kinda pricey.
For the original posters boat, would an electric 12V pump be a quick, easy fix? He already has the thru-hull connection.
 
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View attachment 2951
THe tube in the drive that connects to the pickup could be sucking air.That's whay the other guy replaced it with a through hull.
You can fix ANYTHING if you want to take it all apart and replace with new.
Or you can put a T on the pickup and run the motor and a live well.#19/17 goes bad.
Yes.... agreed. This would be the beaded gasket underneath the water neck fitting if I understand Jerry's comment.


View attachment 3011View attachment 3012.............
1..... what is the rubber thing that i am holding?

2..... Does the corrosion on the timing belt cover matter? could i leave it be or buy a new one?
1..... The rubber part is the pump's drive cushion. It acts as a cushion between the engine counter-shaft and pump shaft.

2..... If the timing marks are visible, or can be made visible..... you'll be OK.

1..... So, how big a deal is taking the lower unit off?
2..... I did the top but didn't know about the part UNDER the gooseneck.
3..... The manual does not seem to describe removing the lower unit while it is still on the transom
4..... How many pieces fall on to the ground during the evolution?

5..... For the original posters boat, would an electric 12V pump be a quick, easy fix? He already has the thru-hull connection.

The OP has his question answered, so I guess a Hy-Jack is OK.

1..... See your OEM manual. 7 fasteners, and the lower unit is free to be removed.
FYI: if you suspect any corrosion, the 3 aft-most fasteners may require that the lower unit case to be heated in the area of the "thread inserts".
Heat this area prior to attempting to remove these bolts. (same with the water neck fitting bolts)

2..... This is the Water Neck that you're calling a "gooseneck"?
When the w/n and the beaded gasket are routinely replaced, you will not have any trouble here.

3..... Seloc, Clymer or OEM manual? Use the OEM.

4..... Nothing should fall to the ground!

5.... Any and all sea water pumps must be RPM driven.... meaning that the water volume is proportunate to, and predicated by engine RPM.
More RPM = the need for more cooling water and visa-versa.

***********
Just a reminder........ Post #7.... no need to remove the entire drive unless pivot tube issues or latch
unit bearing sleeve access is needed.

***************
Many do not understand that the Water Neck fitting special "beaded gasket" is what actually seals the water neck fitting to the top of the pivot tube.
The two components actually articulate here, so the bead needs to be greased.... not sealed up!
You can seal the flat surfaces if you wanted to..... but leave the bead/pivot tube contact area greased.


At the lower pivot tube "O-ring" seal, there is no articulation/movement..... iow, all rotate together 1:1.

****************

SEQ #'s 10, 17 and 8 are the Water Neck, special beaded gasket and upper
pivot tube bushing respectively!

NOTE: as per post #17, this image being shown is of the C-1 or later drive, of which would not have been OEM w/ the AQ131.
(just an FYI on that)



attachment.php
 
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After a long winter buying gaskets, new inlet pump, cooling tubes and timing belt cover.. i believe i am almost ready to put her back together.i have only one question. The 90 degree elbow hose i bought from iboats that connects the chrome water pickup feed tube to the copper inlet tube that lead to the raw water pump seems not to be a snug fit, is it suppose to ? Granted i haven't attempted to clamp it on yet, but as a visual it doesn't look right. i am trying to upload pictures but i am having issues. Ricardo... any input?
 
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