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1995 Force 40hp - small miss while running 3000 - 5000 rpms

castuckey

New member
I'm trying to troubleshoot a new issue with this motor.

Brief history of the motor. It was sitting up for 2 or 3 years when I got it. All new fuel lines, rebuilt fuel pump, carburetor, new gas tank, new primer bulb, new plugs, new plug wires and new water impeller.
The motor started up and ran fine but had a high idle that I started to chase and couldn't get and ended up getting the timing out whack. Brought it to an outboard mechanic he got it tuned in and running. First trip out on it from the mechanic and it ran fine but there was this odd miss occurring at the 5000 - 5200 rpm mark. I shrugged it off as maybe some rash in the carb. Checked the bowl and it was clean. The problem continued which is what prompted me to change out the plug wires. This helped some but not entirely. As of the last time I took it out it was slow to take off and when I got on plane I was still having the misses. I've slowed it down to 4000 rpms and 3000 rpms and it made no difference, still had the miss.

The miss is a drop in 100 rpms +/- every 45 - 60 seconds.

When I explained the issue to my mechanic he suggested a change in plugs from perma-gap to traditional plugs. No change.

I started testing the ohm readings on my electronics and think I may have found the issue but wanted a second opinion.

The startor low speed (blue and blue-white wires) should read between 3500 and 3650 ohms. On two multi-meters I had a reading of 4100 ohms. On the high speed (red and red-white wires) it should read between 75 and 90 ohms. It had a reading between 100 and 105 ohms. I ran the motor on the cups to bring it up to operating temperature and tested the stator again. This time the low side read 6500 ohms. The high side read between 100 and 105.

I'm going to replace the ignition coils sine I dropped one and busted one of the magnets. But given the above information is my problem most likely stator related?

Thanks for any direction.
 
outboardignition.com has test procedures for the Force electrical system.
Try it again and if there is a discrepancy change the stator.J
 
outboardignition.com has test procedures for the Force electrical system.
Try it again and if there is a discrepancy change the stator.J

Thanks, that site is what lead me to troubleshooting the ignition system for my miss and finding, what I suspected, was an issue with the stator. The only thing I have not done is check the voltage from the stator while running. Is the stator voltage supposed to be a constant output or does it increase with the engine RPM?
 
Just a little update in case someone else has a similar issue. I couldn't bring myself to replace the stator yet at the tune of $200+ so I bought a timing light and remote starter. I checked the timing at cranking speed at full throttle and found that the timing was at or around 24 or 26 degrees btdc. Book says, at cranking speed, it should be 32. Adjusted the trigger linkage and am now at 32 degrees btdc at cranking speed. I'm eager to get it out on the water and see if that made a difference.
 
Best of luck on the timing. But if does not work you will need that stator for sure. I am not trying to sell you one, but there are plenty on ebay fo 100 or less. Cranking speed can vary depending on the battery and not 100%reliable when it comes to WOT (full throttle)timing checks. So maybe ok there.
Also resistance checks are also not always 100% reliable when it come to electrical components as th need be unhooked and do not have a real load on them. Must do a voltage test, with components connected. I use paper clips in the connectors and hook my meter clips onto them.

"Is the stator voltage supposed to be a constant output or does it increase with the engine RPM?"

Stator voltage is constant, as soon as the flywheel starts spinning. And yes output will go up at higher rpms. Thus your problems..
The 2 sets of wires represent a high and low speed coil as you mentioned. It will miss at higher rpms if the high speed coil is out. This change from one to the other is set at a certain rpm.
I do not have a manual handy, but the low speed coil usually does not exceed low-midrange operation.

As far as testing it, you will need to have a DMM (digital multi-meter) for this. You will also need one that has a DVA (digital voltage adapter) extension for measuring AC voltage(keeping meter on dc setting).
Voltage only turns to DC volts after going through rectifier,before reaching the battery. Test it a cranking speed only, it should be putting out as a general rule 100v-300v.
Of course you having a problem at higher rpms, I would warm it up good before testing. In case its an insulation break down problem.
Or just replace the stator.
Hope this may help you some. -CT1
 
Thanks for the info newb197. It appears that the adjustment in timing has fixed my issue. I took a video of my first run after the timing adjustment. No miss or flutter in the upper RPM range anymore.

http://youtu.be/fk2Yy6pgpyQ

Best of luck on the timing. But if does not work you will need that stator for sure. I am not trying to sell you one, but there are plenty on ebay fo 100 or less. Cranking speed can vary depending on the battery and not 100%reliable when it comes to WOT (full throttle)timing checks. So maybe ok there.
Also resistance checks are also not always 100% reliable when it come to electrical components as th need be unhooked and do not have a real load on them. Must do a voltage test, with components connected. I use paper clips in the connectors and hook my meter clips onto them.

"Is the stator voltage supposed to be a constant output or does it increase with the engine RPM?"

Stator voltage is constant, as soon as the flywheel starts spinning. And yes output will go up at higher rpms. Thus your problems..
The 2 sets of wires represent a high and low speed coil as you mentioned. It will miss at higher rpms if the high speed coil is out. This change from one to the other is set at a certain rpm.
I do not have a manual handy, but the low speed coil usually does not exceed low-midrange operation.

As far as testing it, you will need to have a DMM (digital multi-meter) for this. You will also need one that has a DVA (digital voltage adapter) extension for measuring AC voltage(keeping meter on dc setting).
Voltage only turns to DC volts after going through rectifier,before reaching the battery. Test it a cranking speed only, it should be putting out as a general rule 100v-300v.
Of course you having a problem at higher rpms, I would warm it up good before testing. In case its an insulation break down problem.
Or just replace the stator.
Hope this may help you some. -CT1
 
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