Re: What is the minimum needed to remove the inner and outer transom plates (shields)?
With the drive off and the engine out, remove the exhaust pipe from inner transom. Undo the tilt/trim hoses with a (7/16ths?) end wrench (don't lose the baby o rings). Remove two bolts from the water supply pipe and remove pipe. Undo the six nuts on the inside transom shield. Gently pry shield away from transom and set aside. Drive out studs with a brass hammer or wood block. That should free the outer gimbal housing from the boat so you can remove it.
When you reinstall, buy a new rubber foam gasket for the gimbal housing. Very important.
Rotten wood inside of a stringer does not mean the stringer needs to be repaired/replaced as long as the fiberglass covering it still has structural integrity.
To this day, builders of chop gun boats are still unclear on the concept. You will see boats with exposed wood stringers lightly tabbed to the hull. Scary. The glass is supposed to be doing the structural duty, not the wood. The wood is just the form around which the glass is laid. Fully encapsulating the wood with several heavy layers of roving is the way to build. If your boat shows any of the wood with little or no glass covering it, well, let's just hope it isn't that way. If possible to just cut the top off the stringer, dig out the soft wood and glass the top back on, I'd do that. Leave the wood out. If you can't get it out, let it dry for several weeks followed by a generous slosh of mixed epoxy resin thinned 50% with xylene. The wood will drink it up and will harden mushy wood when it sets up. You might be able to repair your transom with this method too.
You can use foam, plywood, cardboard, just about anything that's easy to form and fit to build structural members.
Manufacturers use 2 by wood because it is cheap and easy to work with and doesn't require highly skilled labor.
Last edited by o2batsea; 01-04-2011 at 02:52 PM.
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