MarineEngine.com - Your online store for all types of marine engines and boat parts.
PHONE ORDERS
Monday - Friday
9:00 AM - 5:00 PM EST
Click for TOLL-FREE Number
Online Checkout
Special $9.95 Flat Rate Shipping
(800) 209-9624 | Home | Contact | Shipping | Returns | Cart View your shopping cart.
Part Number Search
Shop by engine/drive part number.
Original & matching parts for sale.
Manuals & Accessories
Shop by description, item number
or manufacturer's model number.
Boat Repair Forum Boat Repair Forum   Boat Video Gallery Video Gallery
   
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 30 of 35
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Savannah, Ga
    Posts
    18

    Default Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    Sould I change the carb and gas pump, clean the tank and gas lines , change water seperater. Then try to start it. When I checked the dip stick, the oil seemed ok, but it had a gas smell to it. I pulled the gas pump off and openned it up, it looked fine. What would you do in my situation? thanks, Murf

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Jersey Shore
    Posts
    3,226

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    I would change the fuel pump, especially if you smell gas in the oil. Change the oil and drain the fuel tank. or hook the engine to a remote tank for the start up. The carb may spew gas when you try to start it from a stuck float. If this happens let it sit a little while, the fuel will loosen the float.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Manalapan, nj, usa
    Posts
    3,727

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    Is the oil level overly full ?????

    Perform a psi test of the pump. 4-7 psi no less no more.

    Check the filter at the fitting that enters the carb.

    Pull the fuel pickup tube and check the screen and and the anti-siphon valve.

    While the tank is open pump the tank dry with a cheap dc fuel pump.

    Me i would try to start the motor with a external tank of fresh fuel.

    Take off the spark arrester. Dribble a few drops of fuel into the carb. put water to the drive.And see if it starts.

    Doesn't start then it maybe, no spark to the plugs.

    Post back the result.

    You did check the drive oil ?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Manalapan, nj, usa
    Posts
    3,727

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    Heres a old post.

    start up boat sitting a while

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Savannah, Ga
    Posts
    18

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    Thanks Guy's, great advice, will do and let you know. thanks Murf

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Savannah, Ga
    Posts
    18

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    By the way Happy New Year to you all. Murf

  7. #7

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    Spinning the oil pump drive with a drill would be of major importance...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Savannah, Ga
    Posts
    18

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    Olds445,
    Spinning the oil pump drive with a drill would be of major importance... Sorry don't know what you mean? How do I do that?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Manalapan, nj, usa
    Posts
    3,727

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    pull the dist, and with a tool inserted into the oil pump hooked to a drill spins the oil pump.

    You could use a shaft from a old dist.

    What motor is this ?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Jersey Shore
    Posts
    3,226

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    I would not worry about spinning the oil pump.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Savannah, Ga
    Posts
    18

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    I don't what this means, how would I do that.? Sorry I see you answered that already.
    Last edited by murfjw; 01-02-2011 at 04:15 AM.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Savannah, Ga
    Posts
    18

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    Ok I understand now, very cleaver. But by doing this what does it do, or what is the advantage of doing this.? Is it to see if the pump is working? or to clean it out? Or tp get the oil out?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Savannah, Ga
    Posts
    18

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    The oil it was not overly full, but where it should be on the full mark. Tomorrow I will try the other on your list let you know.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Savannah, Ga
    Posts
    18

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    I tried to remove old oil from motor w/ hand pump fr Wal-Mart, it worked in the kitchen sink w/ a glass of water, but when I sent the tube down the dip stick it would not work, then I noticed the tube is on the outside of motor and I can see where it must stop, at the 90 degree fitting. I guess I need to look at bottom of oil pan for a plug and drain it that way. I did notice a bolt or plug at this 90 degree fitting. Not sure if it is a plug or what. Is this maybe the way to get the old oil out? Must be a better way?

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Manalapan, nj, usa
    Posts
    3,727

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    The oil is clear ? Not over the full mark ? Then you don't have to drain it. We can talk about draining it latter.

    The reason to spin the oil pump is to get oil up to the gallery and the bearings.

    If for sure it has only been 3 years sinse started no real need for the oil pump to spin.

    Check the oil in the drive.

    If you get it started make sure water is going to the drive. The impeller will last 5 seconds in the drive with no water to the drive.

    Understand ?

    5 seconds no more. Water must go to the drive !!!!

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Savannah, Ga
    Posts
    18

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    Oil looks very black, dirty, fills good in my fingers, but still has gas smell.
    Before I found this site. I was on my own, so I pulled off the Carb and Gas pump and water separator, separator was in the way. Then I was going to get a rebuilt carb and new gas pump. The reason I pulled the gas pump was because I smelt gas in the oil/ So I opened the gas pump and inspected the diagram and spring and that little port on the side. It all looked good, the spring was a pit rusty looking and dirty, so I cleaned that up, and cleaned up the little port on the side and blew in it to make sure it was clear.
    The carb looks good, the float sounds free. I purchased the project boat, 21ft Four Winns 1989, w/out a floor, the gas tank is exposed but all is hooked up.
    Purchase a new battery and ignition switch, (no key) w/ the carb and gas pump off and coil wire out of dist, I wanted to see if the motor was seized and if the outdrive went up and down and if the starter was good. So I cranked it. Only maybe a quarter turn. It moved well. Raised and lowed the drive a little. Steering also worked fine. I moved the drive from the outside left to right and watched the steering wheel turn. This mad me happy of course. I picked up some acetone to clean gas tank, once I pulled it out.
    Then I found this site and started posting and got all this great know how. So it seems like I jumped the gun by pulling off the carb and pump.
    So this is what Iím looking at today. An engine that cranks, a Drive that goes up & down & left to right while the steering wheel turns. Dirty, gassy oil in motor. A gas tank thatís easy to pull out for cleaning if needed. The old owner did say he added something to the gas before storage, to preserve the gas from whatever? I will pickup a cheap dc pump to remove gas first. Carb and Gas pump off.
    Found tag on outdrive, Name, Cobra on piston. Then on small tag on drive Mod# 985687, Eng 5.01, Ser# T0637366, Dist in front, Ford, 351.
    1. It seems like I should first remove old gassy oil from motor.
    2. Posted: Check the filter at the fitting that enters the carb.

    Pull the fuel pickup tube and check the screen and and the anti-siphon valve.

    While the tank is open pump the tank dry with a cheap dc fuel pump.

    3. Check drive oil. Not really sure how to do that. I think I should remove plug on the side of drive and stick finger in to see if oil is there when drive is in the down position?
    4.I guess I need to install new gaskets for carb and gas pump? Or can I just reinstall w/out new oneís?
    5. Once all that is done, I can use a remote gas tank w/ new gas to see if it starts. Take off the spark arrester. Dribble a few drops of fuel into the carb. put water to the drive.And see if it starts.


    6. Understand, water must go into outdrive when starting motor, not to kill water pump impeller. I have the ears for that operation and water near by from garden hose. I live in Savannah, Ga, so I donít really need to worry about freezing weather, (well maybe weĎll see).
    Sorry for such a long post, just wanted to give all details of where Iím at.
    I like that idea of how to turn oil pump. But as you said not needed.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Jersey Shore
    Posts
    3,226

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    Be careful which plug your remove from the outdrive to check the oil. The larger plug on the port side of the drive is not an oil plug. If you remove this one chances are you will not be able to reinstall it. It goes into the water passage and the threaded part that holds the plug will fall into the drive.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Jersey Shore
    Posts
    3,226

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    I would also remove the back cover on the outdrive and remove the water pump until you get the engine to fire off. You can run it for a few moments with out water then. One you get it started you can reinstall a new water pump impeller and water pump housing. Very Simple to do on the OMC.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Savannah, Ga
    Posts
    18

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    I thank you very much. Murf

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Savannah, Ga
    Posts
    18

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ACF3060.jpg 
Views:	42 
Size:	57.8 KB 
ID:	1518I see what you mean about the back cover and removing the water pump, thanks

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Jersey Shore
    Posts
    3,226

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    Is this your first boat? If so, I would look into converting the OMC drive to a Mercruiser Drive. There are not too many mechanics , at least here in Jersey, that will work on OMC. You can find someone who will work on it I'm sure, but do they actually understand they procedures involved in setting up the shift adjustments.

    Converting to a Mercruiser will make the boat reliable. You will spend more time using it and less time trying to find used parts to fix the drive.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Portland, Oregon,
    Posts
    7,434

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    Quote Originally Posted by Olds455 View Post
    Spinning the oil pump drive with a drill would be of major importance...
    Over-rated, in my opinion!
    Your engine will have lost no more oil at the crank/cam bearings, cam followers, etc........, than if it had been sitting for only a year. (nothing new here..... engines undergo this often!)
    During your initial cranking, oil pressure will build enough to replace this thin film, IMO.
    Cam followers may require more. Not a deal breaker!

    If up for the task of R & R'ing the ignition distributor, and re-indexing it correctly, it certainly would not hurt to prime the oil system.
    Necessary? NOT in my Opinion!
    I'd not do not do this if unfamiliar with the procedure!

    Quite frankly, I'd be more concerned about the cylinder walls after three years of sitting!
    Note: oiling cylinders on V engines may not be effective. Gravity!
    Oil followed by a blast of compressed air may be more effective!


    Quote Originally Posted by Docksidemarineservices View Post
    I would not worry about spinning the oil pump.
    + 1.

    Quote Originally Posted by Docksidemarineservices View Post
    Is this your first boat? If so, I would look into converting the OMC drive to a Mercruiser Drive. There are not too many mechanics , at least here in Jersey, that will work on OMC. You can find someone who will work on it I'm sure, but do they actually understand they procedures involved in setting up the shift adjustments.

    Converting to a Mercruiser will make the boat reliable. You will spend more time using it and less time trying to find used parts to fix the drive.
    Agree with the limited availability of good OMC mechanics. They do have their issues.
    (See Stuart Hasting's web site for many details)
    Again, my opinion only....... any of the Volvo Penta SX or DP-S drives (of the correct ratio) will also retrofit the Cobra.
    A kit is needed!
    With the V/P SX/DP-S, you get completely away from "Dog Clutch" gear engagement, and the ESA can be completely eliminated.
    The OMC ESA (interrupt and over-stroke switch) and related shift cable arrangement is one of the OMC Cobra issues in the first place.
    Personally, I'd first opt for the V/P conversion............ the Merc or SEI secondly!
    However, we're getting off track here with any suggestion like this......, at least until you confirm if the drive is either OK, or not OK!

    BTW, much of what may help you with the remaining fuel related question, will depend on the climate where this boat had been stored.
    If warm climate, the fuel will have had a lessor chance of surviving.
    If cold/cool climate, fuel can occasionally survive.
    Best bet..... do as others have suggested, and remove it completely!
    Begin fresh! New fuel, new filter, new fuel pump (if you suspect the diaphragm is bad).

    Good luck with it!

    .
    Rick ... aka Ricardo
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Savannah, Ga
    Posts
    18

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    First off, I would like to thank all of you for your options and expertise, and for giving your time to helping people like myself on this great site. Give me a motor and a driveshaft anytime. These outdrives may be a great thing for some, but us old folk, I’m just not sure. To me, the move moving parts you have, the more problems you have. Maybe Sailing is the answer or maybe a big ass electric motor to a driveshaft, something simple and reliable. So much for my two cents. Back to the real world, thanks again to all of you for your help, it’s priceless.

  24. #24
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    DC Burbs/Maryland Eastern Shore
    Posts
    818

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    I just read through this thread. I am assuming this is a boat you just bought or are considering buying. It appears that you have a Ford engine and a Cobra drive. I assume it is sea water cooled (no heat exchanger).
    The first thing you need is the official workshop manual for this drive/engine. Our hosts sell them and it is money well spent even if you never turn a wrench on the thing yourself.
    Next is a complete set of consumables. This is going to cost you some serious cash, but I think that the PO probably never did much to the boat and since it is now YOUR ass in the seat it is to your advantage to be sure the mechanics are in top order.
    You will need:
    All rubber parts to include hoses, belts, and impeller. Get a spare impeller to keep handy. Thermostat kit.
    All new AWAB hose clamps from Jamestown Distributors. Get T bolt clamps for the new exhaust hoses.
    Tune up parts; cap rotor points condensor wires plugs
    Oil and filters for engine. Straight 30 wt. Get drive oil as well. Get enough for two changes.

    The log style exhaust manifolds for the OMC are NLA. Aftermarket replacements are available, but pricey. Changing to a center rise style ( more available and cheaper ) is an option but requires some custom hose work to make it fit the Y pipe (ask me how I know) so check yours out.

    Chances are that the boat still has the original shift cable that goes to the drive from the bell crank. This is nothing short of a huge pain in the butt to replace, so do a sea trial to find out if it shifts OK. It may be why the PO put the boat up for sale. It is a fairly big job that entails removing the drive (might as well get used to doing that) so be ready for that. Parts fairly inexpensive, just a big laborious deal.

    That about covers it. Just the regular stuff like chasing away all the rust if any, checking all your wire connections and keeping batteries charged. Good luck and if you need anything just ask.
    Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Portland, Oregon,
    Posts
    7,434

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    In spite of his appearance,

    those are all great suggestions!

    (Where on earth did you find that picture???? LOL)
    Rick ... aka Ricardo
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

  26. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    , Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    292

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    Quote Originally Posted by Docksidemarineservices View Post
    Is this your first boat? If so, I would look into converting the OMC drive to a Mercruiser Drive. There are not too many mechanics , at least here in Jersey, that will work on OMC. You can find someone who will work on it I'm sure, but do they actually understand they procedures involved in setting up the shift adjustments.

    Converting to a Mercruiser will make the boat reliable. You will spend more time using it and less time trying to find used parts to fix the drive.
    What IS it with you guys and OMC? Re-powering the Boat will no doubt require a Transom job....which is stupid for a boat that old.

    My " ancient " 1965 OMC Drive works like a charm.

    Tell the Mechanics in Jersey to " get over it ", and do some actual work.

  27. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    , Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    292

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    << The log style exhaust manifolds for the OMC are NLA.>>

    Bull****, they are still out there. I found a BRAND NEW pair listed on E-Bay for $160.00

    << Chances are that the boat still has the original shift cable that goes to the drive from the bell crank.>>

    I still have the original 1967 Throttle Cable, and again, it works FINE.

  28. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Portland, Oregon,
    Posts
    7,434

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    Quote Originally Posted by corsair23 View Post
    What IS it with you guys and OMC? Re-powering the Boat will no doubt require a Transom job....
    Corsair, glad that your OMC Stringer Drive is perfectly functional. You are among the fortunate ones.
    Let's not forget why this company went bankrupt.

    For those with drives that are not...... the suggestion to convert is not all that uncommon, and is a great one!
    SEI or the Volvo........ Volvo gets you aways from the Dog Clutch!

    No transom modification required with the Cobra.
    Last edited by RicardoMarine; 01-06-2011 at 03:48 PM.
    Rick ... aka Ricardo
    Portland, Oregon
    28' SDN F/B w/ twin Volvo Penta 5.7L DP's

  29. #29
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    DC Burbs/Maryland Eastern Shore
    Posts
    818

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    Quote Originally Posted by corsair23 View Post
    << The log style exhaust manifolds for the OMC are NLA.>>

    Bull****, they are still out there. I found a BRAND NEW pair listed on E-Bay for $160.00
    Don't get your panties in a bunch. Maybe those are aftermarket. Genuine BRP/OMC log style hasn't been available for years and years, and the Ford ones are unobtanium.

    << Chances are that the boat still has the original shift cable that goes to the drive from the bell crank.>>

    I still have the original 1967 Throttle Cable, and again, it works FINE.
    You don't have a Cobra. I don't get your point anyway. Are you trying to say that he shouldn't check whether his shift cable is working properly? In case you missed it I am referring to the cable from the top of the engine that goes thru the hose and into the outdrive, not the one from the steering station.
    Last edited by o2batsea; 01-06-2011 at 04:06 PM.
    Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching

  30. #30
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    DC Burbs/Maryland Eastern Shore
    Posts
    818

    Default Re: Engine and boat in storage for three years.

    What IS it with you guys and OMC? Re-powering the Boat will no doubt require a Transom job....which is stupid for a boat that old.
    Mercruiser Alpha, Bravo, etc. and Cobra transom hole is the same. Volvo, Yamaha, BMW ditto. I think the reference was for replacing the drive, not the engine. Cobras are, to say the least, finicky about adjustment.
    Practicing the ancient art of ren-ching

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Boat storage
    By astro101 in forum Mercury Mariner Outboard Archive
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 10-24-2009, 02:13 PM
  2. Eska 75 hp 15 Years in storage What to do first
    By great_lakes in forum Eska Outboards
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 06-16-2009, 07:08 AM
  3. LM 318 in storage for five years
    By Jim Baker in forum Chrysler Inboard and Sterndrive Archive
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 09-25-2008, 10:43 AM
  4. Boat gas tank storage
    By jessica n in forum Miscellaneous marine engine topics
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 06-17-2008, 08:20 AM
  5. Evinrude 35 10 years in storage
    By billengelman in forum Outboard motors archive 2000-2004
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-22-2001, 09:13 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •