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Exhaust elbow failure...water in engine

D

djlenny

Member
Some guidance here is required...

pulled plugs, water comes out...(salt)

Pulled one elbow, heavily rusted, put garden hose on it and observed a leak in the exhaust section.

What should i do to engine whilst i await new elbows.....i have cranked engine with plugs out and sprayed wd40
 
Did any water make it down into the crank case? If not then count your blessings. I was going to say do both elboes but then reread your post and see you are already doing that. I would also change the oil in her and the filter, just in case.
 
Hi MissNancy,

I am still not sure about water in the crankcase...oil appears to be clean and 'oily'. I have just ordered 4 elbows and will do them all together...hoping that they all come off as easy as the first one....I am in Australia so this order will take about 2 weeks to arrive so i have no way of protecting the already wet parts apart from keeping them sealed.....

Once i get all this done i will run engine (hopefully) drop the oil and recheck again...my concern is how effected the manifold is from exposure to some salt....i would prefer not to change the manifolds....it will blow the cost out by another ~$1500....

I did investigate a while back replacement Hi-tek stainless manifolds and elbows...~$5000 for both engines Vs $4000 for steel.....i have read some differing opinions on stainless (mainly to do with the two metals (block Vs stainless) heating up / cooling at different rates,....

such a drama, but that is how it goes with boats eh!!!

:)
 
These costs surprised me but then maybe it is because of where you are located. Since you are at it, it may pay to check your valves as well. When this happened to me it was sort of a domino effect in the cooling system between elbows, manifolds and rusted valves. If you can remove the valve covers and tap on the top of the stem they should just bounce right back. A few of mine stayed in like a nail in a piece of lumber
 
I am hoping to not take anything more apart, I have inox'd and oiled everything now and await the elbows and then will run and change the oil a few times....

fun weeks ahead....summer ends in 3 weeks!
 
You've done the intelligent thing. I'd duct tape the end of the manifold closed (to prevent rust) until you get the new El.

Jeff
 
I have liberally sprayed inside the manifold and 'sealed' with a soaked Inox rag...it will be interesting once i have all this back together where all the oil will go (up in smoke)...I will probably do some dry cranks with plugs out to evacuate all as much as possible and let the flame (spark) do the rest...
 
Uh-oh. You need to get the engine running as soon as possible. I know that will not be easy since you need to repair the exhaust system, but it must be done. Be sure to wheel her over a bunch to get the water out before starting it. And check the oil to see if water got in thee as well (past the rings).

Good luck!


Jeff
 
Just an addition to this, i am pretty sure that the exhausts are the original 12 year old. engines have low hours (not that that matters) and the person i purchased from, her husband had expired 2 years prior....

Process i am following;

1. heavily oil / spray through plug holes, crank to move out water / oil.....repeat 3-4 times
2. re-fit new elbows / new exhaust hoses (using fibreglass corners rather than cast)
3. no plugs, dry crank to move along excess 'stuff' from cylinders
4. fit plugs.....start...
5. bring up to temp.....check for leaks etc
6. cycle engine (hot / cold) twice...re-check tension on bolts etc...
7. drop oil
8. ~1 hour run
9. drop oil
10...back to summer...
 
Good plan. Be sure any old gasket flanges are PERFECTLY clean! I left some gasket material on one, once, and... You know.

Jeff
 
Thanks for the extra tip / info Jeff...

I am also planning on putting a thin spread of (perfect seal) gasket goop on all surfaces;

--------New Elbow(s)
Goop
--------Gasket
Goop
--------blocking plate
Goop
--------Gasket
Goop
--------MANIFOLD

Any suggestions on what to put around the trailing edge of the elbow, as part of fitting the new exhaust hoses on....or just keep it dry..?
 
For heaven's sake don't put any sealer on those hoses or you'll never get them off (in one piece).

Jeff

PS: IF your hoses are 3 inch, and IF you haven't bought them yet, you can buy 3 1/8 " oversize hoses. They go on easy, don't leak, and come off without destruction should you need to remove them.
 
I would change the oil before the engine is started. If there is water in the crank case and it has not been mixed up in the oil, it will not show on the stick. The oil level will just read higher on the stick.
 
Fair call, although i am unsure of the performance of the oil changer i have whilst the oil is cool....(Jabsco)...and it effectively never gets all the oil out in one go, in fact i think it will struggle with cold oil..
 
Fast Jeff is right about the 1/8 oversize hose, works great with a lot less fight. and I would try to do as dockside says as if you can get the water out first then you are less likely to do damage to internals. I dont know if you have such a thing down under, but here you used to be able to buy a dipstick oil warmer for wintertime. That would warm the oil up to make it easier to pump out without starting. Maybe check ebay or craigs list for one. Good luck and enjoy the rest of your weekend.
 
no sign of anything like that here....i will try the pump i have and see how it goes....wet exhaust hose are limited for choice here, so i will try my supplier and see what he has...expecting the par(tiara 31) not much room when you are 6"2'
 
Paul, THAT brings back some great memories too......Things like dip stick heaters and battery plate heaters are standard items in Northern VT, ME and NH. Had both in my 1974 FJ-40 Land Cruiser. Problem was after one of those -45 nights, I could start her up nicely, BUT ...Could NOT move the gear shifter. Does it get very cold in Australia? I think that dipstick heater is Still a good idea for times when the oil is cool and you just want to change it without running the engines up to temp. I have heard of some safety issues with them and now a days they probably cut the wattage as a result.
 
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My brother's old cab over Jeep was like that in cold weather. He'd leave it in first gear and "aim" it so he could get to work in the morning.

Jeff
 
The first thing is to get the water out of the cylinders if it got in I know the pros don't agree but manafolds or not I would pull the plug and the coil lead crank it over. Put the plugs back in and the coil lead back on and start it just for about 30 sec or less to burn out any water if you can stand the smoke id fog it at the same time heavly wd 40 oil evaporates like over night and oil floats on water saltwater and aluminium pistons don't get along makeing sure to get the water out of the cylinders is the main thing to do.
 
It's very dangerous running an inboard motor in the boat without manfolds on! I've done it, but only for a few seconds, and after taking all kinds of precautions. Running it THAT long would be really dangerous!

Jeff
 
I took a look in my old shield's catalog - no luck on the oversize hose for 4"ID.

If you need to replace the hose and the rest of the exhust system supports it, use the non-wire reinforced type for the runs off the elbows and then the wire reinforced type where you need to make any bends. The hose w/o the wire goes on and off so much easier.
 
Well, I concur with Mark....in fact it was our experience only by accident. When I replaced the elbows several seasons back, we went up to the 4" instead of the 3" and had to replace hoses. Those were of the same Mark said and the slip off so nicely....Very easy and so much different that struggling with the wire re-inforced hose.
 
UPDATE:

Managed to evacuate all / most of the oil before starting via the oil pan drain plug (Tiara) there was just enough room to fit a container underneath and reach under...

Refitted all elbows....

New hoses

pulled all plugs, pulled ECM cranked engine to remove any excess...

plug ECM, crank engine to flush with petrol...

replaced plugs....

started with some smoke and runs ok,,,,,,holds temp ok.....

BUT runs a little underpower compared to Port engine.....

So will have to chase down why the lack of horses.....and lower than normal oil pressure have run for 30 minutes and dropped oil again.....also now have a faulty alternator on one engine and broken alternator pulley tension strap on other...GREAT!

It was nice to get the boat going and underway, albeit for only 30 minutes..
 
I have discovered fresh water in the engine atop the cylinders. I have removed the water and convinced the risers/ exhaust elbows are bad. I have not discovered any water oil mixture on the dip stick and the level remains right. I am however adding a die to the coolant replacing the plugs running the engine to operating temperature. Once the engine has cooled I will take an inferred light and check the plugs to assure the water issue is not from the cooling system. I am wondering if this is over kill.
 
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