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Honda 100 idles great, dies when put into gear

I didnt try and adjust the NSS but the switch itself was working propery - short when in nuetral, open when in F or R.

Yup, I have mixed feelings on disabling the NSS because of the safety aspect - but the outboard sure seems to run nice with out it..

You guys posted this a few messages back:
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So, if the engine wants to die when placed in gear, it could be the ignition shutting down due to one or more of the following;

Low oil pressure.
Faulty oil pressure switch.
Faulty oil pressure indicator lamp.
Internal open in the CDI module's oil pressure indicator circuit.
Faulty connections or wiring between the CDI connector and oil pressure switch.
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I have no idea what the problem is but my oil pressure lamp and sensor appear to be working fine. The lamp lights up when the engine is running and this afternoon I watched the lamp when I closed off the air to the carb. As the engine is dying, the oil pressure light pulses slower and slower as the engine revolutions slow.

But when I had the NSS in place, I could move the shift lever and trip the NSS without shifting. The oil pressure light just went off - like a switch was thrown. How the oil pressure light went off was way different between the two cases.

Seems my problem is solved (at least for the moment), thanks again..
 
The power of search engines!
THANK YOU ALL for the fix. I picked up my 10hp honda for a song...ya get what you paid for. All of 60 seconds of work and my motor is running fine. The disconnecting of the switch IS that easy, and that affective. I do understand the safety concerns...just means I'll have to be extra careful.

Thanks again!
 
So why not use a bosch 5 prong relay triggered by an oil pressure signal to hold the closed circuit. then when the motor is turned off or dies for some other reason(rock) the operator will have to return it to nuetral to restart
 
The relay idea is viable but only if a 12 volt battery were on board to power it. That would only make sense in the case that;
1 his old 100 has a charge coil. (Many or most did not)
2 he had a logical need for carrying a battery for something useful like a trolling motor or live well. Using it just to power a relay really wouldn't make much sense.
I know what you're thinkin'....power it with Just the charge coil...if he has one...hmmm. I'll think about that one.
 
The relay idea is viable but only if a 12 volt battery were on board to power it. That would only make sense in the case that;
1 his old 100 has a charge coil. (Many or most did not)
2 he had a logical need for carrying a battery for something useful like a trolling motor or live well. Using it just to power a relay really wouldn't make much sense.
I know what you're thinkin'....power it with Just the charge coil...if he has one...hmmm. I'll think about that one.

I did this once to a semi that wouldn't start because the ecu wouldn't establish a ground path for the starter relay. so I put in a relay and it worked. I am not an outboard mechanic and I appreciate any feedback I can get as there is a guy on my dock with this same problem. from what I am reading its a parts availability problem. I almost forgot, after he got the motor back from the repair shop the oil light stayed on as it should, a bit later it stopped working.
 
Oh, the neutral switch can still be had. See item 13 in the link below. It's just that most people don't want to spend the dough.

The lamp is also available...item 14 on the parts page. Although, it's a good idea to check the wiring and the oil pressure switch before condemning the old one.

The switches get crud in them from the oil because the sump filters in these old dogs can't be cleaned unless you pull the powerhead off of the oil pan. No one does it unless they're digging around for something else. So, every one that I've been in has MUCH0 sludge in there!

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/0/BF75F LA/FLYWHEEL/parts.html
 
Just wanted to say thank you! This post is old as dirt, but served to precisely solve my problem. Just bought a honda 100 on a 14' skiff, he sold 'er cheap because the engine kicked out when thrown into gear. Reading this thread fixed my motor, and FAST!! I, too, bypassed the NSS, easily found the two wires and connected them together. Even knew there'd be a male & female end to make the job a piece of cake!

Thank you thank you. Now to get out on the water!!

Done... on my outboard, there is a two wire set that comes from the CDI module and plugs into a set of wires going to the nuetral "cause a problem" switch. I just disconnected the wire set and plugged the two wires together that go to thd CDI module (ie, I shorted the two wire set going to the CDI). This is the same electrically as what the NSS did when in nuetral. There was even a male and female connector on this set, made it easy.

So far, this seems to have completely solved the problem....
 
Ha ha.....GREAT! I love it when I hear of another of these old gals are still makin' wakes!

Just keep in mind the VERY REAL DANGER of starting the outboard while still in gear and being tossed overboard with your boat circling you like a hungry shark. Or, worse yet, she fires up, you go down and bang your head.

BAD JU -JU!

THANK YOU THOUGH FOR THE THANK YOU!
 
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