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New motors

paw2000

Contributing Member
I have posted in the past I was getting 2 new motors for my 32ft Chris Craft commander. Well I finally got them to the point they can be run. I have been fortunate to have been able to get alot of new take off parts. This video is the port engine, the motor was first time run by me with water. It was cranked over with out plugs to prime the oil and fuel pump. I then started it without the impeller just in case, once I knew it would run, added water and replaced the impeller. Crank mount pump sure makes everything easier.

It sounds good, idles well, might have to adjust once in boat and in the water. After this first run I checked the water level in block, and ran for 20 minutes, came up to temp about 160 degrees. I have an infrared laser temp gun, water coming out was 90 degrees, block near heads was 155 degrees and heat exchanger was 130 near the thermostat hose. It has a 160 degree thermostat.

The motor is no longer a crusader, more of a hybrid/generic engine. The boat originally had crusader 270, this motor is 300hp rated. I'll post the video of the starboard engine when I get it done.
http://s765.photobucket.com/albums/...ion=view&current=newinboardfirststartup-1.mp4
 
The motors are flat tappet, they seemed to be correctly adjusted. The motors came out well, now when the engine covers are opened, no more rusting hulks.
 
Good job. Now you need to get them in the boat and go for a cruise. The water flow looks good but it is hard to tell what the volume is. This would be a good time to put a bucket under the exhaust and measure the flow rate. You will then have a good reference point. If you do it share the information with us. We could all use it.

Good luck with the installation.

Chuck Hanson
 
The flow rate in the video was low, it drained the bucket faster then the garden hose could keep up. I ran the motor late yesterday and moved the bucket under the exhaust hose, and the flow was better, the bucket still went down, but not as fast.

I'm going to have a crane company set the motors in, I'm going thru the engine compartment getting everything ready. I figure after the new year, I'll have them installed.
 
Flat tappets?? Better raise the RPMs when you start the other one up. If you wanna reference, just go to any cam maker's www site and look for their break-in procedure.

Another item you can consider - bypass and disconnect the engine mounted raw water pump. As you've found out, most hoses can't supply enough water for them. Just feed the hose's outlet into the hose that the pummp would feed. The engines won't make enough heat when under no load to worry about and you don't have to worry about burning the new impellers.
 
The camshafts were run in before I got the motors. The place I got them from had installed the basics and ran the motors, they had to make 1 motor reverse rotation and change out the timing chain to gears. What I did was completed the motors, attach the bellhousing, trans, manifolds, brackets and hoses. This was the first time I started the motor after assembling the accessories. I'm almost completed the second motor, I have to get the motor on another homemade cradle so I can finish up.

The motors came with lifting rings, but after the cooling systems was installed, they were in the way. I used straps to lift the motor, but when I install, I need something stronger. Does anyone know of a source of lifting rings, or possible a better way to lift the motors? Can they be lifted by the exhaust manifolds? I had used a chain and bolted to the sides of the heads, but the angle of the chain dented my valve covers. The heat exchanger is in the way, but I don't want to disassemble it.

this is what my old engines looked like http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx295/sammywell2009/00000000000000003-32c.jpg
I sold the starboard side engine as it still ran the port side was seized and its visible in the video background. If anyone is interested in the motor let me know, it has pretty much everything, intake manifold, heat exchanger, exhaust manifolds, non functioning carb (rochester) alternator, raw water pump (2 pumps) I'll give it away if they take everything. The block is rebuildable and I was told it was a 4 bolt main, but I haven't checked.
 
That's good with the cams...one less thing to worry about.

On the lifting eyes, I'd guess you didn't say the old ones? Concur that you don't wanna mess with the HX. Been a while since I've done any SBC but I'm pretty sure the ends of the heads have tapped holes you can use. Lots of times, it is easiest to remove the carbs for installation especially when the vertical clearance is limited. Also, a rope or come-along can be useful for tilting/leveling the assembly as it goes in (attached between the lifting arm and the gear). I'd suspect the exhaust manifolds would hold the weight ok, just not sure how well the flanges would tolerate any dynamic loads. Worse case, you can fab up a set of eyes, bolt them up for the install, and then remove them once the mounts are secure.
 
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