Engine problems!!!

I have an older Chrysler 105. It runs fine for about 5 minutes, then quits and won't start again until it has sat for about an hour. After it stalls, I get no spark. After everything is cooled down, it will fire right up again... Suggestions? I desperately need this engine running in T- 6 days and counting. Taking my daughters to Lake Delton next week... Any help near Kewaunee or just online would be greatly appreciated. How do I figure out if my coil is good? Would it be that the coil is junk when it gets hot, but fine when cold? Could I replace that with a car style Blaster 2 coil?

Also, the guy I bought it from said it was "fogged" last fall, showed me a receipt. It checks out, but what does that mean? I got all the old gas out, put in a 50:1 mix of non ethanol 93 octane petrol. Brand new plugs. My wires say 76 on them.... Is that the year? How can I replace them when they look like they are built into the cap?

Can't change the wires unless they screw out.Be real careful.
Need serial# and model#.Profile?? You might be close to someone who can help.
First do a compression test.Is it pumping good water?Then check the overheat buzzer.Ground the thermo switch on the head.It should make the overheat buzzer sound off. It sounds like it's overheating,getting hot and shutting down.
outboardignition.com has test procedures for outboards.J

Model number is 1057H8H, serial is 2555. It's a 1978 (from info I found). How do I tell if it is pumping water? I haven't heard a buzzer, but I will go out right now and try that.

My water pump is junk. I am tearing the whole thing apart so I can see if it is something I can fix (I'm really handy) or something I need to replace. I will let you know how it goes. The Thermoswitch saved me from destroying a great little motor! I never new.

Not hard to fix.Does the buzzer work at all? The thermo switch won't do anything but send a signal to the buzzer when the motor gets hot.Turn key on and ground the switch(possible orange wire) it should make the buzzer work.If not then figure out why it won't work.That buzzer saves the motor not the switch.
The motor shuts down when it gets hot.Do a compression test.
Any lost blades on the impeller? Find them.

First off, I spelled knew wrong on a previous post. I apologize, I try to avoid spelling and grammar errors. Now that we have that out of the way... I have a severely abused impeller, a pitted water pump housing, and a shaft/waterpump seal that had vacated it's post. I looked everywhere... found the parts I needed in a few places, but got a bit of luck on my side when Anchor Marine in Appleton, WI, called me back to let me know that they could have my parts TOMORROW! I ordered the housing, impeller, new seal, etc... (the whole kit). I also found out that while I do have a 1978 105 h.p. Chrysler, with a couple of 1976 parts, I have a 1977 135 h.p. Chrysler lower unit. I was unaware when I bought this boat that it was such a hodgepodge of parts, but I won't complain when it's finished I'm sure! Tomorrow I will know for sure if I have the problem fixed. The buzzer worked when grounded, so I am unsure why I never heard a buzzer before the engine shut off. I have better than 130 PSI on every cylinder, with the highest being 147. I think this seems like a good range but if it isn't then let me know!

The comp should be close, say 140# on all(different guages read different).Any big difference say greater than 10-15# might cause some concern.
Get the readings on all cylinders(do it twice)post them.
Some Power Tune or Seafoam will help remove some carbon buildup and bring up the numbers.J