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Converting from fresh water to raw water

C

CaptainGlenn

Member
My Lancer came with a fresh water system because it's old life was salt water. I'm in the Ohio and it's new life will be on rivers and lakes. So I have removed the system and do not know which ports hook to what or which ports I should plug?

360 Engine 004.JPG
 
Why would you remove a working fresh water system. If it was not working is would be worth repairing. Antifreeze is the optimum way to cool your engine and protect it.
 
PUT IT BACK ON!! Doesn't it freeze in Ohio in winter? Why would you want to winterize the block every year? Especially a Chrysler.
 
Ditto the above.
In addition to the superior cooling and freeze protection......, you still have corrosion issues to deal with even in river/lake water.
If the cylinder head gasket is not designed for raw water, you will likely have issues..... it's just a matter of time.
Again, even if in River/Lake water.

This is fact, not speculation.

Sorry to sound so gruff on this, but I'd strongly encourage you to keep the Closed Cooling system alive.

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I have full intention of putting it back on at some point. It need to be cleaned inside and out and the mounting brackets were junk. Once I get use to things, then I can make new SS brackets and do a better job fitting it under the engine box. So for now how can/should I hose it up?
 
Glen, IMOO, in the time that it will require you to circumvent the Closed Cooling system, find fittings, run hoses, this and that....., you could very likely have the CC System re-furbished, and ready to re-install.

Don't do this to yourself! :D
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I'm in the Ohio and it's new life will be on rivers and lakes
Click to expand...
Oh yes that water is so much cleaner than the ocean.

The pic is small and I can't make out much detail, but what I can see makes me nervous, for you. The first thing that jumps out at me is the long unsupported water tube going to the bottom of the manifold. While it hasn't failed yet, vibration can fatigue the elbow or the area around the threads so that it could crack or fall off. I suppose it's the same story on the other side. The other thing is what appears to be rust. Corrosion and marine engines don't go well together. Last thing is the rubber supply hose going to the carb. Ideally you want a hard line all the way from the fuel pump to the carby. Usually what happens is someone gets impatient with the flare fittings and busts off the end that goes to the carb. Snip. Replace busted section of fuel line with a hunk of hose, badda-bing. Highly recommend redoing the hard line or replacing with braided stainless and AN fittings.
 
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While I'm in favor of metal fuel lines, Trident Barrier Lined A1-15 Fuel Hose is an acceptible fuel line for this application.
NOTE: the correct barbed fittings and correct clamps for the hose OD must be used.
 
The motor, trany and bilge were all in bad shape. As we all know salt water in general is hard on equipment. The picture I posted was before I stripped the motor and trany. P5130011.jpg
I pluged all the open holes and soda blasted everything. I also had concerns over the tubes and in the course of removing them two of them twisted off becauce of the heavy rust.
I've aready shot myself in the foot by buying this project. The tramson wood was bad, so I that to take care of along with a long list of other items before a can lunch her and start to enjoy boating. That's the main reason to not take on the task of refitting the exchanger.
P5130010.jpg
I ran a new copper gas line. Is copper a good choise?
Thought it would be simple to set it up without the exchanger, at least for now so I can get in the water.
 
Copper can be used only if it is ASTM B68, Bright Annealed Seamless Copper Tube. If you used anything else (copper), or not sure of rating, remove it now and replace. No reason not to use more current materials that meet today's standards.
 
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Most older boats have copper lines between the tank and fuel pump and steel between the pump and carb. Go to NAPA and you can usually find a premaid steel line the right length and bend it yourself.

Dan
 
Thanks guy, but I'm still wanting to convert it to raw water. So I could still use some help with that.
I've been looking around on the internet and did read that I would need an water distribution tube. Can I run them with the 20 deg. elbows?
 
Some fresh water systems run coolant in the exhaust manifolds and some run raw water through the manifolds and out. This is important to know as the manifold will have a blocking plate preventing the water exiting out of the manifold, and will be a determining factor on how you plumb that circuit. Here are two schematics with a single pocket pump. One of FWC (RWC manifolds) which should be similar to your previous set up, and one of RWC setup. Hope it helps.
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The drawings help a little. It looks like my system had coolant running through the manifolds. It was also a plumbing nightmare, hence the reason to re-plumb it at a later time. I've been searching through as much information as I can find and I see that it might be a good ideal to install water distribution tubes. My boat is a straight inboard.

Thanks Again, Glenn
 
Now, don't tell anyone this, but my two 360s do NOT have the water distribution tubes. (I accidentally left one out, once, and found that the manifold ran cooler.) I also sinned by bringing the water in from the front! They cool perfectly, however, and have for years.

Jeff
 
What drive system are you running? With mine being an 23' straight inboard the motor sets at a pretty good angle. I believe IO's and V Dirve's are less of an angle?
It sounds good to me, with a tall angle.
 
Raw water--yes. The hose from the raw water pump (single not dual) goes to the motor and to the exhaust. I'll post some photos.

Jeff

Chrysler Water Routing-1.JPGChrysler Water Routing-2.JPGChrysler Water Routing-3.JPGChrysler Water Routing-4.JPG
 
Now Jeff, You KNOW that inlet hose on the Raw water pump gets a double clamp!!!

And I just happen to have a brand new distribution tube(ebasic power) just one though
OR

You can make your own out of copper pipe
 
..."You KNOW that inlet hose on the Raw water pump gets a double clamp!!!"

Correct, but the connection on my boat is well above the waterline and there's not a lot of room for a second clamp.

Jeff
 
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