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1956 Johnson Seahorse

HowieWowie

New member
this engine runs like a charm but my gear lever bumped out of setting and I tried resetting with no luck. I took off the gear lever push it full forward and it holds in gear with no slipping on prop push it in full reverse no slipping but with handle on it slips out of gear forward and reverse not full out of gear but enough for turning motor looses in full compression, I was trolling fishing in shallow water slow speed bumped bottom and had this problem start when going back to landing it will take off almost top out of water but then rev up and lose thrust from prop the gear lever holds in place and does not jump out.:confused:
any suggestions
Thank you
 
yes it is a 10 hp Johnson Seahorse it has a a manual gear handle you pull it to go forward and push it back for reverse that is sitting on back of boat all manual steering and throttle on main handle it is just a small motor for my 12ft Jon boat when going in reverse or forward when rpm gets over 1/2 or a close guess then then motor revs up and loses the prop thrust but the gear handle stays in gear. I took the gear handle off again and put it in gear turned motor with prop when it gets to full compression the motor quits turning but the prop keeps turning but very tight almost like rubber inside prop is worn out,if they built them that way in 1956 with rubber but that I don't know. I checked engine parts but cant find a prop for this motor
 
ive got a 1965 johnson sea horse 5, the ignition coils are shot, will an entire coil set with points from a tn26, tn 27, tn28, fit on the the seahorse 5?
 
Those items are fairly cheap to get brand new.----------Go to top of this page and look for them under parts diagrams and parts for your motor.
 
Those coils are fairly cheap ( less than $20.00 each ) to get brand new.----------Go to top of this page and look for them under parts diagrams and parts for your motor.
 
i tried to look up my specific outboard my johnsons model wasnt listed. its a seahorse. i selected the year (1965) the horse power (5) and the model wasnt there. the only options it gave me was (5502) (5503) (LD-10) and (LDL-10) no seahorse. now ive got parts off a tn27. wont that fit the seahorse?
 
I know that !------Try one of the others the Evinrude models have the same parts.-Why would you trust old parts ( unless they were recently replaced )----The parts are all there at the top of this page.
 
Hayward.... You're hijacking HowieWowie's post. GO to the previous page and start a new post of your own which will start at the top of the page under your own title.

HowieWowie.... The following may be of interest to you.

(Jumping Out Of Gear - Manual Type)
(J. Reeves)

This pertains to lower units on all OMC manual shift outboard engines, or any OMC engine with lower units defined as a Shift Assist or a Hydro Electric Shift unit which incorporates a "Shifter Clutch Dog".

Within the lower unit, splined to the prop shaft is what is most often referred to as a clutch dog, hereafter simply called dog. The dog has at least two lobes protruding from it on both ends, facing both forward and reverse gear. The forward and reverse gears also have lobes built into them near their center area. When the engine is running, in neutral, the gears are spinning constantly via the driveshaft being connected directly to the powerhead crankshaft, but the propeller does not turn due to the fact that the dog is centered between the two gears, and the dog lobes are not touching either of the gear lobes.

When the unit is put into either gear, shift linkages force the dog (and its lobes of course) to engage the lobes of the gear. The lobes of the spinning gear grab the lobes of the dog, and since the dog is splined to the prop shaft, the propeller turns.

The lobes of the dog and gears are precisely machined, most with right angled edges that could be installed in either direction, and some with angles slightly varied that must be installed in one direction only (one end only must face the propeller). Dogs that can be installed in one direction only, if reversed, even if the dog and both gears were new.... would jump out of gear almost immediately. Keep in mind that the lobes are precisely machined with sharp angles!

Due to improper adjustment or worn shift linkages, but usually due to improper slow shifting, those precisely machined sharp edges of the lobes become slightly rounded. Now, with those lobes rounded, as the rpms increase, the pressure of the gear lobes upon the dog lobes increases to a point whereas they are forced apart (jumping out of gear), and due (usually) to the shift cable keeping tension on the engines shift linkages..... the unit is forced back into gear giving one the sensation that the engine has hit something, and the cycle continues.

Some boaters with manual shift engines have the mistaken belief that shifting slowly is taking it easy on all of the shifting components..... Wrong! Shifting slowly allows those precisely machined sharp edges of the dog and gears to click, clank, bang, slam against each other many times before they are finally forced into alignment with each other..... and this is what rounds those edges off! The proper way to shift is to snap the unit into gear as quickly as possible.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at
:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
 
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