4 hp Sears and Roebuck running to hot

I bought this motor at the flea market for $21 it ran but not well. Turned out the carb was filled with junk. Its running alot better now. I had the lover end apart beacuse i saw it wasnt peeing. I was later told its not your normal water cooled enigine it just cools the exhaust? Well anyways i checked the impeller and it is a little beat up. I put just the lower end of the motor in water and hooked a drill up to the drive shaft. The water was coming up the "tube" (whatever it may be called) so i magine thats not the problem for no water coming out with the exhaust. Can these motors run for long periods of time without the impeller working ... im guessing not. Also it does not seem to get as high in rpms as it should i messed with the bottom jet on the carb and got it a little higher rpm but not much. Also rtv sealent was used for a gasket is that ok or should cut my own gaskets?

Hello and Welcome Kevin,
First off your outboard is a hybred water and air cooled engine and defiantly needs the water pump working to keep the lower crank seal from failing and to keep the piston from melting away. also the water pump seals play a big roll in keeping the pressure up at the base plates....I like to think of them as a heat sink, on the newer AV817 models there is actually a water jacket on the bottom side of the cylinder, depending on model you may not have that feature.

What I suggest is to clean and rebuild the carb, replace the impeller and drive shaft seal at the pump, do a gasket replacement at the base plates. I do not care for RTV sealants on these gaskets and I personally use a product called hylomar from permatx for those gaskets, it never hardens and seals the best but will still alow you to take it apart with out destroying the gaskets.
there are several great sources for parts, Eskaman2008 from ebay fame and www.certifiedpartscorp.com you need to call them, I highly recommend a parts manual or you can use the sears parts lookup with your model number to get the parts numbers when you order from certified....sears is a bit pricy on shipping.

Look through the Eska files under the Eska outboard forum for additional links and help. And post back your model number here so we can use it to help you better. Good luck,
MrCrabs

Thanks for the quick response. I will be taking the lower end apart one last time (hopefully) Ill take some pictures of the impeller, id like to not replace the impeller if possible i dont want to put to much money into the motor. It looked like it was in decent shape. The driveshaft seel you are talking about, do you mean the seel at the shaft that pumps the water up or the drive shaft? Also with the sealent and gaskets. I wasnt using a gasket at all i was just using rtv sealent. the gaskets were destroyed when i took it apart. So so they sell gaskets or should i cut my own? Also i have a spare lower end if anyone need one.

I personally never use RTV sealant on any outboard, theres always a chance that it squeezes out or apart and fowls the cooling system, however they say the Black permatex is much better than it used to be, Now on big outboards I do use a 3M product for water pumps and to coat some bolts...works like a thread locker http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-Gasket-Adhesive-5E125?Pid=search. But you don't need any sealant at the pump on a Eska but if you have had the power head off and need new gaskets call www.certifiedpartscorp.com gaskets are cheap and there shipping has in the past been postage only. You really don't need gasket sealer on any of the powerhead gaskets if you clean the mating surfaces well, but I do use some stuff myself called hylomar by permatex...non hardening and makes setting in place and take aparts a breeze. hylomar is the racers edges.... www.hylomarsealant.com/_resources/_html/products.html generally one tube of these products last for years for most guys and you will soon see exactly what you miss with RTV sealants meant for short lived temporary repairs.

I might be interested in you extra lower unit....PM me