Water pouring from bell housing 89' rinker 3.0ltr omc cobra

First off, not a marine tech so I guess its a bell housing. I posted the "no spark" a couple days ago. Again thanks for the quick and helpful responses. The Boat sat out one season before I got it. Now that it runs it takes about a minute before water starts to come out of the flywheel dust cover. The boat is leaning forward but I don't think this should matter. Hopefully the repair is not to extensive or expensive. I would appreciate any advice to help out.

Ayuh,... There's a Coreplug in the Block, behind the flywheel, under that cover...
It either Froze, 'n got pushed out, or it rotted out...
Either way, the motor's gota come Out to replace that $.50 piece....

Hopefully it rotted, not froze.

Nice!! So can I just get a really good bilge pump? Or full coverage insurance? So if it runs great do you think it just rotted out? How much would this repair cost? Should I try it myself?

You say you know cars.

First i would get a manual or d/l one for free, you will have a pm after i post this.You need 86' and newer.

The drive got to come off. If you have trouble post we reply.

Then all the wires on the motor got to come off, mark them where they go. Cables also. Remove the long hose that goes to the t-stat. I remove the end at the t-stat. That hose at the transom connection may also be the source of your water. You may want to make sure with a flashlight when running and water going to the drive, that hose is not crimped and not leaking at the inner transom.

The riser goes into a metal exhaust tube, you checked that also when running ?

The boots on the drive are good? The u-joint boot if tattered will let water via a weep hole into the bilge. But only when you on the water not on a trailer.

You need a 1/2 ton hoist or or method to pull the motor.You could leave the bell housing and just remove the motor. If you do it that way the flywheel cover got to come off, i snip the ear off.Then there are 6 screws. Maybe one blot that is also the main ground starboard side high. Clean that connection if you have to pull the motor.Then you need brass core plugs. I hope it's something that can be fixed while the motor is still in the boat.Check the bottom of the timing gear cover for rust, and the lip and the lip of the oil pan.

With the motor out you can change the starter or clean the starter wires.

Then you need 2 cans of spray black paint to paint the whole motor till you run out of paint. Paint everything.

Check the coupler, when it's out.

Check the stringer motor mount points.

I am of the opinion that you must run the motor on the trailer with water going to the drive
and make sure non of the above that can be fixed while the motor is still in the boat before pulling the motor.

Good luck!

bondo said:

Ayuh,... There's a Coreplug in the Block, behind the flywheel, under that cover...
It either Froze, 'n got pushed out, or it rotted out...
Either way, the motor's gota come Out to replace that $.50 piece....

Click to expand...

Well sir, Bulls eye! Removed dust cover and bingo! bondo! there it layed in the bellhousing un...fortunately. I really wanted you to be incorrect sir(no offense). However, you seem to know your stuff. Thanks for the post and the fast response. You have any other flaws with this make to look for? **

chiefalen Thanks for the quick response. I checked all alternative options you gave me but the core plug was laying in the bell housing when I pulled the dust cover. If you could forward me that free d/l page for the manual I would really appreciate it. Again thanks for the support and quick response I know you guys dont get compensated for it. Any money saved, will save me from the wifey, cause she has been against the whole boat idea from day one.It would be nice to show her our first boat could be fun and not a mistake.

yea that is bad news so here is the other shoe falling. The coreplug does not just fall out.

To me that block froze with water in it. Someone didn't drain it correct for the winter.

You have a pm.

chiefalen said:

yea that is bad news so here is the other shoe falling. The coreplug does not just fall out.

To me that block froze with water in it. Someone didn't drain it correct for the winter.

You have a pm.

Click to expand...

I hate to be a bother but I never did see a pm Even from the first post. Its not showing up on my page anyway.

Sorry it showed up.

chiefalen said:

yea that is bad news so here is the other shoe falling. The coreplug does not just fall out.

To me that block froze with water in it. Someone didn't drain it correct for the winter.

You have a pm.

Click to expand...

Agreed, I've seen them freeze up and pop the cast block (right facing the engine) and just push just a little on that big plug. This one appears to have froze a few times!

I have clean oil and good compression. I know that doesn't eliminate a cracked block but maybe not as bad of one. Would it not be worth trying to repair now? Marine cooling systems are at atmosphere pressure unlike a car right? So could you not repair the block if its cracked?

That my friend is a discussion that has been ongoing from the first day a block was discovered cracked.

Well sir, Bulls eye! Removed dust cover and bingo! bondo! there it layed in the bellhousing un...fortunately. I really wanted you to be incorrect sir(no offense).

Click to expand...

Ayuh,... Sorry 'bout that,...But if that's the Only problem, it could be worse....

So could you not repair the block if its cracked?

Click to expand...

That, depends on Where, 'n how Badly....

favorspics said:

I have clean oil and good compression. I know that doesn't eliminate a cracked block but maybe not as bad of one. Would it not be worth trying to repair now? Marine cooling systems are at atmosphere pressure unlike a car right? So could you not repair the block if its cracked?

Click to expand...

Check the port side of the engine with a flashlight and mirror. Look closely all along where the manifold, head and block meet up.

Look all along the block just above the oil pan just slightly above the drain cock.

You're looking for rust stains and/or evidence of repair material such as JB Weld.

The block may have cracked and been repaired in place.

Ether way the motor got to come out, thats when you inspect it with a magnifying glass.

The core plug is not a freeze plug, they are not there to save a block if it freezes.

Maybe you got lucky. Maybe not ,keep us posted on the outcome.

No water in the oil. Maybe you dodged a bullet if not all is not lost, you have a motor that is readily available, everywhere and a good running used one about 800.

Well the interior has been redone and all fiberglass seems to be good. I'm only in it $1600 so I think I could spend a little and still not lose. The only warning I keep getting locally is the driveshaft install. One guy said "no matter how you mark it its still gonna be a pain." I have the service manual but don't wanna have to take it somewhere half assembled. Urban legend??? Or fact ? Anymore precautions?

I have the service manual but don't wanna have to take it somewhere half assembled. Urban legend??? Or fact ?

Click to expand...

Ayuh,... Not sure exactly What yer askin', But,...
Anytime the motor is disturbed, the Motor, to gimbel bearing HAS to be checked for Alignment...
Actually, Checking the Alignment should be an Annual affair...

favorspics said:

Well the interior has been redone and all fiberglass seems to be good. I'm only in it $1600 so I think I could spend a little and still not lose. The only warning I keep getting locally is the driveshaft install. One guy said "no matter how you mark it its still gonna be a pain." I have the service manual but don't wanna have to take it somewhere half assembled. Urban legend??? Or fact ? Anymore precautions?

Click to expand...

Apparently you're taking the boat to a mechanic to install the core plug?

Don't bother putting the drive back on because it needs to come off to pull the engine.

You need an alignment tool to get the coupler/gimble lined up, the only "marks" you'll see is the coupler splines impression in the grease on the end of the alignment tool.

The bases of the last post was, should I try it to replace the coreplug myself? A lot of people locally have warned me about the driveshaft alignment if I do try it myself im Just concerned if they are right. In the case I do try it I don't want to have to take it half assembled to someone else. Sorry the last post was unclear.