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Steering - 1989 Johnson 110HP 2 Stroke

What guages should i have to ensure safe and efficient operation of my motor (1989 110hp johnson 2T) ?

i need to know these so i can start mapping out a hole profile in my new helm area - whichever way i choose.

Byte
 
The No1 is a rev counter.
A trim instrument is 'nice to have', but a water pressure instrument might be more useful.
Check that your alarm system is working properly by testing horn, sensor/switches!!
 
Byte said:
thanks - what is this water pressure instrument called and where is actually measuring?

Byte
Click to expand...
It is called:
Water pressure instrument.
It is measuring the waterpump pressure.
Simply install a plastic T on the pee hose, pull one hose to the instrument.
It makes you keep a check on the impeller, might tell you if thermostat valves are not functioning properly etc. Low water pressure on these engines is the main reason for regulators to fail as they loose the water cooling if block is not completely filled.
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thanks haffiman.

Collector inspector - what is your business and advise why you want to know who this transporter is?

Byte
 
Haffiman - the dealer cannot match an exact same length of my steering cable and so i have ordered a teleflex cable around 200mm longer, instead of shorter.

Your thoughts on this?

Byte.
 
haffiman37 said:
Where to start?
Get a drill, drill some 3-4mm holes in the circular nut holding the helm to the bezel, crack the nut and the bezel will fall inside!
Click to expand...

Hi Haffiman.

I have now acquired a brand new steering kit and ready to operate.

WRT your above comment, I need to be sure I am drilling the right nut. The attached photos are very hazy and I apologize, but lighting and camera not too flash (no pun intended). Is the nut the one shown inside this helm on these photos? It is steel and has 2 x slots at 180 degrees.

Cameron
 

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Well.

I have tried to remove this nut cannot.

It is very difficult to drill holes in this nut becuase of clearance and hardness.

I was about to drill 1 and maybe half of another.

I then tried to wack it out with a cold chisel/hammer - it is mangled a bit but but still cannot remove it.

Help

Cameron
 
That is the nut!
I never said it was easy to drill out.
Another option is to take a grinder and cut away the bezel, as you have a new one in the kit.
Just remember to cover glass fiber area as flying sparks will make stains and burn marks!!
 
job done - thanks for help.

Now, time to play and install the new kit on the new helm in the new location.,....

Byte
 
hi.

i am liaising with a local vdo rep and during my quest to enquire about new gauges to suit my 1989 johnson 110hp 2t motor:

I a wanting a temp gauge, water pressure gauge, trim/tilt and tacho.

he has asked me to verify a few things:

"Do you want electrical or mechanical temp?"

"Which water pressure is appropriate - 15psi or 30psi?"

"Trim/Tilt - what sensor are you using?"

i did not know how to answer these questions and kindly ask for your assistance with these questions...

Help?

Cameron
 
thanks for link and info.

would mechanical temp have any advantages over the elctrical?

woudl the mechanical temp require tapping into the water jacket - and if so where woudl the sender fit?

and wouldn't the 30psi water pressure guage be harder to read (with the smaller increments?)

what does a trim sensor look like?

Cameron
 
Sorry to revise an oldish thread.

But the steering issues are still persisting with stiff steering.

Also, steering does not fully complete a full cycle (to starboard) but does full turn to port side.

I have finally had a chance to re-install a new helm panel, and hence new teleflex help panel kit including new cable.

Out of desperation and bought a pump gun, and pumped the 2 nipples full of grease.

After 5 mins of constant turning, it seems to be a little better, but still retains that 'heavy' feeling...

The rubber sleeve that I have attached a picture of appears worn on the inside and thinking of replacing it.

Would this sleeve impact on the smoothness of steering?

Also, I am unable to locate a part number for this sleeve. Can you help and provide this part number?

Also, there is lock pin that I am supposed to insert back into the helm (where the cable screws into). Where do I insert this pin?

Help me lighten up this steering.


Cameron
 

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Do you think your problem lies in the tilt pin of the motor bracket?
If yes you can eliminate it.
My engine was originally set up for "Tilt Pin Mechanical Steering" "Through the Pivot".
I changed it to go directly to the motor. You will need a transom bracket with a ball joint.
 
wow - interesting.

I had free flowing movement before it was transported last year.

Now, I do not know what to make of this restricted movement.

The motor stops turning just after center rotating towards portside.

What/where is the tilt pin of the motor bracket?

I do not know if my engine was originally set up for "Tilt Pin Mechanical Steering" "Through the Pivot".

Cameron
 
Just disconnected the steering arm from the engine.

I assume you are referring to the CONNECTOR ROD ASSY., Stainless steel (as per Evinrude parts Catalogue)?

The engine turns so smooth in the full range! - Heaven!

Cameron
 
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Then test the cable.
Put it 'center'.
If hooking back the steering arm again, engine should be center as well.
If not, you have a cable problem.
 
Thanks.

How do i put the cable in 'center'?

I notice the long stainless steel rod at end of the cable does not fully extend out, as the engine stops at just past center on it's way to portside.

How should the steering wheel feel at the helm when steering arm is not connected - in terms of rotational ease, etc?

I linked the steering arm back again to cable with the engine in center. No change.

So, I have a cable problem.

Those 2 large nuts on the portside of the cable - one on the steering cable tube and the other on the cable - how much should they be rotated?

Any potential relationship between these 2 nuts and my cable problems?







Cameron
 
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The steering wheel should be 'fingertip' light.
Turn the wheel full port - then full stb and count revolutions (normally 3,5 turn).
Then back off half the turns. Then align the steering arm with the engine.
Engine should be straight.
 
The steering wheel can be turned by 2 fingers but it does take a bit of effort and i would say it is not light - probably 'medium to a bit heavy'...

I measured the amount of revs of wheel for full cycle - around 2,3/4 turns.

I halved that figure and attempted to link up the steering arm with the cable in the center position, but the steering arm was way out and I could not link it.

There was no way I could ensure center of motor at the same time as center of cable as the steering arm was not able to coincide at the same distance/intersecting point.

Those 2 large nuts on the portside of the cable - one on the steering cable tube and the other on the cable - how much should they be rotated?

Any potential relationship between these 2 nuts and my cable problems?

Also, the steering cable tube is about 3.5" showing at the port side - is this normal?

Cameron
 
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The 'eye' of the cable on port side should be almost to the rubber seal on your pick when cable is all the way 'in'. The engine steering stop on the swivel bracket should be the end-stop.
Turn the engine to stop - retract the cable all the way, the arm should align with the inner hole of the engine steering arm.
 
I can confirm the eye of the cable is almost to the rubber seal on my pick when the cable is all the way 'in'.

I do not know if the engine steering stop on the swivel bracket is the end-stop. i do not know what check or how to check.

Does 2, 3/4 turns for full turn sound right?

Those 2 large nuts on the portside of the cable - one on the steering cable tube and the other on the cable - how much should they be rotated?

Any potential relationship between these 2 nuts and my cable problems?

The steering cable tube is about 3.5" showing at the port side - is this normal?

The rubber sleeve appears worn on the inside and thinking of replacing it.

Would this sleeve impact on the smoothness of steering?

I am unable to locate a part number for this sleeve. Can you help and provide this part number?

There is lock pin that I am supposed to insert back into the helm (where the cable screws into). Where do I insert this pin?
 
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The rubber on the exit side (port) is just to keep grease inside and water outside, will not affect the friction.
Did you replace the bent cable or is it the 'original'?
Pull it out of the engine, keep it attached to the helm and test that it runs with almost no friction. If it gets harder and harder as you 'push' it out, replace it.
The nuts holding the tilt tube on engine should be tightened 'to no' play of the tube.
The nut on the cable holding it to the tilt tube, should be tight and no play/movement of the outer part of the cable.
Not sure about the 'pin' in the helm you are referring to, there are different types of locking mechanism of the cable in the helm. Some has a bolt going through where cable enters, locking the outer sleeve of the cable from being pushed out. (goes through the groove of the cable end piece). Some has a spring-loaded pin popping into the grove. Need type and perhaps a pick to see which type you have.
 
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