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Volvo Penta AQ280 DP Outdrive removal

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nicholas0

New member
Hey Guys, i need some advice on the removal of my outdrive. I have done many Mercs, with alphas and Stringers. But this will be my first Volvo. The boat is a 28.6 trophy bayliner. Year is an 86. I am going to do the bellows this year to save time and money. I am a diesel equipment mechanic, but i just wanted some insight on the project. The ins and outs of the removal, I will apreciate the help guys! Thanks in advance. Nick, and as always tight lines.
 
Niick, I'm sure the pros will be along shortly and the removal steps are pretty well documented. I'd like to mention some of the inspections and tests that should be performed prior to disassembly.

Like any other gearbox, checking the oil as it's drained will give you an idea if there is water present or any other foreign material.

After draining, it's a good idea to do a pressure test to find any leaks before you tear things apart. That way, you'll have a good idea of seals and o-rings needing replacement.

I'll let the pros handle the rest, just waned to point out a few things I've discovered in the last couple of years.
 
Glad that you found it useful.
I have tried to cover most all there, but don't be surprised if there is something that I may have forgotten to mention.

Post back with any questions..... I'll update the BOC page as needed!

Rick
 
Well, the URL has become corupted some how. I sent an email to one of the moderators, he confirmed that it is no longer good. I'll have to see if I can find the thread that was linked to.

Meanwhile, try this:
Note that most all AQ series Volvo Penta female threads are thread inserts.... much like a Heli-coil. We don't want to risk damaging any, or breaking a fastner off..... especially if the threads are saturated with corrosion. I find that penetrating oils just don't cut the mustard on many of these...... at least not in the amount of time that we have to give them.
Heat is your friend on these thread inserts. I use a small hand held Mapp Gas or Propane torch to apply heat to the aluminum housing that holds the thread inserts. A little bit of heat expands things, and helps in the removal of the bolts. It won't even harm the OEM paint.
If not, we risk breaking a bolt off, or ruining the threads.

Removing helmet pin and transmission:
Single pin is easy. Just insert the correct hex key wrench, and remove.
The double bolt pins can be stubborn. These will usually be fitted with two 1/4" NC jack threads.
Remove the two 3/8" cap screws, blow the jack threads clean, spray with a some type of lube into each.
Then use two grade #8 - 1/4" NC bolts (need plenty of thread length) and jack the pin from the transmission collar.
This frees up the helmet.
Raise helmet up and out of your way.
Remove the two 3/8" transmission mounting nuts, and the two 3/8" cap screws.
Loosen bellows clamp, and carefully peel back the bellows from the collar.
The transmission is now free to be lifted up, turned sideways, and removed.
Watch for, an inventory, the shims that will be directly under the lower driven gear bearing. These must go back in if no changes or made to the gear pattern adjustments.
There is a vertical shaft spline coupler between the trans and lower unit shaft that can give you some trouble..... just wiggle the trans, and gravity should help this drop.


Removing lower unit:
The lower unit is held in place with 7 vertically positioned fasteners.
Four 3/8" cap screws going up into the Intermediate housing...... and three 5/16" cap screws going down into the lower unit housing.
Again, heat is your friend on the three that go down and thread into the lower unit. Apply heat to the lower unit housing where the thread inserts are before attempting to remove these.


Intermediate housing and suspension fork:
If removing the Intermediate housing, care must be used when removing both the hinge pin "keeper bolts" and the "Hinge Pins"...... and in removing the two water neck screws!
Apply heat to the two transom shield pin bosses ............ NOT the suspension fork.
The heat will expand the aluminum some, and help with corrosion, that will otherwise lock the keeper bolts and the pins up.
Likewise with heating the suspension fork prior to removing the two small water neck fitting screws. These can be particularly stubborn..... they are small, and are very easy to break off.

NOTE: the two suspension fork hinge pins are soft! DO NOT drive on them with anything harder than an Italian bread stick. (brass or aluminum punch ONLY)
You'll need to rotate the collar steering fork out of your way.
I'll usually drive one way, then the other. They can be removed from either direction.
If driving inwards, the collar steering fork/helmet must be rotated as to allow the pin to clear the fork.


Not sure how far you are going with this..... but if going inside of the transmission, I'll offer you a particularly important warning regarding the four Bearing Box clamping collar bolts. This would be for any Pre- A transmission...... 200, 250, 270, 275, 280, 285, 290, SP, etc.... any transmission with the steel bearing box and separate clamping collar!
These are of upmost importance when it comes to heating the main gear case thread inserts.


In as many years as I've been working on these drives, there are very few situations whereby I may chose to not use heat. Most all times, I will use heat!
If heat should prove to be unnecessary for you......, you're still ahead of the game.
All it takes is for one fastener to break, and you'll be wishing you had!




Hope that it all comes apart easily for you. :)


.
 
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Greetings all,

Newbie here but qualified mechanic. I have no water pick up from the lower unit and want to repair this. I've cleared the hoses between the pump and the housing and replaced the impeller. Now I'm looking at something inside the lower unit.

Can I just remove the lower leg to access the water connections and change out whatever is faulty, or do I need to pull the leg?

Any words of wisdom prior to me digging in to this?

Thanks in advance,

Tom
 
Tom, you need to start a new post about your specific topic. Not add on to the end of a different topic entirely. You will get far more answers with a new post.

And when you do, please list what drive you are working with. Chances are your issue may be just a bad rubber o ring at the neck that connects the hose from the transom to the leg. But we need to know what drive you have.
 
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Tom, Chris is correct..... it's always best to start a new thread instead of Hi-Jacking an old thread.

Click on the + post new thread button.
Enter your subject and then explain your issue in detail............ year, model number, etc.
 
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