Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Mercury 50 hp, 4 cyl, 1984 Model el

Yeah. No way they made them that accurately!

A case in point from this summer past: Bottom carb refused to stop leaking on me, even though I put a new needle and seat in and adjusted it "to spec". Dropped the float level a smidgen, and it ran fine for the rest of the summer. It doesn't take that much of a drop to make 'em behave.

Jeff
 
Just an update...
I have messed about with this outboard for quite some time. I have rebuilt the carbs, replaced the water pump, rewired her under the cowl...and she still had an issue with sometimes cranking and cranking, and other times starting right up. I noticed when I played with the kill switch, she would get some interruption of juice. Replaced it and all is fine. Cranks right up. Love this old thing..at least for now . :)

Thanks to all who provided input, and thanks to Davio for parting with her.
 
Correction...thought it may have been that switch. The outboard just cranked today. When it is right, this thing cranks right over. This interruption of electric???...could the coils need replacing? Supposedly davio had replaced the stator and trigger. What else? Starting to piss me off. :)
 
When having a bad cranking day,disconnect the mercury tilt switch,check for spark jumping 3/8",check compression,check plugs for fuel. Have a good look at the wiring in case there is a short somewhere,make sure all grounds are clean and tight.Is the battery fully charged?Good luck
 
A bad starter motor means slow cranking.---Slow cranking means " no spark " on these motors.-------Most folks will say that " my motor cranks just fine "----I say " it is easy to inspect / check a starter and costs nothing "--------Last batch of new brushes I got were $4.50 a set !!
 
I will look at all wiring and starter this weekend. Any possibility of switchbox (powerpack) going bad? I know haventaclue has provided some troubleshooting schematics and links to me before regarding a rectifier. Can anyone provide any on checking coils and powerpacks? Thanks again for your input guys.

Greg
 
If you have a good volt/ amp/ ohm meter, you can check the trigger coil and stator wires for continuity. The actual reading isn't important--just look for open circuits. (These are simple resistance checks.) You'll need a wiring diagram (in a good manual) to see which pair to check.

The switch box can't be checked by a home mechanic.

Jeff
 
Thanks Jeff. I am going to purchase a new switchbox anyway. Believe I may have had water/light oil bubbling from plastic crease on switchbox when applying pressure. All others check out for continuity. Might you have a good copy of a wiring diagram for this outboard?
 
60[1].jpg$T2eC16JHJHEE9ny2p6DoBQ!,7LNBCw~~60_57[1].jpg

Guys. The above images are of the wiring diagram and the stator assembly that davio had installed when he replaced it. If you look on the right side of the switchbox in the wiring diagram, you will notice that the stator wires are red/white to position 1, blue./white to position 2, black/yellow to position 3, blue to position 4, and red to postion 5.

Currently, with the new stator and the potted transformer looking thing attached to the blue wires, position 1 is open, blue/white to postion 2, black/yellow to position 3, blue to position 4, and position 5 is also open.

Anyone familiar with this and why or how the reds are eliminated in this newer application?
 
Correction,I ran the merc part number through google and it came up with the same stator you have.I'll try and find installation destructions for you.
 
And I haven't been able to locate an installation sheet,but I have found conflicting part numbers on two different sites for your outboard. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/M...HEEL, IGNITION COIL AND SWITCH BOX/parts.html
All wiring schematics that I have and those on-line that I have looked at show the red/white,red wires. So the best I can do is this pic,note the transformer/box tucked behind the starter.Ignore the one on the left,it uploaded by accident and I can't seem to be able to remove it:D
 

Attachments

  • '84 50HP Merc 1.jpg
    '84 50HP Merc 1.jpg
    75.3 KB · Views: 556
  • '84 50HP Merc Rectifier.jpg
    '84 50HP Merc Rectifier.jpg
    59.6 KB · Views: 416
Yeah Clue...that is my outboard on the right. Perhaps with that transformer, those wires are no longer needed???

Got into it a little this afternoon. I put new wiring from all coil grounds and replaced some other bad wire and connectors that were attached to the hot and ground wires coming from the control harness. The motor started and seeemed to run fine. I am awaiting more heat-shrink terminals and butts to replace all of them under the cowling. I stripped many wires back to the "all copper" mark. Hopefully this works. Will try and post a video tomorrow.

The switchbox was not leaking/bubbling anything. My mistake. Accidentally oversprayed with some lubricant I was using to clean some stuff.

Thanks again guys.
 
This was her earlier. This was a cold start. The weather was mild overnight. Turned key, held choke in for a second, and she started.

 
Starting a motor without water to the impeller is not a good idea.------Other than that it sounds the way it is supposed to.------------These are proven / reliable / simple to maintain motors.--------The public just does not want that kind of motor anymore.
 
I knew someone would slap my wrist for that. Only ran it for as long as that video. Still awaiting the rest of my connectors and wiring to complete it.
 
This was a cold start following a re-wiring under the cowling. I replaced all ground wires and end terminals. I also replaced all connections and replaced bad wiring. This follows rebuilding the carbs and integral fuel pumps, installing a new rectifier and new water pump, and a general cleaning. Sorry about the wait near the end. I wanted to show what the outboard was charging at, but did not have my DF/FF turned on. I also wanted to show the "click" start once the outboard is warm. My wife and neighbors will be glad when I have this in the water as they are sick of hearing it. Hey...I had to check and adjust a bunch of stuff. :). Thanks again to a bunch of great guys for all of the help, direction, and input.

 
Soon after I posted this awful video, the outboard...ONCE AGAIN...just decided to crank. Not to mention, when she would start on occasion, she sounded as if she was missing or not hitting on all cylinders. This led me to believe that the switchbox may be the FINAL issue. Surfed some other posts on troubleshooting these outboards, and came across one that showed how to check the switchbox circuitry simply by removing the BLACK/YELLOW wire. After removing, check to see if it will start. It started right up. Replaced switchbox. All is well. No issues since. Cleaning everything up and getting ready to get her wet. Finally. Once again, thanks for all the great advice, suggestions, and pointers. You guys saved me a bunch of money and learned me something as well.
 
Back
Top