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Manual start Mariner 40HP Charging cables?

M

monkeh

New member
Hi, I Have a manual start Mariner 40, Im new to the boating world and this is my first larger boat. My first boat was a tender and I used a 2hp seagull to get the bug! I bought the boat last year and basically enjoyed its use and just generally getting the feel of it on the river, but this year, I have plans to modify the basic layout, Christmas has brought me a fishfinder, I have a modified UHF ham radio, (I am intermediate licenced) and I want to fit some Lights, horns and a bilge pump. Problem being is my car battery probably wont take them all at once!
Have to admit this engine is quite something, Its a hell of a lot quicker than my dads Tohatsu 60, Maybe something to do with weight. He doesnt like it that I can get to 25kts quicker than him!
Is there a charging circuit on the engine? All I can provide is a picture of the engine. With cover. But I have found 1 or 2 wires inside the engine cover terminating at crimp connectors, If my memory served me correctly, One is a green connector and one is black. Are these the 'exciter' connectors if this engine had an alternator?
This looks like my engine but its not
side-mariner.jpg

inside-clean.jpg

Naturally the cables I found were on the opposite side of the pictures.


Thanks
 
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If that motor has a charging circuit there will be 2 yellow wires coming from the stator under the flywheel. One of them may have a gray stripe on it and they will both be terminated on a rectifier.
 
Thanks Bill, I take it that the voltage will be +-13 Volts? Will that be enough to just tag straight onto the battery?
 
I have 88 40hp mariner and was told the 2 green wires coming from the stator was the charging circuit on my motor but im not sure if yours is the same.
 
Im not sure of the year of the engine, Where is the serial number on this anyway? The previous owner had scored his own initials on the engine in places. Ask me about the Seagull and Ill probably tell you! But as for this engine, I am just going off knowledge from the previous owner and my own common knowledge of cars. Ill make sure I take my multimeter with me when I venture to 'springify' it. I would like it if it did have a charging circuit, the converted HAM produces 50w not the standard 25, along with a stereo and pump. With the fishfinder and a wreckfinder/Magnetometer on tow, I think I might have to tag another battery on parallel.
 
It may or may not have a "charging coil" under the flywheel. If it was an original rope start engine, it probably won't have. However, used parts are fairly cheap if you don't have one and want to fit it.
The wiring will be on the other side of the engine, towards the rear, coming out from under the flywheel. There will be wiring running to the switch box.
This is a photo of my Mariner 60 twin, the wiring is fundamentally the same. See the blue sheathed wire bundle coming from under flywheel? Most of the wiring goes to the switchbox, where it provides power to run the electronics in there and an ignition signal for firing the coils. You can see the two green wires thst come out of the blue sheath and bypass the box, they are your charging wires. It will be obvious if they are there or not.
Marineroutboard.jpg
 
i have the same problem , i am new to boating but would like to power a few simple lights and a bilge pump , and was wondering if my 1994 mariner 40hp pull start, nearly the same as the one above but a slighty differant cowell , i have not got the chance to check has it got a charging circuit as i forgot to bring a multi meter today when i went down to it , if it does not have a charging coil is it a big job to install one to this motor , another question i have is who makes my motor , so sites say its a mariner yamaha , others say mercury mariner , very confused about this , the complete serial on the plat is 40m 6E9 S 019694 , DOES THIS MEAN anything to anyone , and is there anyone out ther can help me get a manual for this , thanks for the help

first time boater noel
 
Hi Noel,
I like the "Shakey",lovely colour,what length is she? Need a few parts:D:D:D I have one hull up waiting for paint,white. Back to your query,you have a 1994 short shaft 40HP manual start built by Yamaha for Mercury,an exact copy of Yamaha's own older 40FE,painted in the Mariner colours and sold mainly 0n Europe,Asia and the Southern hemisphere.
You can get a manual here http://www.marineengine.com/manuals/seloc/mariner.html Mariner 1&2 cyl
 
thanks a mill "havent a clue " found a manual there and one been sent next week :) as for the shakey , im pretty happy with it for my first boat , love the shape of them , found it in ireland and shipped it here to sweden as the same boat over here costs way to much , so if ya need a hand selling it and making a nice little profit you know where to send it , mine is only the 14foot but she rides well in the water , but if the water is choppy she can be a little too small for it , it bounces hard of the waves , im delighted with the colour its a little unique , she stands out in the harbour , it has a few little scratches and a fow little things i want to change but notting major i hope , the winters are long here so it will give me a little project to keep the mind from going cold with all the snow they get here :) actually you might be able to help me out again , i went down today to the boat to check had i a fly wheel , and multimeter in hand to check had i voltage , lucky enough for a pull start it had , now i would like to add a few lights and a bilge pump , and maybe if santa is good to me ( or drop enough enough hints to the other half) a radio , how do i go about this ?????? what do i need , and whats the best way to do this , how many battery's ? , well thats about if ya could put up a few pics of the shakey , just so i can be jealous ;) and maybe get a few ideas from yours .boat1.jpg036.jpg
 
I hope Santa's good to ya.One battery will be plenty,make sure it is a marine battery.Is there a stator under the flywheel,quick check,can you see two green wires coming from under the flywheel to a square box,the rectifier,that's the charging system.You will need this if you want to install a tach. Have a look at the photo of the 60HP a couple of posts up.
If you need an easy way out,strap in a battery,take a + & - wire to the dash,install the lights etc. you want and every so often lift the battery out and charge indoors.
http://people.dsv.su.se/~klas/Boats/SuperVSportsman/Sportsman3/sportsman3.html Have a look at these .In Norway I think.And mine isn't going to make you jealous, yet.DSC00457.JPGIMG_0309 copy.jpgP4010178.jpg That's "NO KIT " in the middle.That's the way she landed in my back yard last year.I have pics of her waiting for paint must have put them in a different folder.Must get organized:D I want her to look like the lady in the link that I posted,and I'm talking about the boat.
 
...take a + & - wire to the dash,...
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I bet there is a small fuse panel under the dash for the ign. switch, lights and gauges. If there is enough spare amps (note the total amps for the panel cannot be exceeded) use the empty slots. Otherwise, run a pair of 12 ga. marine wires (purple & black) from the battery to the dash. Install a 20 amp in-line fuse no farther than 12" from the battery; use purple for the positive wire and black as ground. The reason for the fuse at the battery is to keep from starting a fire if the new wires start to cook/overheat if the fuse panel is overloaded or there is a direct short in one of the devices attached to the circuit.

Use a bayonet fuse w/a flip lid holder to seal out moisture. On the dash end of the wires attach them to a 4-5 bayonet fuse panel secured up high under the dash. The total amperage for this fuse panel is 18 amps. Don't go over the 18 amp limit. Most electronics will only require 2-3 amps each. Use LED auxilliary lighting and each will only need 1-2 amps for several lights. You can change all of the incandescent lights on the boat to LEDs including the gauge lamps for a few dollars and take the drain off the battery and alternator during night use.

If you are only using one battery spend the money on a quality combo. marine start/deep cycle battery of at least 500 CCA capacity. A 650 CCA would give you some extra power when needed. If you trailer the boat install a 5 amp marine battery charger and attach it to the battery so you don't have to break your back pulling it in/out for a recharge. JMO
 
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Whoops! I thought you had an elec. start engine. Just get a 450-500 CCA deep cyle battery for your electric power source. BTW, nice boats.
 
guyjg said:
Whoops! I thought you had an elec. start engine. Just get a 450-500 CCA deep cyle battery for your electric power source. BTW, nice boats.
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yep, get a deep cycle, either on board charger or charge when you get hone with an auto. float type charger.
 
hey guys , thanks for the great advice , im back again looking for more now :) went to the boat to check had i 12v coming from the charging circuit , and found the two green wires going into the rectofier with 12vdc , i have a tachometer , voltmeter , and tempmeter all mounted in the dash that i would like to connect up , i found a circuit diagram on line that i will upload , it showes all the connections except where to get power to my instrements , , , now il tell you where i am at , i understand i have a charging circuit 12v dc , do i just connect it directly to the battery ? ??????? and where do i connect the sensor wires from the tach to , are they powered directly from the motor ? and if so from where ? this is the circuit diagram i found which most suits what im trying to do InstrumentPanelWiring.jpg
 
What kind of wiring loom,if any,on the engine and from the engine to the dash? A wire is attached to the rectifier,either of the green wires.It is then run to the dash.Mercury and most other manufactures use gray,the marine colour code,Yamaha used green.The wire is connected to the sig on the back of the tach.
You'll need to bring a + and - from the battery to the dash,to a fused busbar and I see that guyjg has given a very good account a couple of posts up.
The reason he says purple is that is the marine colour code for the 12V loop for the dash/instrument illumination.
Is there a temp sensor on the engine? Standing,looking at the plugs,top right with two wires,pink and black,I think!!!! Yamaha again. Usually the wire from the temp is tan. http://www.glen-l.com/weblettr/webletters-5/wl44-wiring.html
 
Do you see two RED wires coming out of the rectifier? If you had electric start they would connect to the starter solenoid. Since there is no starter there might be a terminal block on the side of the motor where 12 volt connections are or can be made. There would also be one heavy gauge RED wire going from the solenoid into the wire harness to the battery. From the battery there will be a purple wire going to the dash fuse box. Take a picture of the side of the engine showing the wires. You should be able to connect existing wires to a battery to get the dash to power up. But first look for the wire harness at the stern w/terminals for a battery and the wires on the engine for the starter solenoid connection. Look under the dash for the fuse panel.
 
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I reread this entire thread and see that it has multiple persons wanting the same thing. I'm here to help but there should not be anyone hijacking another person's thread. It causes confusion and disemination of the wrong information.

Noel: please take several pics. of the wiring on you engine, under the dash fuse panel--It will be there and pics. of the wire harness connectors in the transom area that connect to a battery.

monkeh: what's your status?

kevan: what's you status?
 
the first few pictures are of the motor lume , iv found the two green cables coming from the charging circuit , do i connect my tachometer to this ? and do i also connect the battery to these ? this boat has no wiring done at the moment , i just want to have it all right in my head before i attempt it , the instriments in the panel are old and i will change them to new ones but the tacho seems to be good so gona keep that , i have done a circuit scetch , could you have a little look and tell me is it ok so far , and maybe some one can tell me where the last few connections can be made off
 
...this boat has no wiring done at the moment...
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Nice fella stripped the wiring out of the boat?

The output of the rectifier connects to the battery -/+ terminals. Boat's -/+ power wires connect to the battery. For the power wires from the battery to the dash fuse block use 10 gauge wiring. The main power fuse at the battery can be a 30 amp w/10 ga. wiring which allows use of a larger fuse panel--about 10 fuses. NOTE: The total amp draw of all items connected cannot exceed 28 amps. Don't forget a main power switch on the dash connected between the fuse at the battery and the fuse panel. For the bilge pump I prefer to use a resettable "push to reset" breaker installed in the dash and wired before the switch. Find the gray wire on the engine that has an unused bullet end connector; that should be the tach. wire. As old as the tach is it may not be very accurate. How are you going to use the "engine kill switch"?
 
thanks a mill again for information , its starting to fall into place in the head , think you are right with tach , best change it , as for the main kill switch to the motor , i was going to keep this seperate , and have a seperate main switch for all electrics , complete with seperate switches for lights , bilge , and radio , is this ok to do ? the reason i wanted to do this is if i turn off boat motor , i still have a bypass switch to use light ,etc etc . is this ok to do ? i am going too the boat shop wedensday evening to get the gear i need , so going to start wiring next thurs when boat out of water , so im sure its not the last you have heard from me :) just want to say thanks a mill for all your help up to now
first time boat'r noel sweden
 
aha just after figuring out what you mean now , is it best to take power to the instriments from the motor direct , instead of taking power from the battery to power the instriments ,
 
The tach signal is all that need come from the engine...there is a specific wire there for it. Everything else in the boat should be powered from the battery. The voltmeter can get its 12 volt signal from the fuse panel. All of the wiring for the dash instruments and bilge pump need 16 ga. wire.
 
As this is a Yamaha built Mariner the tach wire is going to be green, up around the rectifier.On Merc Mariners it would be gray.For some reason Yamaha didn't conform to the usual marine colour codes at that time,I'm not sure if they do yet
 
Thanks haventclue...I've never touched a Yamaha. It would be so much easier to just buy a new marine harness for the engine to boat. I just can't remember where I saw them on the web.

On a side note I am a part time geneologist...6 yrs. of searching U.S. censuses and immigration records. Just found census records from 1860 with my Great-Great-Grandparents name--McConn. They came to the U.S.A. from somewhere in Ireland and settled in southwest Ohio in 1858. I will have to visit the Emerald Isle in the future when I get more information about them.
 
Only reason I got the Yamaha was to hang on "No-Kit" as when I restore the Shakespeare I am going to put my beautiful 1969 Merc800,obsession,some on this forum have been known to call her,on the "Shakey" as they are of the same era.So I got two Yamaha's rebuilding one and sent the other to the recyclers after a couple of months of torture.


On your genealogy,I'm going to hazard a guess and say head towards the northern end of Ireland and look for McCann,I can just hear a big northern accent getting off the boat and when asked his name saying what sounded like "McConn":D
 
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