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compression test in 1979 350 Chevy/Volvo

Rainbow Bridge

New member
Hi All,

My 1979 AQ260A 350 Chevy ...820 hrs in mostly salt water...about 200 hrs on new heads I did....

It runs about 145psi in all cyl except #3 which is 130-135psi

Since I've got the engine out now....would you replace it....or go for another 5 years....and bring a kicker for insurance....
smile.gif
???

thanks for your input

RussP4230517.jpg
 
It all comes down to time and money, IMO. 80% of the hassle involved with changing an engine is getting the old one out, so if you have a disposable $1,500-3,000 kicking around then sure, drop a new powerplant in there. I'd opt for a Vortec base engine, pop on a new flywheel and have at it.

If you rather put that $$ into the fuel tank (with gas at $4.75/gal) then I would clean up the engine you have, degrease it, blast some paint on it, change the starter, put it back in and run two bottles of SeaFoam through it on jerry jugs. I'd bet that compression comes right back up.

Thats my 2 cents.
 
Thanks Mike...I am leaning that way...speaking of SeaFoam...have you ever sprayed the deep creep into the spark plug holes and let it sit?

I read that REALLY cleans up the rings...but I'm thinking that after a while a shot of good 30wt would keep the rings lubed for first startup...

your thoughts?
 
Here's what I would do:

1. add 8 oz to 6 gallons of fuel in an outboard style tank
2. bypass your main fuel tank (properly plugging the main line)
3. run the boat at 3,000-3,200 rpms to deplete the fuel
4. repeat 1-3 a second time
5. with the engine warm, at temp., take a bottle of SeaFoam and pour it straight into the carb. She'll smoke like the Marlboro Man. Using your free hand jockey the carb to keep her running. After 1/3 of the bottle is gone pour it in heavy to choke out the engine. Let the engine sit 24-48 hrs.
6. fire up the engine and run it at 3,000-3,200 rpms for 15-20 minutes minimum
7. pull plugs and inspect (now would be a good time to change)
8. change your oil

Deep Creep is the same as SeaFoam, just in an aerosol version.

I'd bet a $ to a hole in a donut your compression bumps up.

What do you mean by 30 wt in the cylinder?
 
Thanks for that...

what i meant was...after spraying deep creep into the spark plug holes and letting it sit overnight..then squirting some 30 wt motor oil in....so the rings/cyl walls would be coated with oil before startup...was concerned that the deep creep sitting overnight would remove all lube causing metal to metal on startup ....
 
Oh, I wouldn't be too concerned with the startup. You could remove the coil wire and crank the engine over for a half dozen revolutions before firing it back up.

Note in the steps I outlined above, I mean to say run the engine under load at 3,000-3,200 rpms. Do not just rev the engine with the drive in neutral.
 
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