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Neutral safety switch versus shift kill switch?

boat pieces repair 006.jpg
Ok, so here's a small enough picture of the mystery switch. It is the white tube, which you can see has two copper connectors sticking out. I have loosened it and turned it around here, normally the thing is screwed down at the top and bottom, with the wires connected to it.
 
boat pieces repair 006.jpg

ok there's no stoppin' me now! If you double click on this one, it will be the clearest of the three.
 
Pal, if you methodically and systematically use a good P of E (process of elimination) .... one item at a time, you will resolve this..... but not until you begin digging into it.
We could post back and forth another 35 posts or so, but I think that you need to roll your sleeves up, and get dirty here.... or, get someone with experience to give you a hand.
No offense!

And yes.... I'll second the idea of posting photos..... they can be very helpful!

BTW, any switch that kills the engine would be your engine kill lanyard device. Cheif spells this out in post # 3. You probably do not have this on a 1981 sedan f/b boat!

I agree with Mark in post # 5.

I don't believe that the 454 would not have made it out of the Searay factory with the Alpha drive.
More likely the TR or TRS .... seems like you have confirmed this.... correct?

With the TR or TRS drive, there will be no Shift Interrupt switch.
Even if......, it has zero to do with this neutral safety starter circuit issue!
Point being, don't confuse yourself between a "Shift Interrupt" and a "Neutral Safety" switch. These have two entirely different functions!

Here is a Morse Twin S throttle/shift unit. One of the better ones, I may add, and particularly for dual stations.
14819-1.jpg


Here is the Twin SR! Not quite as good, IMO....., but likely what Sea Ray used in 1981.
srtwin(2001).jpg


Typically, the single lever units do not work with dual station controls..... hence the Twin S or SR style w/ 33C cables.
Again, don't be confused when a replacement single lever control is suggested.... you want the Morse Twin S or SR, IMO.

BTW, short of something along the lines of Mathers controls, nothing is going to make the trans shift a whole lot better without new cables, and proper adjustment.... especially if you now have the Twin S.
Replace cables, lubricate, adjust!

Does the transmission shift lever look like this one?
Here's a link to KC Marine's web site who also specialize in the TR and TRS drives.
neutral.jpg



Pal, there is a man in Seattle Washington who specializes in the TR and TRS drives.
I don't know how to contact him, but have a friend who occasionally sells TR/TRS parts to him.
If you'd like, I can find out how to contact him.

Keep in mind that you can right click on any posted image to reveal "properties", copy/paste the URL between image tags (
), and the image will appear on your post.

You can also edit any unwanted text when you quote someone..... or better said, use only the text that is relative or important!
Makes is easier for us to read when only one point may be necessary!

Good luck on this! Hang in there..... you'll get it!
 
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I'm going to look harder at what is supposed to be the detent stiffness screw. See if I can figure how it could work.

The lubrication inside of the shifter assy. may be dried out. If you turn the detent screw keep track of the number of turns and their direction so you can put it back at the original position.
 
The lubrication inside of the shifter assy. may be dried out. If you turn the detent screw keep track of the number of turns and their direction so you can put it back at the original position.


Yes, did that.. Most of the grease looks good now, I'm thinkin old stiff cables..
 
I wrote this big old reply and now it's gone .. Anyway, thanks everyone. Conclusions: I have a TR, and Twin S controls, and I now have got it starting every time by disconnecting the NSS (x 2, which is odd).
 
With the TR or TRS drive, there will be no Shift Interrupt switch.
Even if......, it has zero to do with this neutral safety starter circuit issue!
Point being, don't confuse yourself between a "Shift Interrupt" and a "Neutral Safety" switch. These have two entirely different functions!

Here is a Morse Twin S throttle/shift unit. One of the better ones, I may add, and particularly for dual stations.
14819-1.jpg


nothing is going to make the trans shift a whole lot better without new cables, and proper adjustment.... especially if you now have the Twin S.
Replace cables, lubricate, adjust!

Pal, there is a man in Seattle Washington who specializes in the TR and TRS drives.
I don't know how to contact him, but have a friend who occasionally sells TR/TRS parts to him.
If you'd like, I can find out how to contact him. \

Keep in mind that you can right click on any posted image to reveal "properties", copy/paste the URL between image tags (
), and the image will appear on your post.

\Thanks for all the good stuff! I'll look at the sites and (trans lever next time out there). I would like the name or Email or site of a guy who knows a lot about TR set-ups. They seem pretty cool. Outdated, old, tired maybe, but still cool.. Thanks again, Pal
 
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Don't run the boat without the Neutral Safety working. You may be aware of it, but someone else may not and it could lead to an accident if it is bypassed. You have to get this working.
To my limited knowledge your shifters do not have the safety switch built into the controls, nor is there a kit from Teleflex to install on them. Only the SR has that. If there is some Sea Ray installed device and it is not functioning, then I don't know anything about it. If there is a neutral switch on the Velvet drive, which there should be, and it is not being used in favor of this other thing, then my advice is to use that switch and rewire your start circuit to incorporate it. It shouldn't be a big deal to run two pieces of wire from the transmission to the key switch.
Thing is, the shift lever operated switch will never be as good as one that is part of the transmission. The possibility for it to go haywire (as you are seeing) is far greater. The switch on the Velvet Drive is very simple and reliable and as long as you keep the connections clean and tight, will never give you any trouble.
 
Ooops, my bad. Looks like there is indeed a safety switch available from Teleflex that mounts on the shifter.
Found this on the .pdf for the Twin S shifter: Neutral Safety Switch #047307
Maybe that's what you need to replace.
 
If there is a neutral switch on the Velvet drive, which there should be, and it is not being used in favor of this other thing, (I think BOTH were active!)
then my advice is to use that switch and rewire your start circuit to incorporate it. It shouldn't be a big deal to run two pieces of wire from the transmission to the key switch. (I'd just buy another NSS like the "McGill" I disabled and hook it up the same way the original was..?)
Thing is, the shift lever operated switch will never be as good as one that is part of the transmission. The possibility for it to go haywire (as you are seeing) is far greater. The switch on the Velvet Drive is very simple and reliable and as long as you keep the connections clean and tight, will never give you any trouble. (And seems easier to find, too!)


Ok sounds like a sensible thing. Thanks for your research into it.. I KNOW it's a NSS on the trans, because it looks exactly like one in all the pictures. But I can't find a picture of the other switch anywhere (the one on the shifter that I sent to this thread). I wouldn't mind having a NSS somewhere if it would work.
 
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Found this on the .pdf for the Twin S shifter: Neutral Safety Switch #047307

Did you find a pic? I'm still searching for that using your info.. Thx, Pal
 
nss.jpgneutral safety switch 047307, this is it, and sadly it does not match what is in there. (Shown in my pictures above). Well, it is an old boat and probably has some odd parts on it. I guess?
 
Thanks for bearing up with a newbie. I have figured out some stuff. I have a 454/330, with a MercTrans II trans, and a TR outdrive, with a 19inch aluminum prop.
There were two NSSs. The NSSs are both disconnected, and next weekend I will get a decent picture of the NSS that I want to buy a replacement for and reconnect. That way I'll have one that works, which is good I think. Probably all that should be on there. Onward and upward, Pal
 
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