Logo

1976 Evinrude 6hp (need some help)

Cdory

Member
Okay so I have a 1976 Evinrude 6hp kicker motor on my hands.

2 Problems:

1. Only have spark in one spark plug (2 cylinder 2stroke) and can't get the fly wheel off.
2. Can't seem to move the shifter that puts it in neutral and reverse.

As far as problem 1 goes with the spark, I am trying to get the flywheel off to get to the electrical and start trouble shooting but I can't seem to get the darn thing off. I don't have a flywheel puller and tried to make a homemade one with wood but it broke. Now I have some experience with getting these buggers off on lawnmower and other small engines so I know how it is done, but I have no leverage on anything with this motor, unlike lawnmower and such. If anyone has a secret to getting these bad boys off please share!

As for problem numero dos, the lever will not budge. I have not really looked at it much. There is a spigot for a grease gun, so I will try that. If anyone has had this problem please share, otherwise I'm sure I can figure it out eventually. Just looking for a few cents on this one.
 
Check the lower unit for water ( jammed with rust ) for the reason the shifter won,t move.------------------You have to use the 3 holes in the flywheel 1/4-20 NC to pull the flywheel.---------Other methods can be expensive.------------It likely has a bad coil ( burn thru to ground ) as the reason for no spark on one.--------The lower unit will have to be pulled off to inspect / replace the pump impeller !!
 
To take the lower unit off, do I need to remove the power head? I know some engines need the power head to be removed first so you can take a few bolts/nuts off the shifting rod so it can slide down. Do you know if that is the case here?
 
The powerhead does NOT have to come off to inspect / change impeller.--------The connecter is at the joint ( you will see it there ).--------------You do have to spin the flywheel slowly as you drop the lower unit.---------------There is a drive pin for the mechanical seal that needs to come thru a slot.
 
O'l righty then. Thank you for that knowledge. I will get the lower unit off maybe sometime tomorrow and check it out.

As for the spark, I managed to get spark going in the top cylinder. The problem was the point(s). The one with no spark was set under the recommended .020, and after I properly set it to the .020 width, BAM LAMBA JAM she had spark!

Next step is to get the carbs all clean and get it fired up.

Would you recommend getting the shifter to work before firing it up? Or would it not matter?

I'll keep you guys posted...and thank you.
 
Be sure to lubricate the rubbing block on the points and the cam or the points will quickly close down again.
 
O there is plenty of grease in there already, had to take some out there was so much.

So I moved on to the carbs today and boy were they nasty. Cleaned it all out and can't seem to get it running. For some reason though when I had it disconnected from the fuel tank and still fuel in the float bowl, I checked to see if there was still spark and the thing fired over two or three pops with only one spark plug in. But I can't get it to fire at all now, and I still have spark (even tried starter fluid). It is a pull start so it gets tiring very fast, if you know what I mean.

So, after being frustrated with the pull start. I moved onto the lower unit. I go to take off the first bolt, and it was not wanting to move. Then all of a sudden the dam head of the bolt popped off. That's when I said to myself, "self, you %$#@ed now!" Last time I tried to extract a broken bolt, the extractor broke off. I really don't wanna have to deal with this. How can I prevent this on the next 3 bolts, heating em up a bit?
 
A propane torch is essential when removing these bolts. The aluminum will absorb a lot of heat so it will take a minute or two for the metal to expand. Do not apply a lot of force to the wrench...when the metal expands, the bolt will eventually release...give the torch time to work. If the broken bolt has any portion sticking out after the lower unit is removed, you may be able to grab it with vise grips, use the torch again and it will come out. Many people feel an "easy out" is incorrectly named! They do work but unless you use a special bit to drill the stainless bolt, and you are careful to make sure the hole is dead center, and you use the torch to heat the housing, the results may be less than perfect. Use a new spark plug to test for spark...sometimes a conductive deposit on the plug will give false results. Go easy on the starting fluid...it can cause its own problems by washing away the oil film you need for compression....speaking of which...it might be a good time to take a compression test to test for any other problems... I know what you mean about the pull cord getting harder to pull... They didn't seem that difficult in 1976! Shovels, hammers and wheel barrows also seem heavier...what could cause that?
 
So I just got back from vacation after 15 days of not trying to start the motor and gave the kicker a pull, and bam started up on the first pull!

Don't know how and don't really care, but it is running like a thorough bread now.

I noticed that it wasn't peeing, so I'll be looking at the water pump and pulling the bottom end off after I get this broken bolt out ): See what is really going on down there.

Would you guys recommend some special anti seize for marine use to prevent this in the future, or will any old anti-seize do the job?
 
two types of anti seize---copper and silver (alum/nickel), You can only use one and I forget which one. The wrong one will cause problems.
 
Is this motor supposed to be peeing? I don't see a pee hole anywhere on it, and it is not peeing. Does it come out somewhere else down by the prop? I looked at a few youtube videos and it looks like it has water coming out by the exhaust down towards the prop, but not such much of a pee, just shooting water out.
 
Thanks, I got the motor put in gear and started to get a little water to shoot out, but not much. And when it is at low rpms such as idle it's not really shooting any water out. If I rev it up it will start to shoot water out for a bit then stop 10 or 15 seconds when the rpms drop back down to idle (This water is HOT! also, almost feels like it is boiling).

Would this be a bad water impeller thingy? I tried getting to it but just about every screw on this damn motor is seized, and ended up breaking one of the screw heads that holds the cover of the water impeller. This has become very frustrating, because I hate dealing with stripped screws ):

Should there be a steady flow of water shooting out of the exhaust at all times?

On a side note, the motor refuses to idle. When I cleaned the carbs it was set at 2.5 turns out but it just dies when I try to get it to idle. Would it be a good to turn the knob richer or leaner?

Thanks again!
 
Changing the water impeller is not real difficult. I know because I did it on my 72 6HP. If I can do it, anyone can. There should be water shooting out the opening about six inches above the water. Even at idle. getting those screws off the impeller housing can be difficult. I put new stainless screws in with the grey never seize. Hope that's right. I would get a service manual if you are going to do much work on the motor.
 
I'm having trouble getting the upper housing on the impeller off. I have removed the four screws that hold it down, but the dam thing won't slide up and off. I am talking about the top cover that holds the impeller. I have tried hit it with a hammer and even a chisel, but the thing won't budge!

Any advice?!?!

Really need some help here!
 
PB blaster, a propane torch, and when in doubt, drill it out.

I'm fighting a similar cooling problem on my 4hp. But I hear the 6 is way different. Do you have any idea what temps your engine is running at?
 
I would like to refrain from drilling it out. Replacing that housing would cost me close to $100, I could buy a whole new lower end for around that much or a new motor for that matter. Speaking of which does anyone know where I can get a new lower end for this thing?

I have no idea what temp it is running at, I could check it for you as I have an inferred thermometer. I don't know where to check the temp at though...
 
Does it matter what type of oil I am putting in the lower end. I believe the guys down at the boat shop told me it didn't really matter (car motor oil) what oil I put in those little kickers. Or does it matter?
 
This little evinrude is really starting to cause me problems...I took it out to do some fishing this morning. Was trying to troll, but the handle will slide back to the slow/idle position. I lubed up all the little grease nipples on it and it made it turn much easier but now it wont stay in an open throttle position. Shouldn't it almost stick to where you want it? Is there some kind of friction thing in the handle that I might have accidentally got some lube/grease on?

Also, it doesn't want to idle. I have to play the throttle to keep it going. I have tried turning the air-screw all the way in and like 4 turns out as well as everything in between. It doesn't seem to affect the motor no matter which way I turn it. Now I have cleaned the carbs but maybe I missed something so I will check again. Any other thoughts as to what it could be?
 
This little evinrude is really starting to cause me problems...I took it out to do some fishing this morning. Was trying to troll, but the handle will slide back to the slow/idle position. I lubed up all the little grease nipples on it and it made it turn much easier but now it wont stay in an open throttle position. Shouldn't it almost stick to where you want it? Is there some kind of friction thing in the handle that I might have accidentally got some lube/grease on?

Also, it doesn't want to idle. I have to play the throttle to keep it going. I have tried turning the air-screw all the way in and like 4 turns out as well as everything in between. It doesn't seem to affect the motor no matter which way I turn it. Now I have cleaned the carbs but maybe I missed something so I will check again. Any other thoughts as to what it could be?
If turning the air fuel mix screw does nothing the lowspeed orfice is cloged.Clean it again clean soak clean,blow out with compressed air.Dont forget to use solvent to soak and clean.I after that use spray carb cleaner then air.Good Luck
 
Replaced the fuel line yesterday, got one on sale for cheap as the one on there was leaking air. Didn't seem to make a difference. I also replaced all the fuel lines on it because they were cracked as well as inspected the fuel pump.

The motor runs fine just above idle and a little under WOT, just purrs and sounds like it should. But when I give it WOT it sputters and boggs (but doesn't die). I re-cleaned the carb again today, TWICE! Thinking about replacing the spark plugs on it as well as the float inside the carb. The float is all cruddy and does not look pretty what so ever.

I probably should have mentioned this before but when I first cleaned the carb the high speed jet did not want to come out and I ended up striping it so it has not been removed, BUT I cleaned it out nicely and have a clear orifice in there. Would this matter, should I drill it out? Should I just shove an easy out in there as the brass is nice and soft and try to get it out that way?

Let me know if you guys have any advice for me.
Thanks a ton for all of it so far!
 
All the fuel must go thru the high speed jet !!!!------------High speed and low speed fuel go thru it.-----------The passage way that splits off to the side and goes thru the bowl gasket ( low speed ) must also be absolutely clean.--------You may want to look for a new fuel bowl and jet to solve this " problem motor "
 
The high-speed jet is clean as a whistle down there.

However, I may have found the culprit to this problem. I recently bought a 1960 Johnson 5.5 that was not running from a guy for 20 bucks as a project. I noticed when taking the carb apart that the long idle needle that is used to adjust the idle speed comes to a sharp point. I just so happened to have the one from my evirude sitting right next to it and they were not the same! The one from the evinrude or "problem motor" tappers down but looks like it has been chopped off half way down and comes to NO point what so ever. So then I took a strong flash light to where the idle needle goes and sure enough the end of that idle needle is broken off in there. This would explain the reason there is no change when I lean or richen the motor... I tried drilling it out but after many failed attempts at trying to drill something you can't see I came to the conclusion that it was a bad idea.

I will try to post a picture of this tomorrow sometime to show you because it is hard to explain and I will be rambling forever about it. But there is a little metal plug that sits over where it is stuck and I am hoping it is a big enough hole to get in from behind. Just not sure as to the proper way to remove it, I saw a guy in a video just hit it with a punch and rip it out.
 
Anybody know what the shift linkage looks like on this motor up towards the handle. I got another lower unit off an earlier model. This one disconnects at the shifter with two nuts (the shift rod is threaded at the end). Which requires the removal of the power-head to get to.
 
Back
Top