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1980 454 voltmeter question?

Pal said:
Boy, you guys are great! I feel like a sluggard but just can't do the diagnostics yet. I went today to get a new cast. This one is supposed to come off Jan 17th. Until then I am just doing little cleanups on the boat.
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Pal said:
One problem is if I use the hand/arm then the cast abrades the incisions, so I am in pain for a few days after. So. I will copy all this great stuff, apply it as soon as I can, and get back to you.* Really appreciate the thought you've given this. Pal
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Hi, Still all ****** up, but maybe moving forward. Just as the hand was healing I lost hearing in one ear and need MRI, blah blah, just hoping everything will straighten up soon. But I haven't disappeared. Thx, Pal
 
Pal said:



Hi, Still all ****** up, but maybe moving forward. Just as the hand was healing I lost hearing in one ear and need MRI, blah blah, just hoping everything will straighten up soon. But I haven't disappeared. Thx, Pal
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PAL,

Hope you get well soon. Wish you were closer, as I would be pleased to fix it for you. Boaters need to help other boaters where needed.

Pops
 
hello, Well I went out to the boat the other day and did some testing as you have all described. Long story shorter: I tested the current across the two poles on the in-dash volt meter and it was higher than 12 volts, more like 12.7, on my cheapy multi-tester. (But the in-panel volt meter still was reading low.) Then I hooked up a new volt gauge from Kragen's with two jump wires, and IT read "correctly at ~12 volts.
It just threw me off some that two volt meters in two dashes (flybridge and inside helm) were both reading low to the same amount. So, I'm thinking the in-dash voltage meters are both crusted up and not reading right. I think it's odd, but not impossible, that they both are similarly crusted up, on the flybridge and on the inside helm, and that's all there is to it.
am I being too optimistic? I haven't changed the m out yet. Any suggestions as to a good type of gauge to use? faria? Teleflex? Does it matter? Thanks, Pal
 
Pal said:
hello, Well I went out to the boat the other day and did some testing as you have all described. Long story shorter: I tested the current across the two poles on the in-dash volt meter and it was higher than 12 volts, more like 12.7, on my cheapy multi-tester. (But the in-panel volt meter still was reading low.) Then I hooked up a new volt gauge from Kragen's with two jump wires, and IT read "correctly at ~12 volts.
It just threw me off some that two volt meters in two dashes (flybridge and inside helm) were both reading low to the same amount. So, I'm thinking the in-dash voltage meters are both crusted up and not reading right. I think it's odd, but not impossible, that they both are similarly crusted up, on the flybridge and on the inside helm, and that's all there is to it.
am I being too optimistic? I haven't changed the m out yet. Any suggestions as to a good type of gauge to use? faria? Teleflex? Does it matter? Thanks, Pal
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Pal,

Glad it worked out for you and it's a cheap fix, just 2 std Volt Gauges. Yeah, chances of 2 going bad is usually pretty slim, but have seen stranger things happen. That's why I included all the trouble shooting scenerios. Eliminates "gut feelings" and pre-concieved notions of what is happening. Testing with a known "good standard" tells it like it really is and gives a clear path to remedy. Any of the mentioned gauges (along with a host of others) would work just fine. The only problem you will have is deciding what matches the existing the best (and maybe price/supplier). Overton's Marine is a good supplier with very good prices, as well as West Marine and Defender Marine are. Three of my favorite go-to places

If engine is running (and charging), voltage should be between 13.8 and 14.5 volts. 12.7 on a static (non charging) system is a bit low, but not bad if been sitting for a week or longer. If the 12.7 was with engine running, I would suspect charging system needs some attention, maybe dirty/loose terminals and/or connections. I would clean everything up and tighten properly, coat with a little grease to keep the green meanies away and retest.

Must assume the injury is doing better, glad to see that.

Pops
 
Thatnks for the scenarios, because you're right, you have to leave your guesses behind sometimes. I am not sure I'm quite out of the woods with it yet, because as you say 12.7 is not all that high. But it was on a non-started system like you say.

12.7 on a static (non charging) system is a bit low, but not bad if been sitting for a week or longer. (YES) If the 12.7 was with engine running, I would suspect charging system needs some attention, maybe dirty/loose terminals and/or connections. I would clean everything up and tighten properly, coat with a little grease to keep the green meanies away and retest.
 I will get to that clean up when I can. It is those green meanies, they are ALWAYS at work. They never rest. I suppose they should be an inspiration to us all. :) Pal
 
Well I did the switch, after a bit of fiddling, and now have the new volt gauge in the slot, and it works great. Even the light works (after grounding the body of the gauge-when all else fails read the directions). And it is seemingly accurate- it gives me around 13 when just sitting, but after charging for a little and when running gives around 14. It acts appropriately, which the other didn't. I think I see some new batteries in my future, but at least the gauge is right. I was just fooling around with an eight dollar Kragen's gauge for the lower helm, but for the flybridge I'll get a better one that is probably more weatherproof. They seem to run ~ 24-29$ for the standard 2" models.
I also put in a new switch for the "cabin pump" which I had broken taking the dash out :(
So, now I only have one fuse link to replace, the existing one feels a little too warm and has black/fried looking plastic, and cuts in and out with wiggling. It's a 30 amp with 12 gauge wire, for accesories. I have the parts. Then I can button up the dash and move to the water heater.
Thanks for your help. It's really cool to be able to discuss this stuff with someone. Pal
 
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Perfect..... The 13 volts sitting and 14 running are just what you are looking for as targets. Batteries / charging are good to go, for a while at least. Glad it all worked out for you.. Overtons, West Marine and a host of others have marine Voltmeters / gauges for around 30 clams. I would stay away from the cheapie gauges, if it was me. That was alot of crap you went through just to put an eight dollar auto gauge back in and rely upon it in the hostile marine enviroment. I wouldn't think it's life span would be that promising. I hate fuse links... Always swap out with regular fuses / breakers when I can. Don't like using crimp connectors in the marine enviroment, if I can help it, unless they have the glue in them that you use a heat gun to melt the goop and seal the connection (Green Meanies again). Don't need a soldering or heat gun when a fuse or breaker pops.

Now finish up and >>>>>GO BOATING<<<<<< I will, as soon as the 2-4 feet of snow and ice in my yard melts. ARGH
 
Yup, Go Boating is the plan for spring. We don't have snow here but it is windy and chilly, in the fifties. I guess for snow people that's summer! I'm going to put in a new element in the hot water heater (another thread: plumbing) and then pretty much "call it good" for my first season of boating. I am really excited.
Thanks for everyon'es help! Pal
 
Pal said:
Yup, Go Boating is the plan for spring. We don't have snow here but it is windy and chilly, in the fifties. I guess for snow people that's summer! I'm going to put in a new element in the hot water heater (another thread: plumbing) and then pretty much "call it good" for my first season of boating. I am really excited.
Thanks for everyon'es help! Pal
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HAHAHAHA....... 50's is beach weather..
 
HAHAHAHA....... 50's is beach weather

yeah I'm a wuss. I remember when I lived in the east and mid west, if it was over 32 degrees and the sun was out it was jackets off . (If you'd had a few brandys).

Now I'm a responsible old fellow. So 50 seems chilly. It's not a desirable trade-off at all.
 
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