BF130 Trim release screw frozen" help!"

Please help, The trim and tilt on my 2000 BF 130hp started acting funny at the end of last season. First the switch on the motor would only work in the up mode and I could only lower it from the consol. Then the trim would only work from the consol. Now the trim will not work with either button. The motor is stuck down. Well, I tested the solinoids and they click with both switches and there is 12v going to the trim motor. I checked the grounds and they're fine so I believe the trim motor is shot. A previous owner stripped the manual release screw from the pump and I am unable to release it to raise the motor. Does anyone have any advise for me as to raising the motor beacuse the only way to change the trim motor is with the motor raised?

I have had to remove these by drilling into them and using an easy-out. If you drill it and use an easy-out you will get it out. After you install the new valve/screw, just exercise the screw at least twice a year so this does not happen again.

The drain screw is right next to the tilt release screw. Since you intend to work on it anyway, why not just drain the fluid? With the hydraulic fluid out, you should be able to lift the motor and prop it up with the mechanical lock tab.
I'm not sure if you have room, but if there is, I would try and cut a new slot with a Dremel wheel and use an impact driver to free up that pesky tilt screw for replacement.
Good luck.

I'm not see the drain screw, maybe because the motor is all of the way down. If the easyout doesn't work, can i carefully drill through the release screw untill it hit fluid and then would the motor manually release?

I would only drill in enough for the easy-out to get a good bite. The easy-out will get it out.

Item 18 in the parts blow up link below should be the drain. You can't see it or get to it? Then I would agree with Docksidemarineservices and go with the easy out. That should work.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H...01 TO BZBH-1199999/POWER TRIM-TILT/parts.html

And, if it doesn't...drill baby drill!

An e-z out tip: if you use a left hand twist drill on a reversible drill motor to drill for your e-z out, many times the drill will get a bite and spin the fastener out as you drill.

Well, No access to drain. As I drilled into it to prepare for an easy out I went a little deep and was able to release enough pressure to raise the motor by hand, however when I attempted to remove the valve screw with an easy out, the easy out broke off inside the screw (WTF!!!). I then took the entire assembly off and have it in my shop and now am pondering my next move. The good news is I can easily replace the motor but am screwed with the pump which costs almost $800. Any ideas?

I was thinking that you were describing a non functioning motor. Do you think the pump is bad? It is usually the motor that shoots craps and the pump is still good. I've done a few of them on smaller motors (20 D's) and the pumps are always good. The motors fail due to water intrusion through the seal where the wires enter the housing. I usually just replace the field housing (Honda calls it a yoke) and the brush assembly (Honda calls it a bracket) with a new seal and oring. I've only had to replace one armature. The hardest part about the job is bleeding all the air out of the pump. It takes forever and must be done off the frame. I rigged up a harness to power the motor up and down to work all the air out.

You could weld a nut to the EZ out stub to get the manual valve out of the housing and just buy a new valve. Or, I've had luck using a punch and hammer on the edges of screw heads like that and slowly "walk" it out. Takes a lot of patience and holding your tongue just right.

How big was the drill and easy out that you used? They usually come out with a 3/16 drill and a small easy out.

I have a salt water bf130 I was working on for my deckboat. I wasn't working on the trim screw (mine is frozen too). But i worked on the water jacket and broke several of the small bolts off (like 4! and I basically did the same thing broke an ez out off in one of them!). I was about to give in and just take it to a shop when I ran across a post somewhere that suggested using a dremel with a tungsten carbide bit to get at an ezout.

Let me tell you ...it took a bit of time and plenty of patience and a steady hand on the hardened ez out, But i drilled that and the other broken ones off with that! The ones with just the broken bolts came out in not much time at all (< 30m each i'd say) I wouldn't consider an ez out on anything but a large bolt from now on.

For the bolts, i used a punch, then a small cobalt bit (very small can't remember size), i drilled it through iirc correctly and went up a size as long as it was centered, then i ground it out as close to threads as I could, if the hole wasn't centered i just sat there grinding the whole thing out. Hitting it with a bit everyonce in awhile to give it an edge to grab. Next I chased them with a tap and boom worked like a charm, didn't even need to tap a larger size.

For the hardened bit i just kept at it, hit it with a punch, cobalt bit, would dremel some (i pressed and moved the dremel around here and there so it would grab), then i'd hit it with a bit again when it seemed the carbide bit wasn't grabbing. Eventually got the ez out out, dremeled what was left of the bolt, then chased it with a tap.

The tungsten carbide bit i think was around 10 bucks and man that thing is freakin awesome, it's the *only* time i ever found something useful for that dremel that's been sitting here for years.

Now my ezouts were cheap harbor freight so not sure how much that had to do with it...but they were pretty dang tough a cobalt bit would only notch it a bit, enough to create an edge to hit it with the dremel and slowly grind it out.

Also forgot...have to keep it oiled, i just used whatever i had around pbblaster to lube the bits.

This is the style bit i used with the rounded end

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/AttachmentsAndAccessories/Pages/AttachmentsDetail.aspx?pid=9910

home depot had them, but it'll grind that ez out with a bit of time, eventually you'll be able to but a cobalt bit in there and drill it out more until it starts breaking up.
You just want to be careful not to grind the threads. Also if you decide to chase it (i'm not sure how that trim screw works), make sure it's cleaned out and oiled (used my compressor, and pbblaster again)
for the water jacket bolts.