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1993 johnson 200 hp no spark

sycosam

Member
just bought a boat and the wireing was a mess i belive i have it all right at this point but this is my first boat ,,i need to diag. this no spark but first i belive i need to check for my power imputs to the control mod,,if i have this right the poer modual gets the power first with key on to the yellow/red wire and then it sends the power to the stator and timer base any one know if this is correct thanks
 
Re: 1993 johnson 200 no spark

No not quite.
You are right that the yellow/red wire is hot with 12v when the key is in the start position.

But.....the rest is wrong.

When the starter spins the engine over, the magnets in the flywheel rotating around the stator generate the voltages necessary to supply power to the power pack. The stator/flywheel provides power for the ignition system AND the power for the battery charging system.

To diagnose a no spark condition, the first step is to unplug the big red boat harness connector. Then, using a remote starter switch at the solenoid, crank the motor looking for spark to return. You can just jump the solenoid with a heavy wire if no remote starter switch is available.

Look at the troubleshooting steps on www.cdielectronics.com to get you started.


http://issuu.com/cdielectronics/docs/troubleshootingguide?mode=embed&layout=http%3A%2F%2Fskin.issuu.com%2Fv%2Fcolor%2Flayout.xml&backgroundColor=000000&showFlipBtn=true
 
Re: 1993 johnson 200 no spark

ok today i diconected the big red plug and tested for spark i had spark at cylinder 4 only before i went further i repaired the stop circuit and reinstalled red plug and still have spark on just the one cylinder 4 so i used my johnson manual and it says that the power pack is bad but when i ggot the boat after some one else took it all apart they gave me a spare power pack with it so i put it on and still spark only on num4 cylinder,, now the rpms are spining over 250 rpm i have a new battery 850 cca and a new starter on and a use rectifier because the old one was all melted,, is there someing taht can burn out the mod so that i only have spark on cylinder 4 or do you think the spare mod was defective in the same way also i shoud point out i did put a used stator on here to because the other one was all melted, and that all the mag on the flywheel are tight, is there any thing anyone can sugest .T>Y>p.s. other then a spelling teacher :)
 
Ok...all spark plugs out for the spark test, right? and when you say you have spark on #4, it is jumping a 7/16" gap? (Not just pulling the plug and grounding it to the block and watching...)

All plugs out gives the motor the highest turning speed > 250-300 rpm.

Pull the pack up and hang it off the back. Be sure to attach the ground back...I use the top stbd coil mounting screw for a good ground.

Disconnect the black/yellow kill wires at the pack.

Then, pull all those rubber plugs apart, reseating, and looking for corrosion or a pushed back pin. Look at the four wire plugs (from timer base), as well as the two wire plugs (from stator). Make sure all is right with the electrical connections in those plugs.

Possible pushed back pins would be the white wire on one side, and the black/white wire on the other side. (Not sure which side at the moment.)

Double check the single wire connectors too, while you are there.

You have a DVA meter? You might be headed for trying to take measurements if the wiring is OK.
 
well i had some of that right i did have all the plugs out, but i was grounding to the block. i also made sure the block was grounded good i pulled the power pack of all ready and the statot and timing base, think i had to pull timing base any way it would not move do to the leakage from the stator. if i should not ground the plugs to the block to test for the spark and i have know spark tester is there another way also the gap on the plug was .30. is that also wrong ? and yes i have a good meter from my car days,, and also t.Y for the help i will check all pins and so on tommrow getting dark here now
 
spend some time here reading up on the correct spark test method, and anything else you may be interested in. the answers are right here.

Spark testers are about 10 bucks at auto parts houses. Get an adjustable, set it for 7/16" and I bet you will not have spark on ANY cyl.

Sounds like serious TB and stator problems considering the melting you describe. The TB must rotate freely. The stator brown wires to the pack must put out over 150v, I like to see 190 - 200.

Be advised....you have a meter, but it must be a peak reading DVA meter, or have the adapter. Google DVA, esi and find one that way.

http://www.usatoolwarehouse.com/usatoolwarehouse/ESI-530-p-ESI05.html

A DVA peak reading meter is a different animal. You can use your regular meter for ohms testing, no problem.

Read this: http://www.themarinedoctor.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1206298793
 
ok great. i went out to the boat to get my meter it is a otc 3391 meter peak v it says is 250v max not sure if that is a dva like you list so i will study up tonight,so i will not be as uninformed next time also i will read proper spark testing tonight, so i can explain to my 24 year old boy[ that just got back from iraq 5 months ago and wanted to have this boat so we could go fishing] that the way i should him today to check spark today was incorect:) owe the used stator i got with the boat is nice and clean so i hope it is good ,and i did clean all the black gue of the block today wheer the timing base sits. and i bet you are right my spark will probley go away thanks again and i will try not to waste your time by not performing anything else wrong :) will post all results tommrow.
 
Yeah, the guy was an electronics guru....but the key is that you are trying to measure the peak voltage of a very quick, fast, short spike of voltage. This spike voltage repeats each time the plug fires. The DVA kinda stores up what it is seeing, and displays that peak voltage. Not your average voltmeter.

BUT....considering everything you have said..it looks like stator and TB time...so if you are buying anyway..just shotgun them, and if you need to measure voltages later, then get the DVA meter. That's what I would do. Considering the visual bad condition of the TB and stator.
 
well daselbee as you suspected there was no spark on cylinder 4 with spark tester it would not jump the 7/16, also i got the timer base in today so tomorrow i will install it along with ckeking all pins whill assembling i also picked up a dva meter today so i will have one just in case but i fell the timing base will fix it if it did not damage the power pack is that possible? and if it were to damage it is there a certine part of the pack that would be bad? and is there a test with pack of boat i can do to check? thanks again.
 
First thing to measure with your DVA is the output of the two brown pairs of wires coming from the stator to the powerpack. Refer to the CDI troubleshooting chart for the proper voltages. I think it should be over 200, but cannot remember right now. I think your stator is low on it's output voltages to the pack.
 
well but a new timer base it today along with the stator turned the key and it starts to turn of the engine and then the starter kicks outs .is this something you have run across on a engine that hasent run in a few years
 
posted the reply above just feed up was sure it was going to start,, and then something completly diferent, it seams like maybe it starts to start and then the starter kicks out, probley some kind of safty..not sure but i gusse what i need to do it start over from the begining,make sure i have my spark now on all cylinders and if so go to fuel
 
There is no safety that " kicks out " the starter.--------You could check for spark by turning the switch " on " and pulling the motor with a rope. All plugs out of course.
 
Are you saying there is no groove on the flywheel where you can pull it over with a piece of rope ????----------When it cranks over with the plugs out do you have spark that will jump a gap of 7/16" on all six.-------------With a timing light is the spark at the right time??-----Have you checked the flywheel key ???
 
yes there is no grove. and i need to start over like i said i but thge new staor and timer base in today before it just crank now it jumps to one side and the starter freewheels.. after i recheck everyting i will start a new post tommrow. thanks for trying i started with no spark but i am sure i have spark now but i will make sure i an over 250 rbms tom and but my spark tester in .this boat was just all taken abart when i got it so i could even have something crossed just got feeed up today figure fro sure i would start with new staor timing base powerpack all pins goood not pushed in.. i will let you no tommrow exatly what i have ty
 
I see no mention above of compression. It has been my experience on all of the V6 looper engines that if a low compression cylinder is encountered when cranking, the following normal high compression cylinder will cause the starter bendix drive to disengage. Curious as to what the compresion readings are.
 
If the engine fires off time, the starter will jump off the flywheel and do like you describe. (If it has NO LOAD, i.e. no plugs in it, the same thing will happen.) It is normal. However, you say you are trying to start it, so the plugs are in....

So, you had the flywheel off...first thing to check is make absolutely sure you have the flywheel back on and aligned with the key correctly. It is kinda hard to do with the magnets pulling on it. Look from the top to align as you lower the wheel. The flat of the key should be parallel to the centerline of the crankshaft. It most likely is parallel to the taper of the crankshaft right now. If not lined up with the centerline of the crank, make sure it is, and it will be a bit easier to put on. The requirement I just described regarding the key alignment is in every factory manual I have ever looked at. Then make sure the nut is torqued to 140 ft-lbs, cause if it pops, it could shear the flywheel key immediately.

Then, if the flywheel checks out, look at the orange wires from the pack to the coils. Make absolutely sure the orange/blue wires go to the top coils, the orange wires go to the middle coils, and the orange/green wires go to the bottom coils. Don't cross from side to side....(even tho the wires are not long enough to do that....) STBD wire to STBD coils, PORT wires to PORT coils.

Let us know what you find.
 
ty.. i will check flywheell position in the afternoon . athough i am pretty sure the key way is right i watch it as i lowered the pulley.. athough i did not tourq all the way incasr i had to take it off again and the coil wires of pack you are talking about right? because the two orange wires under back were pretty hard to tell apart the two to the bottom of stator.also compression was at 60 in one cylinder before i put new gasgets in now they are all right at 100. and cylinder walls look great not even a rign grove at top and cross hatch is still visable
 
The flywheel key positions the flywheel !------it is driven by the taper ( when properly torqued ) and not the key.--------If you left it " loose " then you have to check it again !!
 
in regards to the cranking problem,...i have found,that it is due to the gear reduction starter setups,..so,i put a cpl plugs back in 1 on each sd as i do compression ck,...cranks perfect....everytime.
 
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