Logo
FULL SITE MENU

Bf9.9d will not restart

RYCRKT

RYCRKT

New member
After running any amount of time i shut the moter off by the kill switch and troll with elec motor and when i'm done fishing the 9.9 wont restart put the boat on the trailer and it fires right up. What gives? Cant find any issues help please?
 
Need a little more info.
Did you try re-priming the fuel line?
Did you tilt the motor up, then back down and then try and re-start?
How old is the gas?
Manual or electric choke?
Electric or pull start?
Trim tilt or manual tilt?
 
Last edited:
Yes I re-primed fuel system even checked the carb bowl all was fine. It is elec & pull start I tried both. It Has manual tilt tilted motor up so it was out of the water and wouldn't fire or in water gas was filled four days ago also has marine s.b. additive happen with and without additive. When I launch it fires up no problem let warm up and go on my way stop the motor with kill switch and fish with T.M. from 1-3 hours go to start and wont tried elec and manual pull start with no luck troll back to ramp tried to start at ramp no luck. pulled out and of to the side and tied a couple of times and after about ten minutes of being on the trailer it will start. checked all vitals in the water and at the ramp all was good. does not make any sense to me that nothing is changing other than being in water. all elec has time to cool so I dont think its the cdi or anything I know I'm getting fuel by checking the bowl on carb the only thing I can think of would be the plugs but If they are bad it wouldn't start @ launch. also has manual choke
 
Last edited:
Yep, that's a strange one. The problem with outboards and "quirks" like this is that it can be difficult to duplicate the problem when you're onshore and in a position to try some troubleshooting. Kinda sucks when you have to get in the boat, drive out a ways and then get stranded in order to be able to get it to act up.

I mean, the first thing I'd want to do is pull a plug and see if it was wet or dry when it doesn't want to start. Sorta hard to do over water.

Seeing the spark on these things in daylight can be difficult to do as it is pretty faint. If you have a timing light, you could hook it up to your battery and a plug wire and verify that it pulses on while cranking. Of course, this is only a valid test for your concern when it isn't starting. You might be able to run it for a period of time on the trailer, in a trash can full of water, and see if you can get it to fail that way. Running it on rabbit ears for extended periods is messy and dangerous to the motor if you don't feed it water correctly.

It IS possible that you do have an ignition coil or CDI issue but if that is the case it would be very rare and probably hard to pin down as to which one. There is an extensive pinout resistance check for the ignition module in the maintenance manual but I've never actually performed it. Having access to other modules, I just try another one. In one instance that was a similar complaint to yours, I tried a module from a sister motor that was in the shop and the problem went away. The only thing was, I put the "bad" module on the donor motor to verify that the complaint would follow the module but, as far as I know, that motor has run flawlessly for years now. All I can figure is that by unplugging and then replugging the connector on the problem motor, I knocked off some unseen corrosion on the pins because that engine has also run reliably ever since.

So, that is something you might want to do with yours. Here's what I suggest for ensuring your ignition system:

Unplug and spray with contact cleaner the CDI male and female connections and then CAREFULLY reconnect and disconnect the plug a few times to "friction clean" the pins. BE CAREFUL! You can easily bend the pins if you misalign the plug.

Check any grounds that are bolted to the engine block and make sure that they are clean and tight.

I don't know the year of your motor but I've been replacing a few coils recently on the 2003 motors. I've noticed that if I unscrew the plug wires and look at the ends, they have a "rusty" look and I've learned to just toss the coil. Not sure if that applies in your case though.

One thing that came to mind was your kill switch. Are you sure it is completely resetting "electrically" when released? That is something that would need to be checked with an ohmmeter.

That's all I can think of for now.
 
Last edited:
thank you for the input and I will try your suggestions the motor is a 2003. As for the plugs being wet or drie they are wet from being flooded. I havent checked the kill switch with meter yet will do that first after cleaning and check all connections for any signs of corrosion hopefully that will cure the problem. Will update when I get her fixed.
 
Yeah, hopefully it's something simple like that. If you can "unscrew" the plug wires from the coil and look inside the "tower" and at the ends of the wires, see if you see anything that looks like rust. I've learned that "rusty look" usually means the coil is going bad. Some coils you can unscrew the wires and some you can't so don't try forcing anything to do this but it might be worth a peek.

Your comment about the plugs probably not being the culprit I would agree with but, then again, stranger things have led me astray. New plugs are probably among the least costly things you could replace on this motor so might be worth the effort as well.
Good luck.
 
If it is getting flooded and there is still spark, try advancing the throttle all the way when you try to start it after it fails. Do not twist the arm back and forth (that will put more fuel in). That generally helps with a flooded condition.

If it fires, be ready to bring the throttle back quickly.

If it constantly works the way I suggested above, you could have the float stuck open or more than likely, your bystarter is either unplugged, getting stuck open, or does not work.
I just had one like this.

There may be other things too, like Jimmy said. A lot depends on whether you have spark or not.

Mike
 
I checked the connectiion to the cdi all looks brand new. I did find a little build up looks like the coating they put on from the factory on all part under the cowl waxy almost on the pulser cleaned that and checked kill switch acts ok now I will be take my FLUKE meter to test all elec connection next trip out. All connection like shiny and cleanstill has like I said before the factory waxy coating on everything. I am also going to pick up 2 sets of plugs. I am going to chase the Idiot switches first kill oil etc before looking at the cdi. I will also do the timing light test too.
 
Thanks for jumpiin' in Mike. That "clear flood" suggestion is a good one and one that I missed...dang it!

He says that he has a manual choke though, not a bystarter. Isn't that kind of unusual for an electric start model? Or is it just my ignorance showing through again?
 
flooding is because I get fed up and keep going back to is it getting gas and choke it with the palm of my hand and it is a manual choke otherwise the plugs look good. like I said earlier I am going to pick up some extras I dont think it is a float problem or it would flood all the time that has been my experience with cars bikes and jetskis.
 
Last edited:
Jimmy,

I thought he said he had electric start and pull start....which would mean bystarter.



Even though the thought is that it is not the float, it still could be the bystarter. It would just idle a little faster than normal.

I still recommend, after you test everything else, to try the full throttle start. These things flood easily. Your "hand choking" would have just made it worse, if I am right.

Determining whether it is spark or fuel will determine your next actions.

Can you stop it then restart it right away?

Mike
 
Mike I am going to try any and all test you give me. The problem only exist while in the water. I have no Problem starting the motor on land It is only after running and stoping it by depressing the stop switch then it sets while I fish I have been able to restart it as soon as I stop it. I have tried emptying the bowl before re-fireing with no luck this is why I am thinking ele. and not so much fuel I did pickup new plugs and will get it out on the water later today. Again thanks for all the input and advice. I will keep you post on my findings. P.S. I did check the switch yesterday and it checked out ok but am going to take my meter with me to check when the problem happens
 
You know, we never asked you how long you've owned the motor and if it worked normally before and has just started doing this. Or, is this a recent purchase and you are just getting familiar with it?
 
Ok. I know this is getting t be like an episode of Columbo but just a couple more questions and then I'll leave you be for a while.
Tell us about the boat. Type, length, material, approximate height of the transom.
Is the motor the main or a kicker/troller?
Is the motor a short, long or xxl shaft?
Ok, that's it for now but don't leave town :)
 
type of boat is a gheenoe 13' fiberglass20" with jackplate cav plate is 3" below water it is the main motor longshaft and I do have a tinytach hooked up prop is a 9 1/2 x 8 5/8 model number is bf 9.9a 2003 by the serial number I know i stated it was a d in the post sorry about that w.o.t. is about 2900 @ 22m.p.h. good water pressure out of the peehole green llight is on oil is change as per schedule in book I do have all the record as I am the second owner.
 
had the boat out for about 2 hrs changed both plugs ran motor for about 20 min shut off by kill switch restarted and stopped again did this 4 times fished and ran T.M. for 1hr. 30min went to start and wouldn't you know it darn thing started with no problem. This is a good thing but it still bothering me I will post pics of old plugs.
 
Cancel everything I suggested...I was assuming it was a D model. Those things will not apply to the A.

I am tending to agree on problem probably being electric.

One thing to check, although probably not the problem, is the crankcase breather hose. You can see it in the bottom left picture. It is running vertically from the top port side of the engine, behind the intake manifold, then into a hole in the bottom of the inside case. Pull it off and make sure it is clear of any debris. If it was clogged, the motor will run for a while then stop. Like I said, probably not your problem, but is worth keeping it clear.

The other is the powerpack and/or the powerpack connections. I know you said that you have already checked it, but over time these connections get weak. Pull the connectors off and take a needlenose and give a slight twist to each of the pins in the power pack. When you put it back together, they should make a better connection. The connections could be affected by heat accumulated under the hood as it is sitting there.

Unfortunately, the heat could also be affecting the power pack. I have seen a few, but not many of the older ones, run for a while, then fail or irratically cut out, due to the heat build up in a failing power pack. I wouldn't just change it out...it costs a little over $100.00.

If you are thinking that the kill switch could be an issue, just follow the wire to the two bullet connectors and disconnect them. That will take them out of the circuit. If the motor starts, you will have to choke it out to stop it.

Mike

Oh, by the way, the last year Honda made this motor for the USA was 2000.
 
rycrkt said:
type of boat is a gheenoe 13' fiberglass20" with jackplate cav plate is 3" below water it is the main motor longshaft and i do have a tinytach hooked up prop is a 9 1/2 x 8 5/8 model number is bf 9.9a 2003 by the serial number i know i stated it was a d in the post sorry about that w.o.t. Is about 2900 @ 22m.p.h. Good water pressure out of the peehole green llight is on oil is change as per schedule in book i do have all the record as i am the second owner.
Click to expand...
rpm is actually 4900 wot I ONLY STATED IT WAS A 2003 IS WHEN I HAD A FRIEND THAT IS A COP RAN THE NUMBERS AND IT CAME BACK AS A 2003 I LOOKED A IBOATS AND IT SAYS A 1997
 
Last edited:
I will have it out all day tomorrow and will recheck all suggestions and post the finding. THANK YOU both Mike, & Jimmy for all the input sorry for my misinformation on the year and model you guys are great to take time out of your day's to help us minion's out on these blogs.
 
Well, sounds like the plugs did the trick. Goodonya Rice Rocket!
We don't think of anyone here as "minions". Just fellow boat lovers that are smart enough to ask for help when they need it.
I pretty much learn something every time I open up this site and that is what I am here for. I got as much as you did out of our exchange and you posting the pictures of the plugs will probably be enlightening as well.
So,
Thank you! For joining and participating in our group.
 
Had the boat out this morning. put in @ 8am and trolled from the ramp had motor lowered into water battery charge was @ 12.9v @ 10:45 battery @12.4v tried to start motor out in the lake and wouldnt start check all switches and they ohmed out fine. Trolled bake to ramp and check again all switches good still wont start now battery dropping to 11.8 v when turning over just for the hell of it shift to f and back to n tried and fired up cant fined anywhere to check the micro switch could this be the issue. thanks
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0511.jpg
    IMG_0511.jpg
    59.1 KB · Views: 86
I haven't forgotten about this or fixed they problem yet. I haven't been able to take her out again do to medical reasons I will update asap!
 
Well I had her out again fri and sat still having same problems I am at a lose does anyone have a breakdown of the motor and lower unit. I am thinking its something in the lower unit?
 
Havent been able to work on the motor issues due to my cervical fusion and spinal cord mishap during surgery but i did find some ting interesting. While i cant take the boat out i do go out and start it up once every two weeks. This past week went to start and and it turned over but wouldnt fire. I foound the wife forgot to plug the battery tender in after mowing the yard. I plugged it in and let it charge for 3 days went out and it fired up. I have the biggest interstate deep cycle battery they make. I didnt think this would matter due to the combo start elec. Or pull start. When the problem acures it wont start either way could this be a regulator problem?
 
Back
Top