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'68 sea ray ..electric shift stringer w/ '78 chevy 305

D

dimitrimfogal

Regular Contributor
hello gentleman.. first of all wanna say thanx to all that helped me get this barge afloat...those who may remember ive had a list of issues getting this hoopty goin.. now shes runnin great ...engine and outdrive working very well.....question is...while runnin in the driveway at dusk this evening i noticed a spark at the alternator bracket at the tensioning bolt...not where the connections are but where you adjust the belt....mystery to me ..where do i start??? thanx in advance...dimitri
 
auto zone will check you alt for free. Say it tests ok then i think you have a pos wire grounding out somewhere else. My guess the solenoids that operate the tilt, they are located near the alt bracket.

There is also a ground wire for the tilt solenoids. Maybe clean it if i remember correctly it is on the backside of the bell housing thru bolt, run your hand on the bell housing screws and you should find the ground.

Also check the pos wire to the tilt solenoids it connects to a center bar that feeds both solenoids, you have a strand or it touching the block ?

Please post back we can go from there.
 
investigation continues this weekend ,thank you guys for somewhere to start i think i know where the missing ground is...thanx gents....dimitri....ps otherwise the out drive , shaft , and engine running great
 
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Delco and some other alternators use the bracket/mounting hardware for the current path on the ground side. Sounds like you might just need to clean the paint off and tighten some bolts.
 
dimitrimfogal said:
question is... while runnin in the driveway at dusk this evening i noticed a spark at the alternator bracket at the tensioning bolt... not where the connections are but where you adjust the belt....
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dimitri, your alternator should require a separate Negative connection..... (i.e., a short wire/cable from the alternator body, to the Engine Block Negative common!)

If the Alternator is trying to use the mounting or belt tensioning hardware for it's Negative path....., it may perhaps explain the sparks that you are seeing.

Just a thought!

.
 
well in this case4 the chief was right... i found 3 ground wires that i failed to connect durring my marathon motor swap...sure enough.. the sparking alternator is not sparking anymore...thanks guys...now ..newest issue is hard starting after sitting for a shor perioud....( a week) after about ten starts and stalls she'll run real good. but it takes quite a few tries...she starts and poops out...starts and poops out..is this normal?thanx in advance...dimitri
 
dimitrimfogal said:
after about ten starts and stalls she'll run real good. but it takes quite a few tries...she starts and poops out...starts and poops out..is this normal?thanx in advance...dimitri
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sounds like the choke is not working. need to observe it in action while someone else starts her up
 
dribble some gas in the carb. This new fuel just evaporates quickly.

How you starting it ? I wrote a post about how to start carbed motors.

I'll look for it.
 
How you running it ?

This is how i run a carbed motor. Cold i pump the throttle 2-3 times leave the throttle down 1/3 of the way and crank it. It starts i leave the throttle alone should run at about 1000-1500 rpm. Choke opens you hear the motor change, put the throttle in neutral for another minute or 2.

Then i slowly give throttle till i'm at say 300-3500 rpm i run 2/3 wot.

I want to stop i slowly back off the throttle till i come to a stop put throttle in neutral and aloow the motor to run at least 4-5 minutes at idle.

Shut off motor. Say i want to start after 30 minutes i try it in neutral no pumping nothing, crank it should start.

No start then a pump or 2 and back into neutral and crank no start then it's 1/3 down the thottle as a cold start.

Why i just write all this cause the idle at warm up and idle before shut down

I just copied and pasted it here from this website i am the author.
 
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