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1959 Fisherman problems.....(after taking time off)

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polefroggy

Contributing Member
Hey guys, I'm finally back! If you remember, I left with low compression (80 on top, 60 on bottom). Got back from vacation and tore apart powerhead. Actually looked pretty good. Cleaned it all up, cleaned up exhaust and replaced gaskets. Cleaned cylinder heads, pistons and replaced piston rings. Put the motor back together and still have 80 psi on top and 60 psi on bottom. I do have excellent spark. Gonna try to start her up tomorrow or Wed....if she doesn't start...what next? Thinking of buying powerhead off Ebay....Ideas? Here is a complete list of all I have done with this puppy and want so much for it to start:
Cleaned Exhaust & Replaced Gaskets
Cleaned Inner Exhaust Cover
New Piston Rings
New Head Gasket
Cleaned Pistons
Cleaned Cylinders
New Coils
New Condensors
New Plug Wires
New Plugs
New Points
Rebuilt Carb
New Thermostat
New PowerHead to Exhaust Tube Gasket
New LeafPlate to CrankCase Gasket
Synced Motor
Adjusted Timing Advance Base
Rebuilt Fuel Filter
Replaced all hoses

Thanks for all your support, just don't know if I should go for the powerhead on Ebay if she doesn't start......
 
I don't see any reason why it should't start. I had a 1955 5.5 that was running on one cylinder,but it still started. Before you do anything else, I would maybe take it somewhere. I read you did the fuel pump conversion. Are you sure you closed that one port off completely?
 
Question: is there supposed to be grease between the armature plate and armature plate support? I lost all spark today and am wondering if that could be a reason.
 
just recently change points and condensers in my 57 evinrude 7.5 and the only grease should be what came with the points. put a little grease on the pole that the points go on and a little on the cam lobe. If you don't have any you can go to an auto parts store or radio shack. That is a type of dielectric grease. Good luck.
 
Compression Question: as you all know I recently rebuilt this puppy. I still have 80psi in the upper and 60psi in the lower. Is that OK? If not, I'm looking at getting another PowerHead soon..... Thanx for the help
 
The grease on the armature plate needs to be there and -CERTAINLY IS NOT THE PROBLEM !-------------------Points need to be absolutely clean.
 
When you had the mtr apart did you check the piston ring end gap in the cyl before installing on piston ? Did you mike the cyl to make sure it was within proper specs ?
 
Yepper, did all the checks......today I cleaned up and checked my ignition system....I have excellent spark and hope to tank the motor sometime soon.....
 
Interesting this as I am just about to finish a CD15, like exactly as you have done, I see no reason for yours not to start. At this stage do not worry about the difference in comps as both values will run everything else being attended to.

Have you put some raw fuel in the plug holes and spun it over yet?

ie, You have fuel in the carb?

Um..............you havnt got the spark plug leeds crossed have you? If you have it should pop and carry on like a Australian Riptide with dodgy Amal if petrol is getting in there.

Different comps later, just get it running for now.

EDIT: If you have done a pump conversion, have you got the inlet and outlet to the pump the correct way around?

B
 
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UPDATE: old powerhead had a crack in it...got a new used one yesterday, tore it down, soaked it, cleaned it all up. Today I'm going to put new rings on the pistons and put the powerhead and entire motor back together. Hopefully, I will have the to try and start her up!!!

Question 1: My throttle does not have a 'start,slow,fast,idle' label on it....when I prep to start the motor how far open should the throttle be?
Question 2: I've seen so many things on initial starts...should I spray Starter Fluid in the cylinder holes, should I put some fuel in the cylinder holes?
Question 3: As you already know I converted from dual line fuel system to single line with a pump. Should the fuel filter go before or after the pump? Does it make a difference?

Looking forward to your responses and help...... Thanx so much guys!!!! Off to the powerhead now.
 
On assembly U use liberal amounts of oil.----------------------Then when you try and start, you pump fuel into the carburetor using the manual pump ( primer ball )----------------then use choke to start.----------You give it some throttle for start.--------------Obviously the indicator is missing near the throttle grip, not hard to find one.
 
FINALLY!!! After 2 months of hard work I got her started!!! On 1st attempt she started and purred like a kitten, I shut her down after about 10 seconds. Tried a 2nd time and no go, so I followed flooding instructions and she started, then shut down after about 2 seconds. Gonna wait a few and try again. Got a feeling it's just gonna take a little time to figure this out seeing as I've never owned an OB before....I whole-heartedly give my thankx to all who have helped out over the past 2 months. Anymore pointers, especially on how to work out this initial start-up test would definitely be welcomed.

***Dilemma: Flooding instructions say to close hi and low speed needles and pull rope several times to run all the gas thru then to try starting under warm start rules ****I don't know what they are... I went back out, set my needles for the initial tank test settings, pulled choke, gave a little throttle, and pulled the rope....she started but immediately died....I did this closing and opening the needles several times with same results....On first pull of rope she starts but immediately dies.

What am I doing wrong?????

Thanx again!!!!!
 
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Damn the luck!!! Got her running good, shifted into forward to begin adjustments and noticed water pouring out of lower half of cylinder head!!!!! Friggin' brand new head gasket too...and I can guarantee if anything is warped it ain't by much...I checked that out when I cleaned up the head. So now I have a running motor and have to order a new gasket, don't think there is anyone locally who sells 'em......
 
Motor 1.jpgMotor 3.jpgMotor 2.jpgRACERONE: I actually saw the water coming out from between the cylinder head and the crankcase before I shut her down. That's for sure guy. Question for ya: should I use any kind of sealant with the new head gasket?
 
There is no need to use a sealant on a new headgasket.--------------------Did you check the head for being flat ?? -----They are always warped.-----------Use a piece of glass and emery paper or valve grinding compound to make it like new again.-------Those sparkplug wires to not appear to be routed like they were from the factory.
 
The plug wires will move with the coil plate as you throttle up and down. They may start rubbing against the flywheel and rub through.
 
2 Questions:
#1. How do I set up the plug wires so they won't rub?
#2. Is it ok for the exhaust port to be below the water level? (ie. when tank testing the motor)
 
Run the wires under the throttle control link and there should be a bracket mounted to either the head or the exhaust cover that they pass through. http://www.marineengine.com/parts/v...evinrude-johnson/ITEM_2974/ITEM_297400001.htm see parts 9, 10 and 11 on page 6. Should come out something like this:QD0011.jpgQD0015.jpg Leave enough slack to allow the wires to move with the stator plate or you will rip the ends off. As for the exhaust port you don't need that much water but it won't hurt anything as not using enough water would. Minimum would be just above the two covers where the mid-tower meets the lower unit.
 
MNOBFAN: do you mean run the plug wires between the throttle control link and the armature plate? or directly under the throttle control link? if directly under the throttle control link, how do I keep the wires there? Sorry for my lack of know how on this one....
 
UPDATE!!! Got her runnin' today.... finally.... after all the work I put into her.... ran her in a tank for about 15 minutes trying to tune her up but she started overheating and so did I (outside temp was 85 and I was in the sun). Will work on tuning her more tomorrow, I hope..... Good thing.... head gasket didn't blow this time!
 
Gas tank keeps expanding!!!! I've got a 6 gallon plastic gas tank and it expands something awful from the pressure build up. Is that normal? Is there anything I can do to make it expand less? Seriously, sometimes it looks like it's gonna expand so much it's gonna explode! Thanx all for your help!!!!!!
 
well you see that little knob on your gas cap? That needs to be unscrewed to relieve the pressure. That also needs to be open when the motor is running. That is a vent screw. If you've never opened that vent screw,that could have been your problem the whole time. You said it was overheating? Is water coming out of the back? Is the impeller working?
 
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