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how often do you check valve clearance? BF225

J

jafo9

Member
I have an 02 BF225 that runs fine. I've done all the routine maintenance and last year I did the SB#56 repair. I bought the motor about 1.5 yrs ago so I don't know the exact service history. The manual says 200hrs or 2 years on the valve clearance. I was at the dealership yesterday talking to the service manager and he felt that if the motor was running fine, it wasn't worth the hassle to get to the valves to check the clearance. So, my question is, do any of you check the clearance as part of your routine maintenance or is this something you do only if you are "in the neighborhood"? thanks.
 
Well, once the motor is not running fine because of valve clearance problems, then you have a high probability of getting a burnt valve, or worse. So, the bottom line is to check the valve clearance ever 200 hours, as the maintenance schedule calls for.
 
My dealer told me the same thing. I can't afford a breakdown so I checked the clearances (factory set) and the exhaust valves were REALLY tight. I'll check them again in a couple hundred hours and see how they look.
 
What do you mean be REALLY tight? The exhaust valves MUST be between 0.28 and 0.32 mm clearance on a cold engine. If they are tighter than 0.28 mm, you have a good chance of burning a valve - not good at all.
 
so how long should this job take a reasonably competent shade/pollen tree mechanic? do all of the gaskets have to be replaced? do you take off the throttle body separately or keep it attached to the intake? thanks.
 
If you are going to do your own maintenance, then invest in a Helm shop manual - don't fool with the after market ones.

Checking/adjusting valves is pretty complicated on this engine. The following is abbreviated from the shop manual.

Remove silencer case
Remove throttle body and intake manifold
Disconnect two breather tubes and fuel tube
Disconnect wire and harness to the fuel cut off solenoid
Disconnect fuel lines from the fuel pump (low pressure side)
Disconnect tube from the fuel line cut out solenoid valve.
Disconnect 3P connector from each ignition coil and remove the main wire harness
Remove plugs & coils
Rremove the cylinder head covers
Remove timing belt covers
Manually turn crankshaft pulley clockwise to align No. 1 cylinder to TDC marks on both the sides of the timing belt driven pulleys with the marks on the timing belt back covers.

Intake vale - between 0.20 and 0.24
Exhaust valve - between 0.28 and 0.32 mm.

If adjustment is needed, it's the typical procedure - loosen the lock nut and adjust. Check & recheck each adjustment. Torque on the lock nut is 14 ft lbs.

Repeat with No 4, then 2, 5, 3, 6. Each cylinder TDC position is marked on the crank shaft pulley.

While you are in there, check the check the timing belt for wear and tension. Under 4.4 ft lbs of pressure, deflaction should be between 8.8 and 9.7 mm If off, adjust the tensioner pulley.
 
Yes, the Helm shop manual is the official manual, and will contain all the updates and modifications. Folks on this thread have generally not had good results with the Seloc manual when it comes to Hondas. The Helm manual will cost you about $116, but it is well worth it. In my experience it has paid for itself many times over in allowing me to do my own maintenance and repairs. The diagnostic sections in the Helm manual are excellent.
 
I second the Helm manual. Must have if you are doing your own work. chawk man, I have twins so between the two motors, 2 had less that .10mm and all were under .18mm This was their first adjustment. Definately somthing to keep an eye on.
 
WOW - that is REALLY tight. Hope the engine was cold when you checked. Of course, by the time you disassemble all the stuff it takes to get to the valves, it definitely should be cold. Bet you get a few more horses on the top end, now. Also, hope you checked the tension/deflection on the timing belts while you were in there.
 
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